Anybody using holley blue pump with mallory 4309 regulator
05-29-09, 01:50 AM
#1
Anybody using holley blue pump with mallory 4309 regulator
Anybody? My fuel pump took a dump on me and for right now i'm thinking of using a carter 4594 pump and the mallory fpr. I plan to go full bridge later down the road and would like to know if the mallory fpr(4309) will work with a holley blue. The mallory says its good for 3-12 psi while the holley blue runs at 14psi. I will be running a return line. Will this work? Thanks guys.
05-29-09, 06:28 PM
#5
That's my setup. works fine. You cannot use the stock 12a return line as it's too small, so make sure you run at least -6AN a.k.a. 3/8" for feed and return. Stock feed is 3/8. unless it's a GSL-SE then you're lucky with 1/2" (-8AN) feed and 3/8" (-6AN)return.
05-30-09, 07:45 AM
#7
Make your own lines. It's not that hard since aluminum is soft. I buy a 25' roll from the local speed shop and use the old lines as a pattern. Cut the new line a little longer than needed, lay the old one out on the driveway, start at one end matching bend for bend.
You will need different hold downs for the line as the stock ones will crush the new AL fuel lines. Whoever sells you the tubing should carry the looped, rubber coated tie downs. You will also need a flareing tool to put a bulb flare at each end of the tube. Flare doesn't need to be very 'fat'. This will improve the seal and prevent the clamps from crushing the tubeing. I also have a tubeing bender but have found it's not really needed with practice.
I also strongly recommend using solid clamps instead of the worm drive clamps. I've found too many cheap worm drive clamps lately that chew up the rubber fuel line and strip thier threads.
You will need different hold downs for the line as the stock ones will crush the new AL fuel lines. Whoever sells you the tubing should carry the looped, rubber coated tie downs. You will also need a flareing tool to put a bulb flare at each end of the tube. Flare doesn't need to be very 'fat'. This will improve the seal and prevent the clamps from crushing the tubeing. I also have a tubeing bender but have found it's not really needed with practice.
I also strongly recommend using solid clamps instead of the worm drive clamps. I've found too many cheap worm drive clamps lately that chew up the rubber fuel line and strip thier threads.
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05-30-09, 05:55 PM
#10
Make your own lines. It's not that hard since aluminum is soft. I buy a 25' roll from the local speed shop and use the old lines as a pattern. Cut the new line a little longer than needed, lay the old one out on the driveway, start at one end matching bend for bend.
You will need different hold downs for the line as the stock ones will crush the new AL fuel lines. Whoever sells you the tubing should carry the looped, rubber coated tie downs. You will also need a flareing tool to put a bulb flare at each end of the tube. Flare doesn't need to be very 'fat'. This will improve the seal and prevent the clamps from crushing the tubeing. I also have a tubeing bender but have found it's not really needed with practice.
I also strongly recommend using solid clamps instead of the worm drive clamps. I've found too many cheap worm drive clamps lately that chew up the rubber fuel line and strip thier threads.
You will need different hold downs for the line as the stock ones will crush the new AL fuel lines. Whoever sells you the tubing should carry the looped, rubber coated tie downs. You will also need a flareing tool to put a bulb flare at each end of the tube. Flare doesn't need to be very 'fat'. This will improve the seal and prevent the clamps from crushing the tubeing. I also have a tubeing bender but have found it's not really needed with practice.
I also strongly recommend using solid clamps instead of the worm drive clamps. I've found too many cheap worm drive clamps lately that chew up the rubber fuel line and strip thier threads.
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