cpt_gloval

iTrader: (1)

just looking for some reference before i tackle the project.

lovintha7

search button works pretty good on the subject

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

I will be finishing mine up this weekend. I will post a how to thread with pics. Should be up by Sunday nite.

Felix Wankel

I have some old ones.

Dom_C

does any modification have to be done to do this? The oil cooler on my se is junk. i think the lines are also bad, will the lines from a second gen bolt up with no problems?

Slammed_GSL

iTrader: (14)

I used straping tape(metal banding with holes) to hang mine on the sway bar and used the lower holes on the rad to help keep it hanging straight. I am moving it due to a new cross member tube install and will put it there.

Kentetsu

Okay, but how about where the lines plug into the engine (assuming you have a beehive cooler to start with)???

64mgb

iTrader: (1)

I may be wrong, but I don't think you really want to mount it to the sway bar. The sway bar is an active part of the suspension...it can move and flex and twist. I would think that motion could be bad on the oil cooler connections, and I think the oil cooler may hinder the sway bar from doing it's job properly.

Just my $0.02.

Rich

woundup7

iTrader: (1)

I made some brackets that mate up with the holes on the side of the cooler. Then I bolted them threw the round sub frame connector/ support through the top of it. If you do it that way you have to hold the right side of the cooler tight to the right side rad support or you hoses will hit the battery box.
Its definately worth the effort. My last three FB coolers cracked on the lower boss, the FC has a much thicker boss, plus FB cooler are getting harder to find.

Slammed_GSL

iTrader: (14)

Here's the latest as of today.
The before with the FC cooler hanging on the sway bar and my bent front tube
I cut the bent crossmember off and prepped for fitting the new tube and tow bracket install.

Slammed_GSL

iTrader: (14)

Here are the brackets for hanging the cooler on the new tube.

Slammed_GSL

iTrader: (14)

And here are the brackets welded in place and primered.

Slammed_GSL

iTrader: (14)

This the test FC oil Cooler used for dry fitting, I cut a hole in the drivers side radiator support for the top oil line.

More after I paint and start making the lines.

I am using Aeroquip -10 AN fittings and hose

Rx7carl

Slammed, thats way too professional for the folks around here. My One question I have is will there be enough clearance for the upper hose to curve in a nice shallow radius? AN hoses dont like to be stressed at the connection to the fitting. It may develop a leak over time.

www.pbandjracing.com Theres some pics of how I did my FC cooler install.

Slammed_GSL

iTrader: (14)

Yeah I was watching that and if need be I can cut more sheet metal to the rear and swivel the fitting more to the rear and take more of the bend out. The Aeroquip hose seems to have about a 10inch radius without stressing. My next small challenge is to get the rear line around my R&P steering.

Slammed_GSL

iTrader: (14)

Well the paint is on and I'll finish the install of the cooler and my new 3 row rad.
Now I have to install the oil temp thermocouple, I hope that the sensor that is forward of the oil level sensor has the same thread count/pitch for the Autometer mount.
Anyway, I'm calling this portion of the thread done, I am considering fabbing up some of the brackets I used for others to do the same thing. Let me know if there is any interest.
$20 per pair +shipping. Primered and ready to weld or bolt on.
I can also make a kit for replacing the tube and adding a towhook point too, depending on interest.

mR.dnA

iTrader: (1)

Any pics of the completed project? Also - does this install allow for the a/c components to remain in stock position? If so, I'm definitely interested in the mounts!

Yeah, yeah, I know, but it's Southern California out here - GOTTA have a/c

pennyri

Here is another set of pics, used muffler clamps to do the mounting

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ght=oil+cooler

Matty's first 1st Gen

I did a fairly ghetto job, but it works get, have a look, i bolted it to the frame,

Slammed_GSL

iTrader: (14)

Sorry I removed the AC in this car so I cannot say for sure that the ac cooler will be a hinderance. These pics show the oil lines in place, the short one on the front is going to be shortened and rerouted for the altenator relocation kit I got from Blake. I used Aeroquip fittings and hose -an10 and the racing beat fittings to the block and cooler(4 total) Only use Aeroquip hose, I melted the fake non Aeroquip hose. Our engines run way hot.
Hope this helps
Lloyd

steve84GS TII

The swivel banjos and simpler mounts of the FC oil coolers means you can mount one in nearly any position or location.I MUCH prefer them over the 1st gen cooler.BTW,there are no differences between the TII and N/A 2nd gen coolers,so grab anyone you want when you hit the yards.Its sooo much easier to find a 2nd gen cooler than to search fruitlessly for that elusive SE oil cooler and then HOPE its not cracked!
Ive been making my own hoses for 10 years and its something Im quite proud of and not afraid to promote doing since I KNOW they wont fail.Being able to make your hoses means that you can mount the cooler(s) anywhere you want.It also means youll only spend about 10 bucks for the parts,making the entire switch to air/oil cooling very cost effective.
All you have to do it carfully cut a pair of slots in the factory hoses' crimps.I use a 4" grinder and work slowly so I dont damage the fittings inside.Its gonna smoke and stink badly,but if your careful,youll get the crimps off with no damage to the inner barb.Once the crimp and hose it removed,youll see the end fittings are just a run-o-the-mill barb underneath.Go find a bearing/hydraulic shop or tractor dealership and tell them you need some 1/2ID hose for routing oil.Figure about 250-300 PSI working pressure and 300-400 degree working temp.That MORE than double covers our operating parameters.At my local shop they call this "B" stock hose.Its a general purpose internal braided rubber hose.Its easy to cut and easy to bend around turns since its not steel braided or externally abrasive.Most shops wont crimp to the RX fittings since they are metric,but Ive had no problems at all just using regular hose clamps.Use 2 at each end and stagger the tightening screws at 90 degree angles to each other.I check them once in a while,but Ive never had to re-tighten them or had a hose slip or fail.
No "inside" pics,but heres where I mounted my FC oil cooler.Made some mounts up by the old radiator shroud and then made up some aluminum ducting to route air into the cooler.

Slammed_GSL

iTrader: (14)

Steve, thanks for that shot, I have been wondering how that oil cooler slot looked. When I first saw your ride I had to rethink my whole setup.
Very nice job.

mR.dnA

iTrader: (1)

It looks like on your car the cooler is mounted where the condenser used to be, so that location won't work for me - BUT I like the access holes through the side there; I hadn't thought about that until I saw it on your install. Looks good

cpt_gloval

iTrader: (1)

steve - that's your oil cooler? huge!

i ended up just buying a non-cracked SE cooler and stainless braided lines.

steve84GS TII

Heh,heh.....
No thats the intercooler.The main oil cooler is above that,behind that little slot in the header panel.Its a stock 2nd gen unit.
Ive also got a late 80's turbo 300ZX oil cooler in the left chin vent,helping out.Its a nice little unit with the same size lines and dimensions as the RX-7 coolers,except its about half the width,so itll mount almost anywhere.Look close and you can see it on the right.........