So I'm driving the car today, and because I'm trying to sort out an idle problem, I have the choke slightly out so it will idle at 2k rpm. Mind you, Sterling carb so choke flaps are removed, so thec choke only controls the throttle position. Since the connection to the water temp sensor broke long ago, I have it so the two cables that would go to the sensor are always making contact. That way, I can pull out the choke and the magnetic element will always be on so it stays at whatever position I set it. OK. With that explained, as I was pulling into a gas station to gas up, the choke went in, as in the magnetic element lost its signal. Simultaneously, I stopped hearing the Carter fuel pump. Obviously the car died shortly after. BTW I have it modified so that instead of the fuel pump relay, there is a switch I can turn on and off at will.

What could the choke mechanism and the fuel pump have in common as far as their electrical connections are concerned that could cause this?

 

Search Noob!!!!!

 

Okay, now that that's out of the way....

Where are you getting the power from for your fuel pump? And, I assume you've already checked all of your fuses, right? And fusible links?

Actually, it probably isn't important to know where you're powering your fuel pump from because its obviously the same source as the choke. So, what powers the choke is the real question. It must run through a fuse, or fusible link, but I'm sure you've already checked all that out so.......

Anything else not working besides the fuel pump and choke?

 

hahaha nice one, getting back at me huh? at least I gave you a link last time, but obviously you don't know **** about this one

Anyways, I checked fusible links but not the fuses. There's no fuse just for those two so I figured that wouldn't be it. But can't hurt to check, so will do.

The fuel pump gets its power from the stock wiring.

Nothing else is not working.

 

The power has to run through a fuse at some point. It's probably right in the fuse box but not specifically labeled. Just go through each one, only takes a minute if you use a meter.

Oh, and if I'd thought that you would need a link for this question, I would have been more thorough in my response. Sorry for my oversight. Here you go buddy!

https://www.rx7club.com//showthread.php?t=237777

 

weell we're getting funnier and funnier in every response

Thanks for the link, a lot of information I've never seen before!

 

No problem man! Anything at all I can do to help.... You check those fuses yet? You can just send me cash if I'm right (no checks please)..

How's she running anyway (other than these small issues you keep running into)?

 

Well instead of sending you cash why don't I forget about the 10 bux you were supposed to paypal me for the last advice I gave you and we'll call it a day That is, if you are right.

I haven't check the fuses yet. Will do it first thing in the morning.

Other than this little problem and the idle problem, it runs like a champ. I haven't pushed it hard obviously and have not revved it past 4k rpm, but I can feel how the car wants to go! can't wait till break-in is over!

 

Checked all fuses - they're all OK.

 

bump - anybody?

 

I'm not sure how many amps a typical fuel pump will draw, but if its high enough it will burn out a switch if you don't use a relay. Have you taken a close look at the switch yet?

Also, where are you drawing the power for the fuel pump from? Any idea?

 

The switch is not burnt. Yes it was inspected and tested. There is no power getting to the choke relay, or to the connector where the fuel pump relay used to be (now a switch).

All fuses and fusible links were meter tested and are OK.

I'm not sure I understand your question about where is the power for the fuel pump being drawn from. I'm using the stock wiring as I said earlier.

 

Hmm, sounds like its time to break out the wiring diagrams....

BTW, 80 views on this thread and I'm the only one replying? Sounds like I'm the only friend you've got, so you'd better be very nice to me!

The other option (what I would do, anyway) is to just run new wiring for the downed components. I've already rewired just about every vital component of my car, upgrading to higher gauge wiring and inline fuses. I figure if you've got to mess with it anyway, you might as well make it better than original. Shouldn't be too hard to run new power lines to these two items, and would probably be easier than tracking down the real issue and then fixing it... Just my 2 cents. Good luck man...

 

Yeah, gotta love this thread's statistics:

# of views: 94
# of replies: 12
# of different users that have replied: 1
# of users that have actually being of help and posted something useful: 0 (just ******* with ya on that last one )

Yeah I broke out the diagrams yesterday, we'll see what can I come up with.

 

Yeah, as long as you've got half a brain (still debatable at this point) you ought to be able to come up with a better wiring setup than the Ford experts did....

 

You god damned noobs!

It's your ECU! COME ON! I would've THOUGHT you would know this!

 

bump

 

Quit bumping your topic, noob. I gave you the only answer you need.

 

 

I say rewire the fuel pump and remove the choke completely. I have now contributed, you may all rest easy.

 

Why doesn't the test work?

 

I will do that as a last resort, if I can't find where the interruption is.

 

Well, you could mess around for the next month trying to figure out how to fix it properly...

Or... you could just grab a peg from the washing line and clip it on the choke rod when you need it

 

Wow man, see how many friends you have now? Now you just need some smart friends who know how to troubleshoot Mazdas!

 

The choke doesn't concern me as much as having no juice to the fuel pump. The car tends to not work properly when there is no fuel in the engine