another chapter in the overheating saga
#126
Registered Piston Eater
Thread Starter
hmm, hold on......................................yep, without the tstat the water in the top of the rad gets mildly hot. but without the tstat, its not much warmer than it is with the car cooled off completely. this is so weird..........
#127
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Look, whichever side the temp pellet that works the spring is on is the side that needs to be sitting in the water pump. Drill a SMALL hole like I said eons before and you'll do yourself two favors. You'll allow water and AIR to pass, so you can top it correctly when refilling, and you'll get some of that hot water trapped on the engine side a chance to get to the thermal pellet to start opening it regardless of how it's installed....
Does ANYONE have a pic to help the lad??
Does ANYONE have a pic to help the lad??
#129
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Did you read that nonsense about pulling the stat to fill the engine correctly? That ain't normal...this is an old hot-rodder trick from an old dawg...I pass it on to the next generation before I pass away....in dog years, I'm already dead...
And, remember, I said SMALL! Air is the main thing you want to pass unabated through that hole,,,and deburr the sucker and wash it thoroughly after the drilling is done...
And, remember, I said SMALL! Air is the main thing you want to pass unabated through that hole,,,and deburr the sucker and wash it thoroughly after the drilling is done...
Last edited by mar3; 09-16-03 at 07:39 PM.
#130
Registered Piston Eater
Thread Starter
if air is the only thing i want to pass through then how does that help my non-opening tstat problem? In stock form it shouldnt have this problem so what is stopping the tstat water from heating up? also, any ideas why its only taking 1.5 gallons? you sure do like to use that one smiley with the sunglasses alot dont u,lol.
#131
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Originally posted by mar3
Look, whichever side the temp pellet that works the spring is on is the side that needs to be sitting in the water pump. Drill a SMALL hole like I said eons before and you'll do yourself two favors. You'll allow water and AIR to pass, so you can top it correctly when refilling, and you'll get some of that hot water trapped on the engine side a chance to get to the thermal pellet to start opening it regardless of how it's installed....
Does ANYONE have a pic to help the lad??
Look, whichever side the temp pellet that works the spring is on is the side that needs to be sitting in the water pump. Drill a SMALL hole like I said eons before and you'll do yourself two favors. You'll allow water and AIR to pass, so you can top it correctly when refilling, and you'll get some of that hot water trapped on the engine side a chance to get to the thermal pellet to start opening it regardless of how it's installed....
Does ANYONE have a pic to help the lad??
Where? the flange?
B
#132
Airflow is my life
Ok, lets try a new (not really) idea. Teh car runs cool w/o a t stat. It shouldnt cause of teh bypass being open, but it does. With the tstat in it runs too hot. get a new tstat before you cook the motor! $3 is cheaper than a rebuild. Try it. I run a 180* tstat from autozone, works fine for me. Maybe you got a bum one, even if it passes the boiling pot-o-water test.
#133
Blood, Sweat and Rotors
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as for thermostats i'd only reccomend the factory MAZDA thermostat. Seen and hear others talk of issues with auto parts stores thermostats occasionally.
don't cook the motor, please. one bake is all it takes to ruin it. the water seals dry out and begin to fail when they're baked.
i never found a need to drill a small hole in a thermostat. just keep filling her up until she's topped up.
otherwise for goodness sakes just remove the thermostat, pull the water pump housing off and tap and plug the bypass hole with a 1/2" NPT plug and loctite and be done with it so we can archive this thread!!
don't cook the motor, please. one bake is all it takes to ruin it. the water seals dry out and begin to fail when they're baked.
i never found a need to drill a small hole in a thermostat. just keep filling her up until she's topped up.
otherwise for goodness sakes just remove the thermostat, pull the water pump housing off and tap and plug the bypass hole with a 1/2" NPT plug and loctite and be done with it so we can archive this thread!!
#134
I read your email
Originally posted by DriveFast7
..... so we can archive this thread!!
..... so we can archive this thread!!
#135
Registered Piston Eater
Thread Starter
Teh car runs cool w/o a t stat. It shouldnt cause of teh bypass being open, but it does.
#136
Tennis, anyone
Go to your autozone, buy one more thermostat, install it
correctly, fill the system with water only and if the engine still has a problem and starts to overheat, turn it off and pull the thermostat and throw it across the street and run the engine without it. Moroso sells water restricters that go where the thermostat goes.
I used to use those in my shelby mustang for years. The 'kit' comes with 3 different sizes each size maintains a certain water temp. Anti-freeze will not hurt them either. You've flushed that engine enough that it should
flow like the mississippi river.
correctly, fill the system with water only and if the engine still has a problem and starts to overheat, turn it off and pull the thermostat and throw it across the street and run the engine without it. Moroso sells water restricters that go where the thermostat goes.
I used to use those in my shelby mustang for years. The 'kit' comes with 3 different sizes each size maintains a certain water temp. Anti-freeze will not hurt them either. You've flushed that engine enough that it should
flow like the mississippi river.
#137
Registered Piston Eater
Thread Starter
i know that even if i get another tsat it wont change anything so why dont i just save some money and throw one of the two that i have now across the street . the problem is not the tstat itself, the problem is that when the tstat is installed, the coolant in that area doesnt get hot enough for it to open. The tstat is uninstalled now so i can drive it like it is, but something had to have happened to cause this because it didnt do this before. does anyone have any idea at all what might be causing that coolant to not heat up? is there any disadvantage to running without the tstat? if it runs TOO cool wont the gas milege suffer? even tho i can drive it now i would really like to know what is causing that problem.
#139
Registered Piston Eater
Thread Starter
alright, ill do that. that will be the 3rd new tstat . what if it doesnt change anything? BTW I really appreciate all you guys helping me out with this annoying/lengthy/confusing problem. I know some of you if not all have gotten annoyed with me after 6 pages of this, and I just want you all to know that I'm really thankful for the help.
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