the water pump is brand spankin new, just put it in. i know the rad hoses are good and i replaced the small heater hose by the bottom of the rad on the passenger side. i just have to check the hoses in the back. ill do that tommorrow.

 

have you checked the dreaded orings on the intake?

 

Guys, hes not losing coolant. B, is the fan shroud still on? Will it run at a good temp if you start it and just let it sit in the driveway? Your radiator may still be the culprit. Also its hard to see bad rad hoses (they can collapse at high rmps, restricting flow). To help you narrow this down you need to define the problem. Is it when sitting still only? Moving? Moving at speeds above 40, all the time no matter what?

 

All the time carl...

 

That rules out the fan/shroud, and rad hoses. I dont think the oil cooler even if it was marginal would cause overheating just sitting parked.

 

PPPSSSSSSS !! ( hey carl , i think the kids fucked !.... lower,,,, we don't want him to hear the bad news )

Oh !! aahhh, did you check ???? some, other **** ?

I'm not an expert here, but theres only so much one can do, untill it boils down to rebuild. Without spending money keeping that engine barely running.maybe focus on another engine sooner then you planned .

 

When you flush out the engine be sure to do it properly, ie: back-flushed. Spring for the cash to have it done by a reputable shop if necessary. If it wasn't done properly the first time that could be the problem.

 

ok going from when i ran it last night, i let it sit idling for a while and it stayed fairly steady around halfway or a little more. then i went to get gas and it moved up to 3/4s and stayed there. when i got home i didnt think to sit to see if it went down so i just shut it off. why would i need a rebuild if im not losing coolant?

 

Mark, your right, there may be no hope, but I dont think its time to give up based on his observastions. It still may turn out to be fixable.

7, start the car, leave it sitting idling and monitor the temp gauge. Have a water hose handy. If she starts getting hot, hose down the radiator. See if that helps. I still say your rad may be bad.

To me, it sounds like it cant shed heat, which leads me to believe that the rad may be the problem.

 

alright rx7carl, ill try that tommorow. i took it to a shop and they "boiled" it. im assuming they but water or some cleaning agent and heat it up to burn off any deposits that would be clogging it...is that what they do? when i picked it up i looked in the inlet & oulet, and the inside looked ALOT cleaner, so hopefully the core is just as clean. ill still try your experiment tommorow, but shouldnt it make it cooler even if the rad is good, as long as coolant is getting circulated through the system? say the radiator is perfect but the coolant passages are PARTIALLY clogged, still allowing circulation. when the car is running if you spray water on the radiator it will help that small amount that is getting circulated cool faster so the temp would drop even if the radiator is fine.

 

With the work you've done, and the parts you've replaced, you should have MAD circulation. If you don't
guess what ??? the only way is to tear down, clean, rebuild, but try flushing again. what temp is the thermostat ?? In my -SE, when i got it, it didn't have one
so i installed a 190' degree. my temp guage goes from 1/4 to 1/2 and thats it,, sitting , doing 100 mph ,even with the A/C on. My GS goes to 1/4 and stays there all day long, with or without the A/C, sitting , doing 100 mph , but the GS cooling system is straight anti-freeze
and one bottle of water-wetter,, no water added, and a 17' inch hayden semi-flex fan with no clutch, inside the fan shroud. My oil cooler is under the radiator too. The -SE oil cooler is in it's stock position. but thats me. If the wrong temp thermostat is in the ECU with get the wrong signals and everything goes screwey, so thats important !! to remember.

 

antifreeze isnt very good at cooling, its purpose is to stop the water from boiling and freezing, the water does most of the cooling. so in your GS the redline stuff is what keeps the engine cool. how much is in one bottle?

sometime soon im gonna drain the system (again ), and do a high quality flush. if i fill the engine with liquid engine degreaser and let it sit overnight and then flush it out would that work assuming there is some blockage in teh coolant passages?

oh yea, i have a 180' tstat

 

When I replaced the rad in my car with a NEW autoparts store rad, my temps dropped alot. From 1/2 on teh gauge to 1/4-1/3. Really stupid question, are the fins clean on the rad? Yes B, water is a better heat transfer agent than antifreeze. I run 75/25 mix here in fla.

Dont fill the block with anything that isint designed for cooling systems or you might end up wiping out the motor, due to ruining the water jacket seals.

 

that seems like the fan/shroud to me.... anyone else?

 

See if your heater is cloged. I guess, i'm running out of ideas,,,,guys . .357 magnum, Colt python, that thing !! ..IMO sorry _7

 

To check the fan clutch to see if it is bad, all you need to do is put your hand in the fan while the car is on. If the fan is bad it will stop, if not you will just need a few bandages.

 

my car used to overheat and I put a new radiator and new fan clutch on and it fixed it. I alway run in the 1/3 heat range.
I also have a cool air system and I use distilled water 80% and 20% antifreeze. distilled water is supposed to run cooler because of the lack of minerals and it is much less corrosive

 

1) what could i use to flush my engine that would do the job?

2) To help I could run a 75/25 mix since summer is over.

3)I think im gonna look for an electric fan to install at at the local junkyard. I know I should use one from a v6 or v8 but is there any car's fan that fits nice to the FB rad?

4) When the heater is on, does the coolant HAVE to flow throught the heater or does it leave the other way open? because i had my heat on yesterday so if the heater is the only way for it to go through when its on maybe it is clogged. i could try with it off and see what happens.

 

A bad vac leak can cause a very lean condition. There hasn't been any mention of how your car idles or runs, however, if you've compensated for a vac leak by tweeking your idle, you could be running in a very lean state - this will and does cause over heating. Vac leaks (lean condition) are one of the top reasons that these cars have overheated over time (and in many cases, the last thing anyone looks for) - just a thought.

 

Vac leaks can also cause an over heating problem. There has been no mention of idle problems or any tweeking you may have done to compensate for a vac leak, however, if you are running very lean due to a leak, you will over heat. This is one of the top reasons these cars have over heated through the years - and in many cases, the last thing any one looks at. Just a thought that may be worth investigating.

 

my acv blockoff plate isnt 100% sealed and the fuel in the sight glass towards the firewall is way below halfway. the one in front is at the half mark tho. i removed the rats nest so no leaks there. it does idle a little bit high. could running lean cause overheating even when its just idleing?

 

Yes -
Why are you allowing known vac leaks? Fix the block off plate. Just becuase you've removed the rats nest doesn't mean you've eliminated leaks - check all the line you've plugged off (those into the carb)

 

ok ill fix the block off plate and check the other stuff today. but why does it cause overheating when idling. i know running lean means more air gets compressed for a given amount of fuel used so more heat is created. so maybe when idleing creates the heat a normal engine makes at 2500 rpm in neutral. but a good cooling system should still keep the engine from overheating well over 2500 rpm....? is it because when idleing the water pump isnt spinning as fast so the coolant isnt getting circulated as quick as at a faster rpm?

 

If its still overheating when cruising above 40mph, then its not the fan. Hey B, you still have the undertray pan installed right? The metal pan that covers the bottom front of the engine compartment.

 

Because the cars not moving and you are relying a lot more on only the fan - that, and as you mentioned, the fan/pump are running alot slower. fix all the vac leaks and check all your vac lines or plugs (try carb cleaner on the lines). This may not help but based on the fact that you know you have at least one bad leak, it may solve the problem or at least diminish it. Also, if you are running an advance on your timing, set it back to stock at least until you've fixed this problem.