Setec_fl

Car arrived safe last night (1am eastern &#128564 and I plan on starting to walk through the car end to end to make it road ready. Please tell me if I am missing anything. As this car is now 43 years old and I have no clue what my dad has or hasn’t done, I figure it’s better safe than sorry.

my plan is to:
- remove old gas and replace with new plus add marvel mystery oil
- new fuel filter
- change oil and oil filter (rotary premix or similar)
- replace transmission fluid
- replace rear differential fluid
- new plugs and wires (going to pull them first to check)
- new distributor cap
- flush radiator
- clean and rebuild dual carbs (please see my thread in performance section as I’m at a loss here)
- flush brake fluid
- check brakes
- clean K/N air filters
- already has new battery but it was dead when car arrived

I’ve looked and there doesn’t seem to be grease points on the car, but I figured I would ask.

anything else?

oh, and buy a creeper as getting under this car is not the same as my truck 🤦‍♂️

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

If the car has sat for over 5-10 years, you might need to drop the tank and inspect. If it's bad, might need to have it cleaned a resealed. At the very least, replace EVERY soft fuel line. The sizes are 6mm and 8mm. This includes the ones going directly to the tank. I've changed them with the tank removed and with the tank supported and removing the back tank strap bolt to tilt the tank (I have a BendPak four post lift so it helps). Either way you tackle it, they both have their challenges. A multi set of hose pliers really helps. Got mine at Harbor Freight.

Also depending on how log it has sat, clutch master and slave and brake master. New water pump and t-stat after flush.

Banzai

iTrader: (13)

When you go to start it, I'd add a little seafoam to the fresh gas. It helps clean out the varnish from the fuel system. I run it regularly in my cars. If the OMP is hooked up and running (not sure since you have a different carb setup) I wouldn't worry about premixing. I have four 12inch race ramp pedestals that get the car high enough off the ground to work underneath. Not as good as a lift, but it works.

Might want to check / replace the coolant hoses and have the radiator pressure tested at a shop. The heater hose that runs along the fire wall and over to the side of the keg is another good hose to inspect for replacement. I'd check the idler arm, if it's still a stock one, I'd almost bet the bushings are shot. They are notorious for going south, but are still available and are an easy, cheap fix.

The clutch master and slave are also good replacement tips. They seem to be able to fail on a whim at times. Just replaced a set yesterday on one car. No problems what so ever, then all of a sudden, a very soft clutch. Be aware, there are two kinds of clutch masters for SA's. Early cars have the fitting at a 45 degree, later ones (including 1980) have the fitting straight up or 90 degrees. This makes the hard lines going to them different. Might want to replace the flex line between the hard line on the fire wall and the slave too.