Checked all of the the fuses and the rear tail lights have all new lights. Instrument cluster,front park lights and rear tail lights still will not work. Has anyone else had this problem? Oh and I've searched the forum archive and google...just a FYI

 

Could a bad combination switch make this happen?

 

Any time I have run into this, it was a fuse....... maybe take a double check??

 

I am having the same problem and i cant figure out whats wrong!

it started when i unplugged my head light and put it back in. Now my running lights, dash lights, fog lights, and third break light does not work. My head lights work and they will pop up but they will not go down.

I checked all my fuses three times and had someone else look at them and i also checked my fusible links with a voltmeter.

Im clueless

 

Now check this out. I put a new fuse in and as soon as I turned the park lights on it popped instantly. Would a bad fuseable link cause that?

 

which lights are my running lights when I look at the LEFT tail light assembly from the inside of the car?

My running lights are out.

Pictures with arrows would be nice.

Brake lights, reverse lights, turn signal lights, head lights are all good.

I'm going to remove the white thingy inback of the combi switch and hit it with contact cleaner.

 

I had the same issue, ended up being a little bit of corrosion in the fuse socket. I was checking the fuses without pulling them, so once I finally pulled on the fuse my lights came back on. Cleaned it with a thin nail file and no more problems.

 

Before, on a different car, cleaning the fuses solved the problem. In this car, it's only the running lights, and the license plate light are out. Everything else works including the horn. The 6 connector head light wire colors don't match what is in Clymer's and Hayne's manuals.

The car has been rebuilt after a firey wreck before I bought it. VIN says it's a '83, but 2 rims say 82, and the differential and drive shaft is from an 82.

Near as I can tell, the combi switch is NOT connecting like it should when the turn signal stalk is rotated, and if I jump connections (eliminate the combi switch), that doesn't work either. I don't see any obvious shorts.

Green Blue dash orange is always hot. The 3 thick red wires turn on the headlights if the turn signal stalk is rotated, or if jumped from the hot Green Blue dash orange wire. And it doesn't matter what position the ignition key is in. Jumping from the hot Green Blue dash orange wire to Red Blue or to the Red Green beeps the horn.

I'm about to run a wire from the battery (fuse protected) to a toggle switch and then to each running light.

 

 

Check the ground first.

 

thankyou Kansas, it is working now. According to schematics from the internet, AutoZone, Clymer's, and Hayne's manuals, every light has its own local ground. I labeled that picture for my own future reference of how it is supposed to be when things are working. And that hot, unless the headlights are on wire's color on my car, doesn't match the schematics.

Also, the wire harnesses are labeled in english, the differential had an english inventory number on it. Some metal body parts are heavily rusted, and there are some melted plastic and rubber hidden unless you take apart things. Tomorrow I'll post a pic of the driveshaft tunnel. The rear panel had some welding done on it, as well the wire harness has red spray on it.

 

Do the high beams work? When my switch went, the low beams didn't work but the highs did. If it were a bad ground, you would see power at the bulb when you turned the switch.

 

ess wooking now

yes, most the time the combi switch is bad when the hi's work but not the low's or vice versa

 

when i had the problem of highs working but not lows, it was just a matter of cleaning the contacts inside the switch.

 

It's been like that since I bought it in 1990