I've decided after much thought and other's opinions to buy an s5 from a junkyard (full car) and swap in my motor with my rotor housings, the s5 rotors, and s5 intake manifold. My car has become too trashed to go back, hopefully i can find an s5 with just a blown seal or something small. My car will need alot of body work, paint, engine, ect and will cost me nearly 3-4k, whereas an s5 would cost me around 1-2k to have it the way i want it. (assuming body and paint is good)

 

why not buy another first gen? it would be even cheaper.

 

Because i planned on buying an s5 anyway to use it's rotors and intake manifold for my car along with whatever other goodies, then parting the rest. I can probably pick up a complete s5 from a junkyard for $300.

 

cool, i knew there musta been a reason.

 

Goodbye fellow FB owners.

 

What's so wrong with your GSL-SE?

I wish you the best of luck, though I only wish it didn't come to this We're gonna miss ya.

If ya ever decide to go FB route again, we'll back ya 100%

Jon

 

 

The body is trashed with dents, i wrecked it and the rear quarter panel shattered from bondo. (this was about 7 months ago) It's spray painted, The transmission is destroyed (every gear grinds). The s5 has more aftermarket availability as well. I of course will stick around the 1st gen forum area, i grew up with my rx-7 with you guys, i could never leave. I just won't own an FB anymore.

 

Well, im glad to see you didnt go the way of the

 

that cycle on the reciprocating is wrong.

 

At least SOMEbody said what we were all thinking...

It was just a matter of time till someone just up and said it (although be it rather bluntly in this case).

 

Um, no I think it's correct.

 

looks about right to me

 

im pretty sure its right.

 

After looking at it for like 3 minutes straight...

Looks correct to me.

Do yourself a favor. Buy a whole running car. If you're going to get a junkyard car, and try to swap FB parts on it, you're SOL.

There's freaking 91 Verts on Ebay for 2500 or less sometimes. Turbo II's galore.

Save extra, and get a car, not a junkyard project.

 

The right cylinder has bad cam timing... The valve opens while it's still burning.

At least it looks like it to me... Kinda hard to check the timing on a GIF file...

 

how bout the air dam? can i steal that from ya e-mail me plz
jerad@travisbsd.org

 

There is no valid explanation for giving up on an FB.

 

The air dam is busted up, you don't want it. I may try to reglass it if i sell it sometime. I'm not parting the car yet. I did just find an S4 for sale, it's sat for 3 years but still in great condition outside, the body is straight aside from a dent on the lower door. The motor went underwater though and is bad. My plan if i get this is; Port my rotor housings from my gsl-se, add the s4 rotors, add the s4 intake, and add my full exhaust.

 

Yeah I actually heard today that rotaries can go underwater. It's probably true to an extent. Pretty cool, huh?

 

Appearently this one didn't like going underwater. I didn't actually talk to the owner, but a friend of mine knows the owner and told me this. I went to check it out with him today, the only cosmetic problems are; hole in tail lense, dent in lower portion of door and dent after the front bumper, all of which will easily be pulled or covered up by a body kit. The paint appeared to be good, no clear flaking or scratched, just coated in film from sitting. The interior is MINT.

 

A rotary CAN go underwater and survive!!! I ressurected a flooded 3rd gen engine once and it worked perfectly. You need to drain the entire engine of water by taking the plugs out, manifolds off, exhaust off, drain all the fluids and replace them, etc. Crank it over a few times and then put everything back together. Pull it down the street in 2nd gear behind another car at about 20 mph or so. After a couple of minutes it should start. You can not just crank it over with any of the 'tricks' people try to do. None of them work anyways. A little atf doesn't hurt before you pull it either. Some people say that atf is bad for the engine but if it just had a drink of water where's the harm going to come in? It may be bad anyways. The neat thing about a rotaries internal seals that don't apply to piston engines is that when it gets flooded the seals will just merely push back into the rotor a little bit and let the fluid go by into the next chamber instead of trying to compress it. This is why it is so hard to start a flooded (by gas) rotary. The same thing is happening and it isn't getting very good compression. A piton engine's seals won't seat back into the piston but rather stay where they are and try to compress the water. You can't compress water only pressurize it. Bang, dead seals. I've saved several engines that people swore were dead only because they don't know what really happens to them. That's how I bought my nearly mint condition GSL-SE for only $300! Other people's ignorance can be bliss to you!

 

Oh, BTW the FC motor mounts are completely different than the FB. There is a mount that attaches to the intermediate housing,underneath through the oil pan. So you can't use that housing from the SE.Since you can't use that housing you can't use any of them, because you can't mix rotor and side housings; they moved the water seals from the side housings on the earlier motors to the rotor housings. So you pretty much need to use the whole S5 engine for an S5 car, so get a running one.

Basically newer 13B engines are backwards compatable and can be easily put in 1st gens, but our 1st gen ones aren't forward compatable and won't easy fit in 2nd gens.

 

I've never heard that before, i was told i did need to use my oil pan though. I want to use my rotor housings because 2nd gen exhaust ports can't be ported.

 

The exhaust valves are on the outside, the intakes are on the inside. The exhaust is opening when the piston hits the bottom of the stroke. There's even some serious overlap between the exhaust valve events and the intake events. Pretty cool, actually.

It's correct.