85 FB

Okay, the time has come to where I'll really be needing a new P/S pump. I've done some searching and came up with nothing useful. I have read into my Haynes manual but I would prefer it if I heard from anyone on this forum that has actually done an R&R with their P/S pump to give me any tips/hints/help.

Any help at all would be very appreciative. Plus, maybe someone can sum up the install.

Rx-7Doctor

iTrader: (13)

1st I have to ask, what is wrong with your pump? If it is leakage then I would check the pressure hose first.

Most of the 7's do not come with P/S so there probably isn't a good thread on this. I have only replaced the gear box and pressure hose on a Se. When I thought it was my pump I traced it to the pressure hose.

After checking and verifying that it is the pump, I would check out the FSM for this one. If you do the job, then you can be the 1st to do the play by play thread and we can have it archived.

85 FB

Well, it definitely is the P/S pump because it has been pointed out to me from the tech guys (RP Performance, a rotary and Miata shop) that it was making noise. Plus, I've poked my nose under the hood to check it as well, and to fill it with P/S fluid when it leaked out. Thing makes horrible noises, even when filled with fluid. And, sprays fluid like no one's business during high RPM. Should see that area of my engine bay, it's a mess!

Well, guess I will have to check out the FSM and my Haynes manual one more time, and once the time comes, maybe I will do a How To on it, who knows?

Oh, and I'll be replacing my hoses with it, too. Figured while I'm under there. Plus, it'll give me a chance to clean up that area, too, from all the fluid spray.

Rx-7Doctor

iTrader: (13)

It's probably making noise because it has air in the system from being too low on fluid at times. I would take some engine degreaser and clean the whole area around the pump. Then start the car and have someone turn the wheels lock to lock and visually inspect for where the fluid is actually coming from. Generally if the pump is leaking it usually will be dripping. If it is spraying then generally it is the pressure hose that is leaking. It is hard to see because of the design of the pump mounting.
Why am I steering you in this direction? Because I almost replaced my pump and decided to reverify my findings. Which were to find the pressure hose the culprit.

85 FB

Good point. That P/S pump is expensive. $210 including core charge, IIRC. Good point, I'll try that first, thanks.

jarath

I replaced my PS pump with a remanufactured one and not even 2 months later it stopped working at anything less than 2k RPM. Not so sure about these remanufactured pumps so do everything you can before going that route.

85 FB

Good point. If it means only shelling out $20 got both hoses, total, I'm up for that. However, I may just have the tech guys do the bleeding for me. Reading the Haynes manual and the FSM is giving me a headache. That's a lot of work, it seems, so I'd rather not screw it up and have someone who knows how to do it, do it.

PT Ray

Not really that much to change the pump. It has been over a year since replacing mine but will recall the process as best as I can remember. Once the belt is removed, there should be a hole in the pump pully to slide a screwdriver through to brake it, then you can remove the pully bolt. Once the bolt is off the pully should come off and allow access to the bolts securing the pump to the mounting bracket. Remove the bolts and hoses attached to the pump and it should come out. I think I removed some additional steering hoses to make removal easier.

The current pump (it looked like an aftermarket once I pulled it) was leaking from the oil seal and impossible to keep topped off. I got an original with 100k miles from another forum member as a replacement. Before pulling the old pump, I purchased a rebuild kit from Mazda for like $40 and rebuilt the donor pump. Once I got the replacement in, filled it up with fluid, cranked the car and worked the steering to extreme right and left several times and retopped. It's been working fine since and have not had to add any fluid in over a year.

85 FB

Cool, thanks. The Haynes manual says something about loosening the fittings before turning from lock to lock, and the many steps made it seem more like a hassle for a beginner.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Biggest hassle I've found with removing an FB ps pump is getting around and out past the mounting bracket. Other than that, PT Ray covered REMOVAL quite well. You will need to loosen the idler pulley for the belt. I usually do that after I have loosened the ps pulley.

85 FB

For the pulley removal, wouldn't it be best if I got a pulley-puller from an auto parts store?

And, if I did need a P/S pump, I'd be getting it from Olympus Import Parts. I don't trust Auto Zone anymore. Not after the hassle with my cluth master and slave cylinders. Went to Olympus, and their cylinders were both made by Tokico. Don't know who make their P/S pump but I'd rather trust theirs than Auto Zone's, that is, if it comes to needing a new pump.

As a few other members said, could just be air in the lines, so I'll try that, see if that don't save me $200.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Ps shaft is not a taper, it's geared. I haven't needed a puller.

85 FB

Okay, thanks. I just ask because PT Ray said that there is a hole in the pulley that you can stick a screwdriver in to break it loose, once the belt is off. Reading that, it made me wonder just how secure that pulley is if that's all it takes to remove it?

PT Ray

LOL but not at you, just got me tickled. Not "break" it loose, but to "brake" it as in keep it from turning so you can remove the pully nut. Once the nut is removed the pully should fall off. I guess it could be possible to be rusted on there but if the pump has been slinging fluid everwhere, don't see it happening.

Nicholas P.

iTrader: (1)

My powersteering pump made noise when my fluid was low "Hose had a pin hole in it that shot all over the bay".

but its fixed and filled back up, it works great now.



If your removing the power steering pump, unattach the hoses first. The whole pump is easy to take out but the 4 nuts are a pain.

85 FB

By a pain, would it be along the lines of oil cooler line on the front of the engine block pain? Y'know, extremely hard to get to.

PT Ray

NO! Done both, prefer to replace a steering pump hands down. Plan on disconnecting a few additonal steering hoses to allow clearance for removal of pump and that should really be it. The biggest pain is dropping the dough for a new pump, that will last longer than any aquired during installation.