Okay, stupid question, sorry to ask it almost, but here goes....
I got a 82 with a 12-a.... is the Air pump only for emissions reasons, is it basically just to send air into the cat? I ask because i am planning on removing the rats nest ( i like to call it the **** pile), they stock exhaust mani, and the cat to be replaced by pacesetter headers to the stock muffler really soon. If so, can i basically pull that heavy piece of crap thats in my way (air pump) off without worrying about any adverse effects elsewhere? will i need any special belts to avoid problems due to a missing one?

 

btw, i realize the stock muffler probably sucks, but i cant quite afford the RB one yet, as i just rebuilt much of the suspension and want to do a RB front swaybar and ES bushing kit all around next, after the header

 

as soon as you have a header the airpump cant be used anyway so i say junk it

 

thanks, but what about the pullys/belts? will it be bad to entirely delte the belt that runs the air pump? I know how these things go often, you try to mak esomething simpler/work better, and ya go and screw all sorts of things that you dont even think about up, just wanna avoid any of that

 

Get a borla muffler, many people have gone that route and it is much cheaper than RB (unless you find a cheap used one).

 

IIRC the belt that runs the airpump runs completely indepent of the water pump and alternator so it wont do any harm taking it off. some people will get a belt squeal when only running 1 belt on the water pump. To make sure this doesnt happen, you can buy a dual sheeved alternator pully

like so ----> http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...x/DSC00667.jpg

 

Did someone say Borla!?! I like. I've run a single belt since I swapped to a header with no problem. The dual belt systems sure do look cool though.

 

Is it the same for the GSL-SE, or does the air pump a have anouther purpose

 

Cool thanks. I will still have 2 belst running though, can't give up my AC, its hotter than F*** here in Houston! lol So you say the Borla's handle the heat, huh? is there any particular bora style or line you would recommend to come from a 2 in header?

 

I can't believe people haven't flogged you for wanting to run the pacesetter header.

That thing will actually make you LOSE horsepower. At least I believe a 2nd gen owner dynoed a stock car with and without the pacesetter.

Search for it. It's got fittment issues and doesn't sound so great according to most people.

 

I have borla and I LOVE IT

 

While many say they have no issues with only having one belt running the alt/water pump, what they don't say is how often they replace that belt, or re-tension it.
My car had the air pump still in place, but without a belt or cat when I got the car. I deleted the air pump soon after. I have gone thru 3 alt belts in 20K miles. They would work fine for a while, but once they got 6-9 months old, I could tighten them up till you could play a tune with it. They still would slip at 4-5K RPM. Annoying as hell during AutoX runs, where I see 6-7K many times in a short period of time.
I recently purchased a dual belt pully for my alt, and put twin belts on it. All 3 items combined cost about the same as the 3 belts I had already used up. Best of all, no squeeling when I wind it up a little. Now I have to actually look at tach to make sure it's not buried.....
When removing the air pump, it's best to either add a dual belt alt pully and twin belts, or at least use the 3l220 belt from the e-shaft to water pump.

 

Pacesetter isn't worth it. Save up for the Racing Beat one. If you have a welder just get the disassembled header kit from Racing Beat, you can save some money that way.

And +1 to Borla.

 

Don't buy a Paceshitter.

Just don't.

There are always used RB headers available through the classifieds. Keep your eyes open and you'll save some coin. They are basically indestructible and will last longer than the car will.

As for Borla, I'm a big fan. I fitted a Borla 'Turbo' muffler on my SA last year and it's still sounding and looking good. Here's a sound clip of my car revving on the driveway, and here's some video of the car running through a Solo II course:

http://members.shaw.ca/deuteronomy/Borla.mp3
http://youtube.com/watch?v=A5yI_osBxY0
http://video.google.ca/videoplay?doc...66967&hl=en-CA

The first video is last year, before I installed my Webers. The second is from last weekend.

 

In an SE you can use the airpump to operate your 5/6 ports if the exhaust driven method stops working. Iwas gonna rig mine up to my airpump but I think the hose from the RB silencer to the actuators is leaking and needs replaced --> easier!

 

As far as the pulley goes one is usually enough but considering that you can go to an alternator rebuild place and have them put a double alt. pulley on for like .80 why not just go with the double

 

Thanks so much for all your replies. Like i said, i still will be leaving the ac in ( i know, i know, heavy heavy heavy, but i need it here!), so I will still have 2 belts running so i dont think ill need the duel belt pulley, although it looks badass! If you guys all say F*** the pacesetter, then i'll take your word for it and keep my eyes open for a used rb one (would rather go that way anyway, as the RB headers seem to be favorites around this forum and its members!). Also probably gonna go with the borla for this car, ill wait for the RB exhaust untill i finmish this car up and get a FC with a turbo, as i think i'll be driving RX-7's for a LOOOOOONG time to come

 

The A/C belt doesn't touch the waterpump. Therefore, the the need for the dual belt alt setup.
A single belt will keep the alt charging fine, but can allow the waterpump pully to slip.

Pacesetter headers are almost as costly as RB's. Time you add in the ceramic coating, which is included on the RB unit, it's even more costly than the RB.
I have never seen a pacesetter in person, but I have an RB on my car. That **** is heavy. PS uses thinner metal for the flanges, and thinner pipe VS the RB. RB uses 7/16 plate for the flanges, and 1/8 thick pipe. That will last longer than the car, even without the ceramic coating.........
I bought mine used, with a presilencer, for $100 locally. It had been used less than 2 years/10K miles, and besides looking a little dirty, was good as new.
I also have a borla muffler, and even without the presilencer installed, the sound level is tolerable. I just haven't gotten around to reworking my stainless pipe to allow the presilencer to fit. Once I do, I figure the sound level will be even more tolerable. It can't be too loud, since I live 1/2 block away from the police cheif, and he gives a freindly wave when I drive past his house.

 

ehhh. im pretty sure that pacesetter isnt all that bad. little cheaper and a little cheaper made. But if you got a die grinder or even a dremel (though that will take more time) be sure to go over everywhere that its welded cause from what ive heard and seen there welds are dirty. The nice thing about them compaired to dissambled RB ones is that they are cheaper and they go out to a singe outlet flange instead of dual. and once you add in the price of a dual to single (name escapes me right now) of about 75 bucks, well your at the price of a built RB exhaust. But if you can weld then you can get everything to build a header for cheaper then even the dissasembled RB kits.
And I am a bad fish with 2 (well now 1 1/2) pints of booze

 

As every one has stated. Stay away from pacesetter. You are better off posting up a WTB ad in the classifieds for a used RB one.

As far as the belt issue. The key is the quality of the belt. I Have always run a single belt when I have removed the air pump, and have never had one slip or wore them out.

Keep your A/C, I lived 3 years in Houston. It's not the heat that gets you, it is the Humidity. :-)

 

So the concensus is in... Pacesetter = NO BUENO! If I go with the RB, what all will I need in order to mount it to my stock block? Which would be better for a street driver/ occasional auto x (just for fun, not competatively), the dual outlet or the collector style header? Keep in mind I'm on a limited budget and the less fabrication the better, as I do not have a welder. Thanks again for all your input.

 

Get used, same quality. It will look and perform the same as if you bought it new 4 months ago.
Used RB header
Used RB presilencer
Borla Muffler
Have an exhaust shop fab the rest of your system with thick walled mandrel bent tubing and you will have great, long lasting sound and performance.
It should cost less than $400

 

You seemed to be a little missinformed so i'm going to give you a little correct info. The RB header comes in two flavors depending on your application. The streetable header has a collected single out flange and O2 sensor bung so the car can remain emissions legal while giving you an advantage over the stock exhaust maifold. Option two is the uncollected header designed for streetported engines which takes advantage of of the use of dual exhaust right up till just before the muffler so as to get maximum scavenging of the exhaust. This is suppose to give you a claimed 5% hp over the streetable header.

As far as welding up your own header, You'll probably end up with something that hinders performance just as much as the pacesetter unless you have first hand knowledge of what size piping to use, How long it should be and how to make each pipe the same length. If you start doing trial and error then you can pretty much throw your cost savings out the window.

 

Easier said than done. No exhaust shops can or will bend the required 1/8" wall thickness pipe. You're honestly better off buying the straight pipe and u-bends from RB and spending the time to cut and weld the system yourself.

You know recently joined forum member torq? I heard his car yesterday. It's got a thinwall system with a Magnaflow. It sounds not that great. Noisy, ricey, metalic etc. So...

+1 thickwall pipe
+1 Borla (or just get the entire RB system and easily bolt it on yourself)

 

[quote=Rotor13B;7225504]You seemed to be a little missinformed so i'm going to give you a little correct info. The RB header comes in two flavors depending on your application. The streetable header has a collected single out flange and O2 sensor bung so the car can remain emissions legal while giving you an advantage over the stock exhaust maifold. Option two is the uncollected header designed for streetported engines which takes advantage of of the use of dual exhaust right up till just before the muffler so as to get maximum scavenging of the exhaust. This is suppose to give you a claimed 5% hp over the streetable header.

Correction. There are no emission legal headers made for our cars.

Some states may have a tailpipe only test waiving the visual but the header is not emission legal.
The purpose of the O'2 bung for the Se is so that the ECU will still receive it's signal to help with fuel mixture.