AC Compressor/Electrical issue?
08-06-19, 11:41 AM
#1
hey bRotard
Thread Starter
AC Compressor/Electrical issue?
Hi yall. Sorry if this post is redundant, I did try searching the forums and Google for this issue!
I was able to recharge my compressor yesterday - vacuum for a while, pulling all the old stuff out (whatever remained of it) and double vacuuming again just to be sure. Fitted new brass nipples onto the compressor since it looked like the old one was leaking (when we tried charging it before, it would leak out there). Put in 134a, oil. Figured I'd be fine. Worked great yesterday, however, today after C-school I was warming up at 3k with the compressor on, blowing cold air, and all of the sudden I heard a loud POP from the engine bay. White smoke came out and I thought I ate up an apex seal but there's no rhythmic pulsing and she idled like always before.
HOWEVER - the compressor does not turn on anymore. The clutch is disengaged and refuses to couple from pressing the AC button and it no longer blows cold air. I have a feeling the white-ish smoke was the refrigerant that came out, nothing is blowing cold. I looked at some relays and they're old but weren't an issue before - to note, the wire going to the compressor lead up to a plug going into a relay with two browned pins, and two normal looking ones. I looked at the fuse box, and weirdly the fuse to the compressor wasn't blown (but the "opener" one was). Replaced with new ones, still didn't work. I even replaced the AC one and cigar lighter one. When I looked at the lines, it didn't seem like there was a catastrophic hole anywhere, and I just tightened down the lines going into the compressor.
After the pop, the compressor worked maybe one button push or two, but then after that it just never worked again. I'm tired and smelly so I decided to look at all the associated connections, relays and fuses later this week (I just spent five hours trying to figure out why my compressor wouldn't charge correctly, we ended up filling it from the low side instead). I have not checked the receiver/drier yet, but plan on it, maybe an electrical connection there went kaput.
Anyone have any idea what happened? Where would be the best location to start looking in first? I wanted to change out the compressor but RockAuto sent me one from Four Seasons with male attachments instead of the OEM Sanden AC compressor's female end. Also, the new receiver they sent me did not have a spot for the electrical connections that go on the stock system, so I don't think I could install it and make it work.
Also, I'm not sure if I have dealer air or factory air. I noticed in the door jambs I have stickers indicating an "Authorized Mazda Modification" or something along the lines of that but Google searches don't come up with anything. I have a feeling I have dealer installed air? I understand R-12 and 134a are different and have different effects on the system as a whole but I was looking at from $20 a pound to $50 with R-12.. went with the cheaper option
Thank you for any sort of help. On the bright side the switch leading to the rear hatch works now, so I don't always have to turn the engine off to grab anything out the back
I was able to recharge my compressor yesterday - vacuum for a while, pulling all the old stuff out (whatever remained of it) and double vacuuming again just to be sure. Fitted new brass nipples onto the compressor since it looked like the old one was leaking (when we tried charging it before, it would leak out there). Put in 134a, oil. Figured I'd be fine. Worked great yesterday, however, today after C-school I was warming up at 3k with the compressor on, blowing cold air, and all of the sudden I heard a loud POP from the engine bay. White smoke came out and I thought I ate up an apex seal but there's no rhythmic pulsing and she idled like always before.
HOWEVER - the compressor does not turn on anymore. The clutch is disengaged and refuses to couple from pressing the AC button and it no longer blows cold air. I have a feeling the white-ish smoke was the refrigerant that came out, nothing is blowing cold. I looked at some relays and they're old but weren't an issue before - to note, the wire going to the compressor lead up to a plug going into a relay with two browned pins, and two normal looking ones. I looked at the fuse box, and weirdly the fuse to the compressor wasn't blown (but the "opener" one was). Replaced with new ones, still didn't work. I even replaced the AC one and cigar lighter one. When I looked at the lines, it didn't seem like there was a catastrophic hole anywhere, and I just tightened down the lines going into the compressor.
After the pop, the compressor worked maybe one button push or two, but then after that it just never worked again. I'm tired and smelly so I decided to look at all the associated connections, relays and fuses later this week (I just spent five hours trying to figure out why my compressor wouldn't charge correctly, we ended up filling it from the low side instead). I have not checked the receiver/drier yet, but plan on it, maybe an electrical connection there went kaput.
Anyone have any idea what happened? Where would be the best location to start looking in first? I wanted to change out the compressor but RockAuto sent me one from Four Seasons with male attachments instead of the OEM Sanden AC compressor's female end. Also, the new receiver they sent me did not have a spot for the electrical connections that go on the stock system, so I don't think I could install it and make it work.
Also, I'm not sure if I have dealer air or factory air. I noticed in the door jambs I have stickers indicating an "Authorized Mazda Modification" or something along the lines of that but Google searches don't come up with anything. I have a feeling I have dealer installed air? I understand R-12 and 134a are different and have different effects on the system as a whole but I was looking at from $20 a pound to $50 with R-12.. went with the cheaper option
Thank you for any sort of help. On the bright side the switch leading to the rear hatch works now, so I don't always have to turn the engine off to grab anything out the back
08-06-19, 02:09 PM
#2
ancient wizard...
Do you have manifold gauges? When charging,what were lo/hi side operating pressures? How much refrigerant did you charge into system?
Did YOU convert from R12 to R134 refrigerant? Did you flush system of mineral oil and add proper amount of PAG oil? Replace drier?
What year is your car?
1st thing to check is for level of refrigerant in system now,hook up gauges. No refrigerant,look closely on compressor housing for oil leakage. Pull rubber plug on top of metal shroud so yo can see the receiver drier,does it have signs of oil leakage? Either drier or compressor or both will have a plug filled with solder that will blow out from an overpressure event. You should be able to see something on one or the other.Look at hoses,pull top of metal radiator shroud off so you can see drier/hoses and condenser. Look thru grille opening at front of condenser for wet spots/oil leakage.
Loud pop you heard was refrigerant leaving in a hurry,when that occurs oil in system follows it out and leaves a trail that you can see.If you can't see anything amiss,charge some refrigerant into system without car running and listen for hissing as it escapes,follow the noise.
You ARE supposed to charge from the low side...
Answer all the questions,dependent on answers will advise what to do next.
Did YOU convert from R12 to R134 refrigerant? Did you flush system of mineral oil and add proper amount of PAG oil? Replace drier?
What year is your car?
1st thing to check is for level of refrigerant in system now,hook up gauges. No refrigerant,look closely on compressor housing for oil leakage. Pull rubber plug on top of metal shroud so yo can see the receiver drier,does it have signs of oil leakage? Either drier or compressor or both will have a plug filled with solder that will blow out from an overpressure event. You should be able to see something on one or the other.Look at hoses,pull top of metal radiator shroud off so you can see drier/hoses and condenser. Look thru grille opening at front of condenser for wet spots/oil leakage.
Loud pop you heard was refrigerant leaving in a hurry,when that occurs oil in system follows it out and leaves a trail that you can see.If you can't see anything amiss,charge some refrigerant into system without car running and listen for hissing as it escapes,follow the noise.
You ARE supposed to charge from the low side...
Answer all the questions,dependent on answers will advise what to do next.
08-06-19, 07:40 PM
#3
hey bRotard
Thread Starter
Do you have manifold gauges? When charging,what were lo/hi side operating pressures? How much refrigerant did you charge into system?
Did YOU convert from R12 to R134 refrigerant? Did you flush system of mineral oil and add proper amount of PAG oil? Replace drier?
What year is your car?
1st thing to check is for level of refrigerant in system now,hook up gauges. No refrigerant,look closely on compressor housing for oil leakage. Pull rubber plug on top of metal shroud so yo can see the receiver drier,does it have signs of oil leakage? Either drier or compressor or both will have a plug filled with solder that will blow out from an overpressure event. You should be able to see something on one or the other.Look at hoses,pull top of metal radiator shroud off so you can see drier/hoses and condenser. Look thru grille opening at front of condenser for wet spots/oil leakage.
Loud pop you heard was refrigerant leaving in a hurry,when that occurs oil in system follows it out and leaves a trail that you can see.If you can't see anything amiss,charge some refrigerant into system without car running and listen for hissing as it escapes,follow the noise.
You ARE supposed to charge from the low side...
Answer all the questions,dependent on answers will advise what to do next.
Did YOU convert from R12 to R134 refrigerant? Did you flush system of mineral oil and add proper amount of PAG oil? Replace drier?
What year is your car?
1st thing to check is for level of refrigerant in system now,hook up gauges. No refrigerant,look closely on compressor housing for oil leakage. Pull rubber plug on top of metal shroud so yo can see the receiver drier,does it have signs of oil leakage? Either drier or compressor or both will have a plug filled with solder that will blow out from an overpressure event. You should be able to see something on one or the other.Look at hoses,pull top of metal radiator shroud off so you can see drier/hoses and condenser. Look thru grille opening at front of condenser for wet spots/oil leakage.
Loud pop you heard was refrigerant leaving in a hurry,when that occurs oil in system follows it out and leaves a trail that you can see.If you can't see anything amiss,charge some refrigerant into system without car running and listen for hissing as it escapes,follow the noise.
You ARE supposed to charge from the low side...
Answer all the questions,dependent on answers will advise what to do next.
08-06-19, 08:12 PM
#4
ancient wizard...
Focus...you lost your full charge of refrigerant=no compressor.Receiver drier should have a pressure switch in top side of it. Its purpose is to disable compressor clutch to save compressor in the event of low refrigerant charge=low level of lubricating oil in system.
If you told me what year your car is i could tell you what you have but from your post i would think dealer/independent shop ac . Pics of compressor/hoses/drier i can tell you which.
Post a pic of drier-you should have replaced that drier,holds the majority of oil in system(old oil). Your original drier will have a high pressure switch installed in side of it. New drier will have a plug you remove from that position on the side and install pressure switch from original drier with new o ring. If you added oil to system,very good chance system has too much oil in it.
Again you didn't say how much refrigerant you put in system. Real good chance between the two system is overcharged and reason it vented off like it did. You have to find out where and then find out why. Answers to my original post would help me help you.
Read thru " Suggestions for modern FB ac condenser" thread. A lot of pertinent info there to help you.
If you told me what year your car is i could tell you what you have but from your post i would think dealer/independent shop ac . Pics of compressor/hoses/drier i can tell you which.
Post a pic of drier-you should have replaced that drier,holds the majority of oil in system(old oil). Your original drier will have a high pressure switch installed in side of it. New drier will have a plug you remove from that position on the side and install pressure switch from original drier with new o ring. If you added oil to system,very good chance system has too much oil in it.
Again you didn't say how much refrigerant you put in system. Real good chance between the two system is overcharged and reason it vented off like it did. You have to find out where and then find out why. Answers to my original post would help me help you.
Read thru " Suggestions for modern FB ac condenser" thread. A lot of pertinent info there to help you.
Last edited by GSLSEforme; 08-06-19 at 08:20 PM.
08-07-19, 02:23 PM
#5
hey bRotard
Thread Starter
Focus...you lost your full charge of refrigerant=no compressor.Receiver drier should have a pressure switch in top side of it. Its purpose is to disable compressor clutch to save compressor in the event of low refrigerant charge=low level of lubricating oil in system.
If you told me what year your car is i could tell you what you have but from your post i would think dealer/independent shop ac . Pics of compressor/hoses/drier i can tell you which.
Post a pic of drier-you should have replaced that drier,holds the majority of oil in system(old oil). Your original drier will have a high pressure switch installed in side of it. New drier will have a plug you remove from that position on the side and install pressure switch from original drier with new o ring. If you added oil to system,very good chance system has too much oil in it.
Again you didn't say how much refrigerant you put in system. Real good chance between the two system is overcharged and reason it vented off like it did. You have to find out where and then find out why. Answers to my original post would help me help you.
Read thru " Suggestions for modern FB ac condenser" thread. A lot of pertinent info there to help you.
If you told me what year your car is i could tell you what you have but from your post i would think dealer/independent shop ac . Pics of compressor/hoses/drier i can tell you which.
Post a pic of drier-you should have replaced that drier,holds the majority of oil in system(old oil). Your original drier will have a high pressure switch installed in side of it. New drier will have a plug you remove from that position on the side and install pressure switch from original drier with new o ring. If you added oil to system,very good chance system has too much oil in it.
Again you didn't say how much refrigerant you put in system. Real good chance between the two system is overcharged and reason it vented off like it did. You have to find out where and then find out why. Answers to my original post would help me help you.
Read thru " Suggestions for modern FB ac condenser" thread. A lot of pertinent info there to help you.
We put in about 21oz of 134a. I read the rule of thumb was 80% of R-12 capacity. 20/21oz. Didn't know I could buy the pressure switch, I'll get one and put it on the new drier. I'll look at the thread you mentioned as well.. seems to have discharged along portside strut tower. Thanks for being patient with me. Trying 18oz this time and seeing how it works.. seems to be holding charge.
https://ibb.co/y63J2nz
https://ibb.co/MNYfLrb
https://ibb.co/Mkgvycc
Last edited by hat.paradox; 08-07-19 at 02:26 PM.
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