1.what do they do exacly?
2.can i remove them?
3.what will it do?

ive been thinking about cleaning up my engine bay so can a remove these and put plates over the holes? And if i do will it hurt my performance?

 

They are like secondary barrels in a carb,or V-tec on a Honda.

At lower engine speeds,the aux ports remain closed to keep the air flow moving and help the engine develop better torque with no bog when you floor it.When the engine RPMS get high enough and the primary and secondary ports are flowing at their maximum,the aux port actuators open the 2 auxilliary ports, which allows the engine to bring in even more air and make more power as it reaches the higher RPMS.
If you keep them open all the time,the ports will stall out when the engine is at lower RPMS and the throttle is mashed.Youll get a stumble or flatspot in the power.If you keep them shut all the time,then the engine will not make its maximum HP potential at high RPMS.

 

find my old past on the aquarium valve air pump mod. first clean those ports. take them out get rid of all the carbon put them back in hook everything up but the exhaust actuator. just do a search for my name and look for the 6th port airpump mod write up i did. works great you could also add the pineapple racing sleeves and that would it even better i need to go buy some after the holidays

 

try this link last page
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/air-pump-operated-gsl-se-6th-ports-how-do-i-do-253169/page2/

 

my air pump is disconected. My cats been cleared too. But the line is still good from it, but with the cat being gutted can it still produce the proper pressure to actuate them?

 

no they wont make the pressure that is needed to open them. a few options ,put your airpump back on and run them that way, 2 get a rpm switch and a small air pum that is activated by the switch, get a racing beat exhuast for the GSLSE, or remove the sleeves.

with that said im running a S4 intake 84 SE motor w/o sleeve and actuator holes pluged i didnt notice a difference on low end.

 

with that said im running a S4 intake 84 SE motor w/o sleeve and actuator holes pluged i didnt notice a difference on low end.[/QUOTE]

so i can run it w/o them and it might stumble? If thats all ill just remove them and turn my idle up until i get the cash to by a RB exhaust.

 

thats a cheap fix you can remove them but the idle really does suffer a lot. tried it for a day put them back in and did what i have now. with this set up if i am racing i can set them to be open all the time or if I'm doing low end stuff i can set them to be closed or even open when i want to say i want them to open early and close later like open at 3000 and close 10 sec after i let off the gas they do it just a little adjusting then can be set to do anything.

 

I use the valve to adjust them right?

And what about me removing my acv? Deosnt the air pump pump to it? So id have to leave the acv on for it to work.

 

Or could i just cut down the air pump hose, plug it with enough room to insert the fitting, and the remove the acv?

 

you might be able to do it like this not sure haven't heard of anyone trying it. but in theory it should work. i have all those emissions hooked up for now till i get my electronic actuators hooked next year. still working out bugs and the closing and open times are a pain. but if i want to run 250 bhp N/A thats what im going to have to do.

 

second thought you could get the s5 set up from a second gen to work they are all rpm controlled so have fun but dont block them off

 

Let's get get a few facts cleared up here. The aux ports start to open with 1.8 psi and should be fully open at 2.7 psi. Even with gutting the cat, they will still open up. This I know from experience.

The biggest advantage of the 6-port engines is thier lowend torque. Opening up the aux ports full time disables that benefit. Even with headers on my 2nd gen, my aux ports work with a simple plumbing trick I figured out that costs less that 10 bucks in materials to install.

The following link shows a pic of my solution for a problem that many seem to want to over complicate with air pumps, rpms switches, etc.. That simple copper tube works quite well and when the aux ports open up, it has the same feel as a the secondaries opening up on a 4 barrel carb.

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/6-port-gorus-help-404297/

 

i have a set of headers that are made like that Scott. i knew that thats what it was for but i thought that you needed back pressure.

thank you for clearing that up bc i was always under the impression that you had to have some kinda back pressure ie from the cat or RB presilence, to operate.

 

racing beat makes these headers also Mazdatrix sells them.