what is the max hp you could feaseably obtain from a 12a on pump gas? AJC13b was getting about 500 from his 13b and it was his daily driver. how much power can you pull from this little motor and how long will it last.

again im gonna compare apples to oranges, i can get 750hp and up from a v8 and although its tempermental it will last for years if taken care of.

i understand on the street you normally lower boost and so on but, how much can be there even its not used all the time?

 

I dont know much about 12a's but one thing to take into factoring is weight. That V8 making 750 hp is like 2 or 3 times heaveir than a 12a.

 

this sounds like a question for 680RWHP12A...

 

Maybe you need to clarify your intentions. Max? Are you serious? Are we talkin N/A? boosted? NOS?

 

i am talking na/ or boosted or supercharged ro nitrous or ..... anything that makes it go faster.if you want to calculate in the hp addition of a couple of mothballs in the gas tank go ahead. my question and purpose is as follows,

i am different i like different things thats why i bought a rx7 and why i want to transplant rotaries into anything possible, i.e. a porsche 914, or s-10, or miata, just to be different.

on the same hand i like fast and hate being beat. i have a lot of friends with v-tech **** that smoke my 7 stock, vs. stock im whooped.

i want to build, im assuming a "daily driven" p.port ( i drive about 100 miles of freeway a day). 90 % of my time is at 70mph or greater. i did not like it when the porsche 911 turbo flat smoked me at a 70 mph stomp he ran probably about 600 yrds away from me before letting off i dont have a chance of out running anything short of a toyo tercel, and sometimes that is questionable.


SO,
having said that my question is, with enough time and money, what is the max hp a person could squeeze from a 12a and still drive to work without consant fear of not making it all the way?
what would be the est cost and the est. life of the motor?

PS. i know it would be easier with a 13b or 20b or a v6 or v8 or anything other than a 12a or a briggs and stratton, but like i said i like to be different and do things my way!

 

ok is this a good start tell me if some of this is unneeded or i missed something.

p port housings
3 other aluminum housings
race rotors
carbon apexs?
race rbld kit
hardened stationary gear
oil mods?
balancing
alum. flywheel
custom intake with fuel injectors and nitrous injectors
fuel pump(s)
fuel lines
fuel filters
fuel regulaters

msd type ignition

turbo
custom exh manifold
intercooler
piping
blow off valve
turbo timer
wastegate

nos 1 stage direct port setup

all guages

engine/ fuel management sys to keep everything together

good***driveline!!!!!!

 

well, what kind of car do you got? assuming it is a sa or fb. i'm sure the real question is HOW MUCH MONEY YOU GOT. i myself like different things. i'm goin to put my engine in a 64 triumph spitfire. that will be sweet. i tell you what. you get a WELL BUILT 12a with race ports (they should be more stable that bridge ports) turbo housings, upgraded 3mm seals, above average seals all the way around, clearanced rotors, high volume pump,racing beat header back system, holley 650 double pump, a camden supercharger set at 8 to 11 psi. and you won't have a problem going fast anymore. gets a little spendy. you don't need the turbo housings but why not if moneys no problem. i don't have a supercharger yet but i have no problems with those little pissed ons. good luck with your decisions.

 

Ok, with the limitation of it having to be a daily driver lets explore this with the money is no object approach.

SP is the safest way to go. BP with boost= less reliability. PP is not realistic on the street. Look at where they make their power. I'd rather see you have a huge SP which will still make gobs of power but not have the life issues a BP has. No carbon apx seals on a boosted motor. They are far to brittle, one hiccup and it will shatter. Ceramics are the way to go. Of course have you priced Ianetti seals? I know, money is no object, never mind. The aluminum side housings wont make anymore power, just less weight to haul around. Lightweight rotors with a light FW, then have the whole assembly balanced (a must when fooling around with rotor weights). Hardened stat gears are a good idea, also a high volume MFR race pump and bump up the oil pressure a little by shimmiing the regulators.

Then youll have a motor that will last, and withstand your boosting. Good luck.

 

ok good strong long lasting but what is the theoetical hp mark achieved and assuming a good driveline and suspension, the 1/4 and 1/8 mile ime

o yeah and the estimated cost factor for complete car

i am seriously thinking about making a "flagship" for my paint and body business.

 

you dont need that much power for the street...way out of the question of daily driver. but to make some good power out of a 12a check out my mods on my sig....but consider dowell pinning for higher boost levels

 

Actually I think what GURU has donw with the 1/2" studs in place of the tension bolts kicks dowel pinnings ***. Effin geniuses those aussies are I tell ya.

 

Early this year I seriously considered installing a high performance 12A, the plan has been delayed for a year due to working overseas. The specifications are for a very quick streetcar suitable as a daily driver.

The basis is a rebuilt, streetported ported and dowelled 12AT efi using a Garrett TO40/66 turbo with 2x1000 and 2x1700 injectors with the usual Turbosmart and Microtech controls. The drive train will be based on a Toyota Supra Turbo gearbox with a custom driveshaft All other components would be heavy duty/high performance including front mounted ic, clutch and twin fuel pumps. The provisional budget is $12-15,000.

The projected output is 475-485hp at 28psi, some 390rwhp. While the car will only be a fast cruiser, I would expect a 1/4 time of 11.0-11.2 seconds.

 

Details please...

 

Im running about 130 HP......got a new carb air filter just small stuf...no headers or anything

 

LOL sorry. Looked thru their site and its not there. They brought teh coolest stuff to SS6. What they do is to use 12mm or 1/2" (your choice as I was told) studs to replace the tension bolts. They fit nice and snug in the housing holes which gives awsome torsional stiffness to the housing "stack". Much better and easier than a couple of added dowel pins IMHO. Dunno why its not on the site yet. But alot of their stuff apparently isint either that they were displying at SS6.

 

It sounds like your car has a lot of other issues if this true that you cant even beat a tercel. Have you ever ridden in a good street ported first gen with good exhaust and a really good intake and light flywheel? If you havent you should so you can feel how they run. I think for you the best choice would be a huge street port or a mid size bridge port and then hit it with about a 150 shot. either way it would get you into the 350-400 FWHP range, and if you can lighten out your fat pig then you can get the weight to around 2200 or so. hitting the nitrous on the higway next to a porche should almost beat them. most are in the 300-400 range and your lighter. you would slaughter all the hondas too. I think this is your best bet and it would be reliable especially if the engine was a real solid one built by someone like pineaple racing.

CJG

 

Stock 12a no mods only puts about 100hp to the ground TOPS, Stock you should be able to beat an SI