Another stupid question, 12a turbo questions.
08-19-14, 01:16 AM
#1
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Another stupid question, 12a turbo questions.
Alright. So what would it take to turbo my N/A 12a.
Now I have turboed engines in the past but I am new to rotary.
Will I have to pull the entire engine apart to replace the rotars with low compression rotors? Or will the stock ones work for lower boost levels.
Any idea on where to find a Pre built turbo kit?
And I imagine I will have to install a stand alone oiling system for the turbo.
Now I have turboed engines in the past but I am new to rotary.
Will I have to pull the entire engine apart to replace the rotars with low compression rotors? Or will the stock ones work for lower boost levels.
Any idea on where to find a Pre built turbo kit?
And I imagine I will have to install a stand alone oiling system for the turbo.
08-19-14, 02:19 PM
#2
Lolicon*** of RX-7 World
Search functions should help you out along with veiwing the first gen F.A.Q it has a section for turboing your first gen.
in general from what I know you can add turbo to your stock motor its easy you just have to build your own kit and get it tuned out perfect with a new fuel pump, ignition and timing
and im sure there are alot more things you can do to make it better but you should search that up the gurus of first gen turboing have tons of info and threads or find a build thread for one.
in general from what I know you can add turbo to your stock motor its easy you just have to build your own kit and get it tuned out perfect with a new fuel pump, ignition and timing
and im sure there are alot more things you can do to make it better but you should search that up the gurus of first gen turboing have tons of info and threads or find a build thread for one.
08-19-14, 05:34 PM
#3
What will it take? $$$! There is no kit. You have to build your own, and many parts need to be custom fabricated. There are three basic routes:
EFI: Much more expensive, more stuff to buy/make, more reliable, easier to tune, not as likely to grenade.
Blowthrough carb: Can be much cheaper than EFI but riskier, harder to tune, more mechanically complicated but not much electronics/wiring to deal with.
Drawthrough carb: cheapest option, but produces the least amount of power. You can't run much boost because you can't safely run an intercooler. Very risky if you don't keep the boost down.
Low comp 12at (factory turbo in Japan) rotors are hard to come by. If you manage to find a good matched set, go for it. Otherwise, just don't run ridiculous amounts of boost on the stock rotors.
The stock oil system is okay for boost, but cooling upgrades are recommended. Especially if you're running the 84-85 beehive.
In short, any route you take is going to be thousands of dollars and a lot of work.
EFI: Much more expensive, more stuff to buy/make, more reliable, easier to tune, not as likely to grenade.
Blowthrough carb: Can be much cheaper than EFI but riskier, harder to tune, more mechanically complicated but not much electronics/wiring to deal with.
Drawthrough carb: cheapest option, but produces the least amount of power. You can't run much boost because you can't safely run an intercooler. Very risky if you don't keep the boost down.
Low comp 12at (factory turbo in Japan) rotors are hard to come by. If you manage to find a good matched set, go for it. Otherwise, just don't run ridiculous amounts of boost on the stock rotors.
The stock oil system is okay for boost, but cooling upgrades are recommended. Especially if you're running the 84-85 beehive.
In short, any route you take is going to be thousands of dollars and a lot of work.
08-19-14, 08:01 PM
#4
research, money and time. there are plenty of 12A turbocharging threads that you can pick and choose from.
new to rotary is relevant, but only to a point. the same general principles apply. the intimate details are what you want, and honestly, if you pick a good thread and read it, most of those details will be outlined for you.
no. while low compression rotors exist, forget them! you're not likely to find them and they are honestly not needed.
without a time machine? no.
again, any decent 12A thread will give you a basic blueprint of how to handle issues like this.
Now I have turboed engines in the past but I am new to rotary.
Will I have to pull the entire engine apart to replace the rotars with low compression rotors? Or will the stock ones work for lower boost levels.
Any idea on where to find a Pre built turbo kit?
And I imagine I will have to install a stand alone oiling system for the turbo.
08-19-14, 08:26 PM
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research, money and time. there are plenty of 12A turbocharging threads that you can pick and choose from.
new to rotary is relevant, but only to a point. the same general principles apply. the intimate details are what you want, and honestly, if you pick a good thread and read it, most of those details will be outlined for you.
no. while low compression rotors exist, forget them! you're not likely to find them and they are honestly not needed.
without a time machine? no.
again, any decent 12A thread will give you a basic blueprint of how to handle issues like this.
new to rotary is relevant, but only to a point. the same general principles apply. the intimate details are what you want, and honestly, if you pick a good thread and read it, most of those details will be outlined for you.
no. while low compression rotors exist, forget them! you're not likely to find them and they are honestly not needed.
without a time machine? no.
again, any decent 12A thread will give you a basic blueprint of how to handle issues like this.
08-19-14, 08:29 PM
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What will it take? $$$! There is no kit. You have to build your own, and many parts need to be custom fabricated. There are three basic routes:
EFI: Much more expensive, more stuff to buy/make, more reliable, easier to tune, not as likely to grenade.
Blowthrough carb: Can be much cheaper than EFI but riskier, harder to tune, more mechanically complicated but not much electronics/wiring to deal with.
Drawthrough carb: cheapest option, but produces the least amount of power. You can't run much boost because you can't safely run an intercooler. Very risky if you don't keep the boost down.
Low comp 12at (factory turbo in Japan) rotors are hard to come by. If you manage to find a good matched set, go for it. Otherwise, just don't run ridiculous amounts of boost on the stock rotors.
The stock oil system is okay for boost, but cooling upgrades are recommended. Especially if you're running the 84-85 beehive.
In short, any route you take is going to be thousands of dollars and a lot of work.
EFI: Much more expensive, more stuff to buy/make, more reliable, easier to tune, not as likely to grenade.
Blowthrough carb: Can be much cheaper than EFI but riskier, harder to tune, more mechanically complicated but not much electronics/wiring to deal with.
Drawthrough carb: cheapest option, but produces the least amount of power. You can't run much boost because you can't safely run an intercooler. Very risky if you don't keep the boost down.
Low comp 12at (factory turbo in Japan) rotors are hard to come by. If you manage to find a good matched set, go for it. Otherwise, just don't run ridiculous amounts of boost on the stock rotors.
The stock oil system is okay for boost, but cooling upgrades are recommended. Especially if you're running the 84-85 beehive.
In short, any route you take is going to be thousands of dollars and a lot of work.
I didn't know about not being able to find rotars, Could have swore I saw them on racing beat.
I was thinking about somewhere in the range of 6-12 PSI of boost, You think that is too much for stock rotars? If memory serves me the Jap turbo models made 8?
08-19-14, 10:55 PM
#7
If you know about carbs, then you probably know how to turbo prep one. The stock carb isn't hard to seal up if you can find or make a hat to fit it.
Racing Beat does sell a set of 12a rotors... for over 2 grand. They don't remove any material from the face so I assume the compression ratio remains the same. That would be one expensive 12a!
I don't know what the 12at ran, but probably not much since they weren't intercooled. You should be fine at 8-10psi as long as the fuel is there and the timing isn't too advanced.
Racing Beat does sell a set of 12a rotors... for over 2 grand. They don't remove any material from the face so I assume the compression ratio remains the same. That would be one expensive 12a!
I don't know what the 12at ran, but probably not much since they weren't intercooled. You should be fine at 8-10psi as long as the fuel is there and the timing isn't too advanced.
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08-19-14, 11:16 PM
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If you know about carbs, then you probably know how to turbo prep one. The stock carb isn't hard to seal up if you can find or make a hat to fit it.
Racing Beat does sell a set of 12a rotors... for over 2 grand. They don't remove any material from the face so I assume the compression ratio remains the same. That would be one expensive 12a!
I don't know what the 12at ran, but probably not much since they weren't intercooled. You should be fine at 8-10psi as long as the fuel is there and the timing isn't too advanced.
Racing Beat does sell a set of 12a rotors... for over 2 grand. They don't remove any material from the face so I assume the compression ratio remains the same. That would be one expensive 12a!
I don't know what the 12at ran, but probably not much since they weren't intercooled. You should be fine at 8-10psi as long as the fuel is there and the timing isn't too advanced.
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