el_ghapo

I just took the springs out, is there any way to keep it this low (or even lower?) with springs? im not opposed to extreme mods and I dont care about comfort at all (i live 5 minutes away from my job and 10 from a gas station) I just want it low without worrying about breaking anything

DreamInRotary

iTrader: (49)

Turning it into a Honda I see, next up is super dished wheels with ridiculous camber?

You can get coilovers, but be prepared to shell out $1,000 minimum for BC Racing coilovers to get that low. Best of luck with it.

Maxwedge

iTrader: (1)

Look up " "Lowest" lowering springs" on this forum. There's a thread from '07 about this. I dont know how to copy and paste on my phone or I'd give a link.

WANKfactor

iTrader: (1)

Thats bumpstops. Next step is cut or remove them. But i dont recommend. Geometry is already wrong at that height too btw.

el_ghapo

haha im not gay i just feel like if it dropped down a bit and didnt have 4 inches of wheel gap it would look meaner, also thanks those were the ones i was looking at but didnt know if they were the right ones

el_ghapo

I believe ive been there but most links are dead if i remember correctly and i wanted to know if there was anything newer than over a decade ago

Qingdao

iTrader: (3)

No need for expensive hardware. If you don't care about the geometry of the car and how it handles, just weld taller points of attachment to the car at all 4 corners. In the rear this means cutting a chunk out of the rear spring pertches, and in the front the strut mount area needs to be raised. Then slot the LCA holes in the front, and move the rear links around to correct for pinion angle.


Should cost about $50 at a scrap yard for all the sheet you would need to weld it up.

mustanghammer

iTrader: (3)

Lowering springs and geometry aside, there are several locations on the unibody that can get in the way when you lower one of these. In the rear, the "frame rail" that goes over the axle on each side will eventually become an issue if you go too low. Next is the box structure that is above the tire in the front of the car can get in the way

In my race car, the rear axle tubes are about 2.5 inches from the frame rail in the rear. I designed the suspension to go lower but then the drive shaft would hit the tunnel and I didn't want to have to notch the frame rails. Up front, I did notch the box structure above the tires for tire clearance, This is more an issue for me than you possibly because I am running a 23" tall tire (224/45 x15 or 205/50 x15 on an 8" wheel). With 13" wheels/tires you may not run into a clearance issue in the front.

Other stuff - the front struts will bottom out if you don't raise the upper mount or find a shorter strut. In the rear, shocks will bottom out too, so the mount on the axle would need to be lowered or a shorter shock installed.

Of course, doing this without accounting for suspension geometry and bump steer means you have a car that looks cool but drives and handles like crap.

DriveFast7

iTrader: (1)

It will need some suspension travel. I'd start of with the cheapest and easiest option, to see if you like driving it. Which is to cut the stock springs to get it down this low. Assuming the car is riding on the bump stops in the pic, then you'll want to cut an inch or two off the bump stops to have some sort of travel.

If the car gets too low, the pinion will angle up and hit the transmission tunnel.

Take a look at the bottom of the oil pan and how close it is to the ground. Consider making a skid plate for it.

Qingdao

iTrader: (3)

Smaller tires will lower the car too.

Maxwedge

iTrader: (1)

Qingdao

iTrader: (3)

Its been mentioned before, but I think I remember the thread "slamed FB from Canada" I think he had a factory 12a blow through. I wanna say its in the build thread section.

Maxwedge

iTrader: (1)

That's this car..