If so, what did you do about your idle?
Did you remove the vent and vacuum solenoids along with that chamber thing under the dynamic chamber?

 

yes,
yes,

removed all that ****.
idles around 700rpm..

a it of a bitch when it is really cold, but what healthy rotary isnt??

 

Mine is gone, way gone
Idle's fine, runs fine.
What I did at first was put a plastic bag over the one hose end to block off the air, then drove it around to simulate it being gone, I didn't notice much difference.,

 

Max, i would like to know how you routed everything after removing the "rats nest" on the gsl-se

next to the BACV thats all i have left is that ugly *** rats nest
heh

 

I cut all the wires that were no longer needed back to the firewall.
capped or welded shut any vac plugs, epoxy'd the hole in the intake tube.
pretty much everything is gone under there

 

wow i figure the thing wouldnt idle at all without the BAC... i mean that is what the ECU uses to control idle right??

 

From what I read it lets extra air in when you let off the throttle when the A/C is on, to keep the idle up.

 

so by removing the BACV you can take that rubber hose off the rubber intake pipe goingt o the DC and just cap em off?


another question
i see there is still one solenoid valve near the dizzy and i also see you have your vaccum lines off the dizzy

 

If you block off at the BAC and the intake tube you can leave open the ones on the plenum.
the remaining solenoid is for fuel pressure. and I run a locked dizzy.

 

So Max, did you have to advance your idle at all? I don't drive the 7 much during winter so I don't think cold starts will be a problem. Sp you completly blocked off the vent and vacuum solenoids? I will probably leave the green and orange solenoids just because i really don't want to **** with that stuff.

This is the plan:
Headers and pre silencer so the old **** is out. Run the return from the presilencer to the 5th and 6th ports. Take out ACV and air pump, cap off. Also that that big silencer is gone. The blue and grey soleniods on the fire wall will go and just direct line that vacumm hose. Take the BAC off along with the vent and vacumm solenoids associated with it. Also that chamber thing under the manafold that is in line. So you just capped the hoses no longer used or did you do something else?

I like you idea about just doing a temporary plug to test out the car. I will try that first, before proceeding.

Thanks

 

[QUOTE=Max7]
the remaining solenoid is for fuel pressure. QUOTE]


Why? this can also be removed.
Also, why are you retaining yor charcoal canister and bracket??? YOu can atleast switch to one from an FC they are about 2 pounds lighter.


here is a shitty picture of our GSL-Se's bay..

Yeah don't be critical, it still needs cleaned up alot. it is a race car, so we have other concerns than it looking perfect like Max's, WOW, that dynamic chamber looks gorgeous!!!


I still haven't swaped it to a locked dizzy. I have been experimenting in an NO2 ignition system using an S5 boost control solenoid (very quick, reliable) to turn the advance on and off. this way we can flip a switch and go to no advance, or whereever we set the timing... then flip it back off and have advance where we need it for standard advanced setting.

 

Dude, the stock charcoal canister and bracket doesnt even weigh 2 pounds....

 

yeah, I agree, Maybe i was getting a bit over zealous


the important thing is, it isn't needed, (unless he has to deal with emissions BS)
The dash-pot on the TB can go along with the secondary throttle plates.

I still think we should re-hash an FAQ of parts removal mods... I think it will alleviate alot of noob questions.

no offence to the new folks,

 

actually, i dare you

remove your charcoal canister, go drive your car for 20 mins, stop the car and hold a lighter to the open hardlines....

the charcoal canister is there for a reason, to keep EXPLOSIVE gasoline fumes out of your engine bay

those hardlines are a direct vent from your gas tank...

 

um

i have done it for years.

 

I did not touch my advance at all. I don't drive it at all in the winter, would be a real pita.
completely blocked it all off. I left the fuel solenoid cause that would effect idle.
I welded shut almost everything on the lower intake manifold, for the cold start assist and some vacs.

I retained the charcoal canister beacause its no biggy if its there. I've heard good and bad and just left it. painted it and its all good.

who needs block off plates when yah got a welder

 

you suck, i want a tig welder

my dad just bought a bad *** new miler wirefeed, supposidly it can be set up to weld alluminum, i just dont know exactly how...

 

looks really well done.