Dom

I replaced the front rotors, inner, outer bearings and pads. The callipers were pushed back in with a C clamp. I bled all four corners.

The problem is that the both wheels don't turn freely.

Even though the callipers were pushed back in with the C clamp, could they be on the way to seizing up?

LongDuck

Did you 'pre-tension' your bearing nut and castellated nut correctly to the FSM numbers?

With the brake calipers removed, you need to be sure that your spindle friction is perfect with the new bearings before you start reinstalling brake components. Seized brake calipers would mean that you won't be able to compress them much at all without using a lot of force. For this reason, when I need to push the pistons back into the calipers, I use only a standard size socket driver with the handle in the piston, and the head in the palm of my hand. Remove the top cover of your brake MC reservoir (to release air pressure and make this easier), and then push slowly with about 20lbs of force until the piston is far enough back to reseat on the pads.

There's not much that you can do wrong with brake calipers and brake pads, but if you get the wheel bearings set incorrectly, this will result in one wheel turning more 'freely' than the other.

Run a quick search on 'wheel bearings' and you should come up with some recent posts from me and others about how to set the pretension on the new rotors. It's not hard, and can be done in 15 minutes on each side including wheel removal.

Some hints here:

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...=Wheel+bearing

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...=Wheel+bearing

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

i completely agree with LongDuck on this however there is something i would like to add. when you installed your new wheel bearings, did you make sure that you didnt tighten the nut over the bearing too much? it should be tight enough so that it will not come off and loose enough to where if you spin the wheel, it will turn freely and come to a stop on its own. i usually toghten the bearing until it puts pressure on the hub and stops the wheel from stopping naturally. after that, i back the nut off slowly, until the wheel spins and stops freely.

Dom

The bearings haven't been properly tensioned yet, since I haven't purchaced the scale yet. They were tightened just enough so that the wheel would spin freely a la mazdaverx713b. (The car is not driven, it's trapped in my back yard for now)

BUT since I HAD to use a 4 inch C-clamp to compress the calliper I'm writing those off.

Thanks a lot for the help and the links guys!

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

the calipers could have seized up, even though they were pushed in. you'd have to drive it to know if the brakes were dragging though.

Dom

LongDuck pushes the cylinders back in by hand, yet I had to use a 4 inch c-clamp and a lot work to get mine back in. That pretty much answers my question right there.

Why would I wait until I take it out of the back yard to see if it is seized?

At the very least, one is sticking pretty bad. Could I expect it to work itself free eventually?

Generally things don't self-repair, but I'm all ears with any experiences you may have to share with me.

Again, Thanks.

GavinJuice

Have you actually driven the car yet?

Dom

Yes but only in the back yard to get it out from under a tree. So I hardly touched the brakes. I did have to apply a little bit more pressure when I parked it atop 2X4s to prevent it from sinking in the ground. It took a few tries because she kept rolling off.

I'll properly pretension the bearings and give it a test drive around the block to see how everything works. But that'll take a few weeks.