85 GSL-SE Clutch Issue
05-15-11, 06:18 PM
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85 GSL-SE Clutch Issue
Got my gsl-se about a week ago. Now i been driving it and the clutch didnt work when i jumped into it today. I went to the store came home about an hour later jumped in and it went to the floor. Checked the fluid and it was bone dry. Dont see any leaks. 3 days ago i went and got oil change they said they would check everything. guess not or it leaked all out. anyway i got some fluid tried to bleed it and nothing it goes to the flood. Looks like it has a new master but the slave is all rusted. What i dont get is it was working fine. So how exactly do i blead this thing maybe im doing it wrong. or is the master and slave gone. When i press the clutch in it goes down then i have to pull it back up it dont come up by itself .
05-15-11, 07:40 PM
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Try going over this checklist first to see if you can find anything, if it's bone dry, it's leaking SOMEWHERE.
Now as far as bleeding it's exactly like bleeding a brake system and will require 2 people unless you have uber1337 skills and or a vacuum bleeder.
Bleeding will require 2 people:
1. Fill reservoir
2. Assistant pushes pedal to the floor
3. Open the bleeder valve
4. Close bleeder [you can just use your hand the first few times just to get the majority of the air out]
5. Pump the pedal a few times and hold [you'll likely have to pull the pedal back until you get enough fluid in the line to build pressure]
6. Open bleeder
7. Close bleeder [repeat 5-7 as necessary]
8. Clean up the mess and take it for a test drive
Now as far as bleeding it's exactly like bleeding a brake system and will require 2 people unless you have uber1337 skills and or a vacuum bleeder.
If the clutch pedal is sticking to the floor then it's very very likely to be the hydraulics and as well will cause shifting problems particularly trying to shift into first or reverse from a dead stop.
1. Check your fluid level and condition
2. Look inside the footwell where the pedal pushrod goes into the back of the master cylinder and see if there is fluid leaking. [bad master cyl]
3. Look at the slave cylinder and pull the dust boot back and see if it is damp and if there is buildup and dampness around the slave itself [bad slave cyl]
4. Check the condition of the flex hose itself, the outer casing will likely be cracked but check for any tearing, dampness, leakage especially around the ends where it's bolted to the hardline or slave cyl.
5. If you can find someone to help you, open the hood, take the cap off the master cyl reservoir and have an assistant pump the clutch a few times then hold it down to the floor. Look carefully at the slave cylinder to see if it holds still in the extended position, if it begins to slowly return while the pedal is still depressed and there appears to be no leak at the slave cyl and the boot is dry and clean. Repeat the pedal pump and hold and this time look at the master cyl reservoir, watch the fluid level and see if while the pedal is held down to see if the fluid returns back on its own, if it does this is a sign of an internal leak in the master.
6. If no leaks or signs of failure are apparent, flush out the fluid and lines with new fluid and see if that helps.
As always it is the BEST practice to replace everything together so you do not fix one thing then have another fail a week or two later because usually when one fails, the other is bound to be on it's way.
RockAuto.com generally has the best prices available for all the parts you will need, try not to get the cheapest master as even though it will last you a long time, you still want a quality product.
When I did my hydraulics I went ahead and replaced both master and slave, and picked up a stainless braided clutch line from Mazdatrix for about $25-30 shipped and IMO well worth it.
1. Check your fluid level and condition
2. Look inside the footwell where the pedal pushrod goes into the back of the master cylinder and see if there is fluid leaking. [bad master cyl]
3. Look at the slave cylinder and pull the dust boot back and see if it is damp and if there is buildup and dampness around the slave itself [bad slave cyl]
4. Check the condition of the flex hose itself, the outer casing will likely be cracked but check for any tearing, dampness, leakage especially around the ends where it's bolted to the hardline or slave cyl.
5. If you can find someone to help you, open the hood, take the cap off the master cyl reservoir and have an assistant pump the clutch a few times then hold it down to the floor. Look carefully at the slave cylinder to see if it holds still in the extended position, if it begins to slowly return while the pedal is still depressed and there appears to be no leak at the slave cyl and the boot is dry and clean. Repeat the pedal pump and hold and this time look at the master cyl reservoir, watch the fluid level and see if while the pedal is held down to see if the fluid returns back on its own, if it does this is a sign of an internal leak in the master.
6. If no leaks or signs of failure are apparent, flush out the fluid and lines with new fluid and see if that helps.
As always it is the BEST practice to replace everything together so you do not fix one thing then have another fail a week or two later because usually when one fails, the other is bound to be on it's way.
RockAuto.com generally has the best prices available for all the parts you will need, try not to get the cheapest master as even though it will last you a long time, you still want a quality product.
When I did my hydraulics I went ahead and replaced both master and slave, and picked up a stainless braided clutch line from Mazdatrix for about $25-30 shipped and IMO well worth it.
1. Fill reservoir
2. Assistant pushes pedal to the floor
3. Open the bleeder valve
4. Close bleeder [you can just use your hand the first few times just to get the majority of the air out]
5. Pump the pedal a few times and hold [you'll likely have to pull the pedal back until you get enough fluid in the line to build pressure]
6. Open bleeder
7. Close bleeder [repeat 5-7 as necessary]
8. Clean up the mess and take it for a test drive
05-17-11, 10:02 AM
#3
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Ok Changed the Slave Took one off of my parts car. But now it seems like i didnt get all of the air out of it I went and bleed the line 20 times every time i get in i have to pump the clutch to build up pressure. Is there any other way of bleeding it or just keep doing what 5-7 says?
05-17-11, 10:42 AM
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You may have a bad seal in the master cylinder. If you don't get any fluid out of the slave when you press on the clutch pedal, then I would replace the MC.
.
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05-18-11, 12:45 PM
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Just like Kentetsu & KansasCity said - check for MC leaks & replace - mine leaked behind & beneath dash, fluid was underneath the carpet so I didn't see it at first either.
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