thirdtimesthecharm

I know, I know...... use the search tool and look in the FAQ. Well Ive spent quite a bit of time doing this and have come up with too many possible culprits for why my SE has mysteriously stopped running.

I bought the car a few days ago, it started and ran just fine except in the cold where it needed a jump. The day after I brought it home, it wont start even with a jump and good cranking speed. 80,000 mi on the motor.

Symptoms: Plugs do not get wet after starting attempts, severe blue corrosion on connection of center plug on the distributor cap. AFM condition unkown, coolant temp sensor functional two days ago-no reason for it to have come unplugged or malfunction.

Any ideas to help me narrow this mess down some?

Thanks
-John

Kentetsu

Start by putting the battery on a charger. Even jump starting will usually not work on a rotory once the battery is down on charge. Then hit all of the usual suspects for a tune-up. After that, wait for the Doc to get in...

Rx-7Doctor

iTrader: (13)

While you are doing what Kentetsu suggested. Here is some starting reading material for you.
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-archive-71/other-help-gslse-no-fuel-no-start-63411/

The above is a thread that is saved in the archive section of the forum.

After you get done with that if you have more questions feel free to post up.

thirdtimesthecharm

Thanks Doc that thread's just what I needed. Must've slipped through my fingers with the mountains of results I kept pulling in my searches.

Uh oh... it snowed quite a bit here when it stopped running so if my AFM door isn't sealing i probably fried my ECU... oh joy. I'll find out tomorrow morning when i check it out.

1badFB

iTrader: (1)

LOL, in the other thread the guy had a bad door seal, nothing to do with the AFM. Snow got in the car and filled up the floorpan with water..since the ECU is under the passangers foot area, the water fried the ECU, not the AFM.

If your AFM door is stuck open, just work it back and forth a couple of times and make sure it moves freely, if it doesnt its time for a new AFM...Dont worry about the ecu.

thirdtimesthecharm

wow...thanks thats a releif.

the way the thread was worded thats the idea i got from it through the fog of my noobness

Kentetsu

Okay, enough idle chit chat already. You have some major studying and homework to get done, and no TV until it's finished!

Rx-7Doctor

iTrader: (13)

John, thanks for taking the time to read that thread.
When you are cranking the engine do you see the tachometer moving?

Kentetsu

Are you thinking that the trailing ignition might be out Doc? I wasn't sure if the SE's had that same little safety item or not.

I was going to suggest testing for voltage at the pump, and then at the injectors when they should be firing. But I don't know. The last F.I. car I worked on was my last Z car about 10 years ago........

Rx-7Doctor

iTrader: (13)

Yep, that is what I'm hoping for. It's the same as the 84-85 carb'd 7's. The trailing ignitors are part of the fuel pump circuit. Extended cranking times can and will eventually knock out the trailing ignitors on those years.

Kentetsu

Knock them out, eh? I was not aware of that... But as long as I keep an eye on you, you can bet I'll be learning...

Rogue_Wulff

I didn't know that either. See Doc, you're teaching several of us, at the same time. Thanks!

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Knock them out eh? Is that a KO or a ten count, lol. Sorry, I just could not help myself, it's getting late.

thirdtimesthecharm

Great u guys are extremely helpful.

What the hell???? Turned it over to see if the tach was bouncing on startup on a 55degree day, and it only turned over one cycle before firing right up and running well. Another piece to the puzzle it would seem.

Are there any more reader friendly wiring diagrams of the ignition and fuel system out there other than the schematic from the FSM page? Ill decipher it if I must but... oh boy.

Thanks again
Off to NAPA!!!

Rx-7Doctor

iTrader: (13)

That is actually a good thing, meaning that you actually have a engine with good compression.

I would replace that bad dist cap and get another rotor at the same time.
Check and clean the connectors on the ignitors and the pitgtail that goes to them. Also clean and inspect all the connections at the coils.
The FSM is what you want to use, unfortunealty it takes awhile to understand how to read.
One thing to remember on the Se. In order for the cold start cam on the T/body to engage you must first depress the throttle all the way to the floor once before starting.

thirdtimesthecharm

Great I just picked up a can of electrical cleaner and a new fuel filter for good taste. Is the Airtex cap and rotor kit on rockauto any good?

As far as using the cold start assist, I had been doing the procedure, depressing the pedal when the key was on run before startup, and depressing it during startup, both to no avail.

Thanks for the support guys, you've given me a serious confidence boost. This site is proving to be an amazing recourse.

Kentetsu

Cold start assist? lol, that was the first thing I pulled out of the engine bay. Worthless in my opinion.

Congrats on the start man, glad you got her running. Do the fuel filter, cap and rotor, plugs if you need them (ngk), check the plug wires, and run a can of seafoam through the gas tank. After that, just enjoy.

Rx-7Doctor

iTrader: (13)

Kentetsu, what I termed as the cold start assist on the Se is the fast idle cam for startup that only works when you depress the throttle before start up. I used the term, "Cold start assist," for him to see if he was using the procedure. I should of used different terminolgy because of the cold start assist system that is used both on the carb and FI models.

Kentetsu

Ah, I forgot that we were dealing with an SE. Thanks Doc...

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

I've found on the FI systems that you should only depress the pedal once before cranking to set the cold start cam. Depressing the throttle a second time during cranking can upset the cam and the air fuel mix, making it even harder to start. A good, strong ignition and system components are critical for starting in cold weather. Any part that shows signs of corrosion should be cleaned, or preferably replaced as this reduces current flow.

bliffle

"One thing to remember on the Se. In order for the cold start cam on the T/body to engage you must first depress the throttle all the way to the floor once before starting.
__________________
RX7DOCTOR "

Is that before or after turning the key to 'run'?

Should one always do that before starting? Only when cold?

Does that affect the fast idle after startup?

Rx-7Doctor

iTrader: (13)

1). Does not matter, it is a mechanical function, not an electrical one.
2). I only perform the procedure when it is cold outside
3). Yes.