Adjusting throttle linkage
12-25-06, 05:34 PM
#1
Adjusting throttle linkage
Ok guys, I do not know how this happened! Rebuilt my carb, have it back on the carb, wiring is good, vaccuum tubes is good... but my cables are 3 inches too long!!!
ok, I see one way to adjust the throttle cable, the end near the carb, where it mounts to. but that wont be enough! I do not know how i could have ended up with so much extra length... any help? it is the same way for the choke!
ok, I see one way to adjust the throttle cable, the end near the carb, where it mounts to. but that wont be enough! I do not know how i could have ended up with so much extra length... any help? it is the same way for the choke!
12-25-06, 05:48 PM
#3
I cant say why your choke cable is too long, but your accelerator cable is in the wrong place. It should go in a little half moon shaped channel piece (lol) its closer to the firewall in relation to where you have it, and it will connect almost on the other side of the carb. It looks to me like youve got it in place of the hot start assist.
12-25-06, 07:17 PM
#6
ok, whatever the cable I am showing in the pic above, is now hooked into the hot start assist linkage. everything is hooked up. start the car, it sputters, then starts to rev. gets to about 3800/4000 rpm before it smooths out and stays there, before i turn it off. I would say, from the moment it begins to turn over to when i turn it off, it is maybe 2-3 seconds.
help anyone? just rebuilt the carb.
help anyone? just rebuilt the carb.
12-26-06, 12:25 PM
#7
Checked the throttle cable, its a little loose, even if it was tight, it shouldnt rev to over 4k when I am not starting up and not pushing the gas. disengaged the cable to the choke and hte HSA. there seems to be gas filmon hte side of the carb. this car irritates.
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12-26-06, 11:12 PM
#8
You are correct that the thing near the master cylinder in your second picture is the hot start assist.
Take a look at this first image. The hot start assist goes way down at the bottom and is secured by a spring clip. The throttle cable goes in the rearmost bracket (rightmost in the image) and is secured with two nuts, one on each side of the bracket. The choke cable goes up at the top. It just slides in and the single nut is used to adjust it. The slot next to the throttle cable, which is empty in the image, is for cruise control, which I'm assuming you don't have.
In the second image the hot start assist goes into the lever closest to the drivers side (leftmost in the picture), the one that flaps around. Behind that long vacuum line there are two sectors (Bits of metal like part of a circle), one behind the other, mounted to turn on the throttle shaft. The throttle cable goes into the rear one, not the front one! The front one is for cruise control and should be empty if you don't have it. If you put the throttle here, your engine will idle at a few thousand RPM! The eyelet that the end of the cable hooks into is just visible, indicated with an arrow. Once the throttle is all hooked up properly, adjust it so there is no slack, but don't tighten it so much that the throttle can't close. Also adjust the choke in a similar way.
Make sure the red circled spring is hooked up as shown. Take note of the blue circled area, make sure that the rod is properly hooked into the lever. You will have to pull against spring pressure to get it in. That funny little nut, circled in green, should be perched on the lever as shown. Don't adjust this nut! If you do all of this and the engine still idles high, the nut may need adjusting. Make sure the choke is not pulled and push the throttle sector (The round piece of metal you hooked the end of the throttle cable up to) closed with you finger. If the RPM drops, than the green circled nut is too lose and needs to be adjusted down the rod. Adjust it until the throttle closes all the way to the stop without help.
Take a look at this first image. The hot start assist goes way down at the bottom and is secured by a spring clip. The throttle cable goes in the rearmost bracket (rightmost in the image) and is secured with two nuts, one on each side of the bracket. The choke cable goes up at the top. It just slides in and the single nut is used to adjust it. The slot next to the throttle cable, which is empty in the image, is for cruise control, which I'm assuming you don't have.
In the second image the hot start assist goes into the lever closest to the drivers side (leftmost in the picture), the one that flaps around. Behind that long vacuum line there are two sectors (Bits of metal like part of a circle), one behind the other, mounted to turn on the throttle shaft. The throttle cable goes into the rear one, not the front one! The front one is for cruise control and should be empty if you don't have it. If you put the throttle here, your engine will idle at a few thousand RPM! The eyelet that the end of the cable hooks into is just visible, indicated with an arrow. Once the throttle is all hooked up properly, adjust it so there is no slack, but don't tighten it so much that the throttle can't close. Also adjust the choke in a similar way.
Make sure the red circled spring is hooked up as shown. Take note of the blue circled area, make sure that the rod is properly hooked into the lever. You will have to pull against spring pressure to get it in. That funny little nut, circled in green, should be perched on the lever as shown. Don't adjust this nut! If you do all of this and the engine still idles high, the nut may need adjusting. Make sure the choke is not pulled and push the throttle sector (The round piece of metal you hooked the end of the throttle cable up to) closed with you finger. If the RPM drops, than the green circled nut is too lose and needs to be adjusted down the rod. Adjust it until the throttle closes all the way to the stop without help.
Last edited by DogBox; 12-26-06 at 11:18 PM.
12-30-06, 09:40 PM
#10
ok, pulled the throttle sector up, and got it to idle down to 800-1000rpm, but sounded like a bridgeport, i believe? I have a video uploading right now to show you. also a lot of smoke is coming out of the exhaust. I mean... a LOT.
12-31-06, 12:43 PM
#13
Great work. The sound is pretty strange, though. It might be just becuase you have it idling so low while the engine is still cold, but that doesn't seem entierly right either. It might just be a matter of playing with idle speed and mixture screws, but first we need to get it idling in the right territory. You say that you pulled the throttle sector up and the idle dropped to a normal level? Do you mean that you pulled it in the opposit dirrection that the cable pulles it? If so that sounds like either the throttle return spring or the sub return spring. I had the same problem when I rebuilt my carb. The ruturn spring is the one circled in red. I assume you've already checked that it's hooked up right. The sub return spring is the one with the green nut and it causes exactaly this sort of problem, but you already reconnected that. The only thing left I can think of is to turn that green nut further down the rod to increase the tension. Once you've gotton the throttle to close the whole way, without help, only than should you start playing with the idle speed and mixture screws. Fortunatly that's pretty much a "by ear" job.
12-31-06, 01:17 PM
#14
Originally Posted by DogBox
Great work. The sound is pretty strange, though. It might be just becuase you have it idling so low while the engine is still cold, but that doesn't seem entierly right either. It might just be a matter of playing with idle speed and mixture screws, but first we need to get it idling in the right territory. You say that you pulled the throttle sector up and the idle dropped to a normal level? Do you mean that you pulled it in the opposit dirrection that the cable pulles it? If so that sounds like either the throttle return spring or the sub return spring. I had the same problem when I rebuilt my carb. The ruturn spring is the one circled in red. I assume you've already checked that it's hooked up right. The sub return spring is the one with the green nut and it causes exactaly this sort of problem, but you already reconnected that. The only thing left I can think of is to turn that green nut further down the rod to increase the tension. Once you've gotton the throttle to close the whole way, without help, only than should you start playing with the idle speed and mixture screws. Fortunatly that's pretty much a "by ear" job.
would I need to start the car and then adjust the green nut? or just adjust it and then start it?
12-31-06, 05:18 PM
#16
You can do it without the car running. Push the throttle open and let it close, than see if you can pull the sector any farther closed like you did before. If it moves, tighten the nut.
12-31-06, 06:16 PM
#18
Ohhh, that's really bad. You might try some penetrating oil. Lloyd's MoveIT does wonders. If worst comes to worst, you could always try to find a nut with the same thread and thread it on after the "green" nut.
01-01-07, 09:32 PM
#20
Lives on the Forum
Be careful when adjusting the throttle cable. If it is too tight, then you can damage the carb. With the motor off, use a 2x4 to keep the gas pedal to the floor. Then adjust the throttle cable until the throttle plates are wide open. Then remove the 2x4. After that, any adjustment should be made at the idle screw. Good luck...
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