hornbm

well, the time is comming up when I will have to do somthing about this so i'll get it out in the open.

My 85 GS's rear end seems to be leaking from everywhere it can possibly leak from. It also made a wierd "clunking" noise when the car was driveable.

My question was what should I do about it?

I am in the process of swapping in a 89 13b motor, so I will be throwing quite a bit more than the 100hp it had at stock.

Since I have a pretty tight budget here, I dont know if the unit is fixable, or if mabey I should go and get a GSL rear end. But then I have to get new rear rotors, pads and other misc. stuff.

I would have at a MAX of $300 to play around with here.
What is the best option to do here?

stinkfist

$300 should be enough to do the swap. You will need that rear end to use the power that you are adding. Just shop around and be patient. I picked up a perfect rear end for $250. only had 30k miles on it and the rotors where in very good shape. I just needed brake pads.

$300 should be enough to get one in great shape. Make sure you get the parking brake cables with the rear end. yours won't work with it.

Good luck,
Mike

gamble302

yeah 300 is moooore than enough
and stinkfist that avatar rocks lol that shows nuts

hornbm

When would you say in my swap would be the best time to swap the rear end?

currently the car has no engine or transmission, I'm changing from an automatic tranny to a manual.

From what it looks like, the parking brake cables would be really hard to get at once the transmission is in.


Also, I haven't ever dealt with a limited slip rear end.

Is there anything special i need to do to it or to keep it in good shape? I'm not even sure hgow one of these works, so I'm not sure where to get started...

82transam

iTrader: (18)

Use good fluid made for LSD's to keep it in good shape. You don't have to change the e-brake cable so that isn't a concern. $300 is plenty for the rear swap, I got my 84 GSL rear, with 91k on it for $200, he also threw in the master cyl and prop valve too. I haven't gotton around to installing it yet, but when I do I'll be installing a new master cyl with it, just to be safe, but even then the total would be around $300, so you should be set.

stinkfist

The only reason you would not need the E-brake cables would be if you do not intend on using the E-brake.

You will need the 2 cables that hook to the calipers. They do not connect the same way on drums. the cable that runs from the handle does not have to be replaced.

It is a simple bolt in swap. You really can't tell if one is good or not outside of the car. Not without tearing it down. Try to get one with relitivly low milage and you should be fine. Usually, anything under 100k miles should be in good shape.

Once you get it in, Just use a quality synthetic gear oil and you will be set. Something like Redline or Royal Purple is great.


gamble302: Thanks man! That show does kick ***. Frylock is the coolest!

82transam

iTrader: (18)

sorry, thats what i meant, the cable from the handle, the two short ones that actually connect to the brakes are different. aqua teen hunger force is sweet as hell.

gamble302

everything he said is correct, including frylock being the coolest