Turbo_Crazy

I just got a 79 Rex and I was wondering what I should do, because the car has no motor in it. It came with the auto tranny, but keeping that would be a waste of time. Any advice on a cheap motor/tranny idea would be much appreciated. Also, what has to be done to remove any/all of the emissions control garbage? Will the removal of these pieces cause the engine to run less reliable? As usual, any help would be great!

Thanks

yayarx7

Just my opinon:

I have never been able to get a 1st gen to run really good with the emissions stuff removed. I consider myself to be a top notch wrench, when it comes to 1st gens but those nikki carbs just baffle me.

The removal of the emissions componenets should not affect reliability.

a 12a would be the cheapest.
A 13b built for a 1st gen chassis would be the easiest.
A gsl-se 13b with tranny would be the next easiest.
a turbo motor could be cool.
a twin turbo would be cooler.
A 20b would be the coolest!

again just IMHO

jsinrx7

I have a 79' that I removed all of the emmisions when I changed the motor out. It took about 2 weeks on and off to track down all of the vacum leaks, but now it is running flawlessly and I have never had a problem. Removing all of the emissions equip. will cause the engine to run a little rich, but not too bad; just remember to cap off all of those vacum nipples! Jason

Turbo_Crazy

Hmmm...a 20B.....nahhh. I'd be dead in a week if I put one of those in this car. Oh well, thanks for the advice, and I'll let you know how things work out.

RXcetera

Lol! I've never been able to get a 1st gen to really run good with the emissions stuff INSTALLED!

Felix Wankel

Me either. Too damn many vacuum lines.

riffraff

i have a 12a driveline from a 79 for sale if you want it. everything works well except for the engine (which i think just needs new seals).

engine actually runs right now as is, but just not very well. i think it is running with compression on only one rotor, which makes me think that the seal might be stuck.

email me if interested. felix@atg1.com

yayarx7

I feel I must now correct myself. I removed the ACV and the EGR and the thermal reactor off my 80 and after struggling for a few days with a vaccum leak I got it working better than when I started in on it.

SO strike everything I said about the emissions stuff.

RXcetera

Stricken .

Turbo_Crazy

If I was to add a 13b, it is FI if I am not mistaken. What would be required to change over my vehicle to make it compatible with fuel injection? Is it really worth the trouble? Would the car be any more fuel efficient?

MIKE-P-28

iTrader: (1)

My vert gets a little better gas mileage than my FB or SA did. But unless you are ready to go through a major amount of wiring woes or an aftermarket computer (800-1500) Not to mention the cost of the motor, fuel pump etc, several other things...Id just do some stuff to your 12A

moremazda

iTrader: (4)

You can carb a 13b, 6-port or 4-port. The options to what you can do are endless. To add a stock FI system is a pretty intense effort, and will most likely end up costing you as much, if not close to, as and aftermarket FI system. Which can exceed $1500 easy. If you are looking to builld a budget high ***** per dollar motor, my advice is to look for a rotating assembly from a GSL-SE plus the rotor housings, sandwhich that is some 12a side plates with a phat street port, through on a used weber or dellorto with a racing beat exhaust. Voila, 200+ horses for about $2000, if you shop smartly.

Good luck on any performance path you choose.

Ryan

Turbo_Crazy

It would be nice to add a 13B, but it sounds like a lot of work. I guess I'll just stick with a 12A. Will the later model (82-85) engines and trannys bolt right in, or is there some cutting required. I'm trying to keep this very simple and very cheap. I don't nescessarily want horsepower, just driveability. Keep in mind that this is my first attempt at something this big. Thanks for all the advice so far!