Another Wheel well rust Thread. How to shape new replacement metal?
09-19-05, 05:38 PM
#1
Another Wheel well rust Thread. How to shape new replacement metal?
Hi again guys,
I know I am probally getting annoying with all my depressing threads about the cancer and stuff with my car... First off I know some of you guys will say there is a million threads on this subject and I agree it is true. But my question is how can I get an exact fit with a piece of metal to make the rust repairs actually look clean and professional. The problem is some of the rust seems to be in corners and stuff where its hard to get the sheetmetal to lay flush against good metal.
I have seen pictures of the final product but im curious as to the techniques to get there. Most of the posts I have read say "it took a long time but I got it done" and stuff along those lines there isn't really a good "how to replace you wheel wells" thread.
My second question is what is the best way to replace the outside wheel well lip. Mine is pretty torn up and I have know what to bend a piece of sheet metal perfectly to fit...
I know I am probally getting annoying with all my depressing threads about the cancer and stuff with my car... First off I know some of you guys will say there is a million threads on this subject and I agree it is true. But my question is how can I get an exact fit with a piece of metal to make the rust repairs actually look clean and professional. The problem is some of the rust seems to be in corners and stuff where its hard to get the sheetmetal to lay flush against good metal.
I have seen pictures of the final product but im curious as to the techniques to get there. Most of the posts I have read say "it took a long time but I got it done" and stuff along those lines there isn't really a good "how to replace you wheel wells" thread.
My second question is what is the best way to replace the outside wheel well lip. Mine is pretty torn up and I have know what to bend a piece of sheet metal perfectly to fit...
09-19-05, 07:06 PM
#2
When did mine I used these tools and only these tools: A bench vice, a ball peen hammer, an angle grinder, my welder.
In the wheel wells I wouldn't worry about getting an exact fit piece of metal. Just cut out all of the rust and make sure it is clean. Use a piece of paper to make a rough template on what size the sheet metal needs to be, including any bends or folds. Use your piece of paper and make a rough guess on how to cut out the flat patter. Trace around your piece of paper with a marker and transfer the pattern onto the sheet metal. Cut the sheet metal out with an angle grinder. Put the sheet metal in the vice and pound on it with the hammer to create any folds you need in the metal.
If you have rounded shapes that you are trying to create, you will have to find some type of round object to lay the sheet metal over so that you can "anvil" it out. My bench vice had a rounded portion on the back of it that worked very nicely. I just sort of layed the metal on it and pounded it out with the hammer until I got a nice round shape. You can play with the metal for quite a while. Continue to test fit the piece until you've got the shapes rounded out correctly. Once you get a pretty close fit, lay it in place and tack it down. If it your rounded shapes aren't quite right then you can tack it in one place first. Then push of the piece really hard until it hits flush with your next weld spot. Tack it there too then. After that you can sort of work your way around the patch. This is how I did mine and it turned out pretty good.
Keep in mind that all this applies to the wheel well cancer only. I'm not sure about re-creating fender flares....
In the wheel wells I wouldn't worry about getting an exact fit piece of metal. Just cut out all of the rust and make sure it is clean. Use a piece of paper to make a rough template on what size the sheet metal needs to be, including any bends or folds. Use your piece of paper and make a rough guess on how to cut out the flat patter. Trace around your piece of paper with a marker and transfer the pattern onto the sheet metal. Cut the sheet metal out with an angle grinder. Put the sheet metal in the vice and pound on it with the hammer to create any folds you need in the metal.
If you have rounded shapes that you are trying to create, you will have to find some type of round object to lay the sheet metal over so that you can "anvil" it out. My bench vice had a rounded portion on the back of it that worked very nicely. I just sort of layed the metal on it and pounded it out with the hammer until I got a nice round shape. You can play with the metal for quite a while. Continue to test fit the piece until you've got the shapes rounded out correctly. Once you get a pretty close fit, lay it in place and tack it down. If it your rounded shapes aren't quite right then you can tack it in one place first. Then push of the piece really hard until it hits flush with your next weld spot. Tack it there too then. After that you can sort of work your way around the patch. This is how I did mine and it turned out pretty good.
Keep in mind that all this applies to the wheel well cancer only. I'm not sure about re-creating fender flares....
09-19-05, 07:50 PM
#3
If your are looking to form new inner rear wheel well , there are some simple, easy methods to form that dish shape.
Cut the flat sheet into the approximate size you need, allowing and inch or so extra around the border. To form the bowl, get a coulple of those sand bags they sell to put in your car for winter traction, or take a pair of old jeans, sew up the legs and fill them with sand. This will give you a surface on which to hammer, allowing you to curve the metal. A large hide hammer, with a slightly curved face, and a strong arm that won't fatigue from constant swinging, will get you there. Work the curve gradually, in increments, across the entire piece and test fit along the way.
The fender lips can be made from flat stock, cut to width, the bent at 90*. Once you have the straight angle made, a steel hammer and anvil, even the one on a bench vise, will allow you to curve the angle into shape.
It takes practice and an understanding of how steel behaves when bent. You will probably have a few goes at it before you get the shape you want. Practice, observation and patience, you'll get there.
Cut the flat sheet into the approximate size you need, allowing and inch or so extra around the border. To form the bowl, get a coulple of those sand bags they sell to put in your car for winter traction, or take a pair of old jeans, sew up the legs and fill them with sand. This will give you a surface on which to hammer, allowing you to curve the metal. A large hide hammer, with a slightly curved face, and a strong arm that won't fatigue from constant swinging, will get you there. Work the curve gradually, in increments, across the entire piece and test fit along the way.
The fender lips can be made from flat stock, cut to width, the bent at 90*. Once you have the straight angle made, a steel hammer and anvil, even the one on a bench vise, will allow you to curve the angle into shape.
It takes practice and an understanding of how steel behaves when bent. You will probably have a few goes at it before you get the shape you want. Practice, observation and patience, you'll get there.
09-19-05, 08:07 PM
#4
Old [Sch|F]ool
I'm too lazy for all that. Plus that area is somewhat structural, after all.
I discovered that the outer edge of the 'well is almost the same diameter as a common 55 gallon drum, and those are in no short supply where I work.
Slice out the affected area (which is pretty much everything), weld in a chunk of drum, trim to fit, add grinder, paint, and sealant.
Then again, using the interior panels isn't much of an option on my car anymore
Best option is to locate a frontally wrecked car that has no bin rust. It's a heroic effort in some areas but it is doable. (Hell, *I* managed to find one)
I discovered that the outer edge of the 'well is almost the same diameter as a common 55 gallon drum, and those are in no short supply where I work.
Slice out the affected area (which is pretty much everything), weld in a chunk of drum, trim to fit, add grinder, paint, and sealant.
Then again, using the interior panels isn't much of an option on my car anymore
Best option is to locate a frontally wrecked car that has no bin rust. It's a heroic effort in some areas but it is doable. (Hell, *I* managed to find one)
