Originally posted by DT98
The engine runs fine while dribbling gas in the carb. If I connect a fuel line to the carb, fuel over flows like the floats are stuck down.

***I believe that the rubber tips on the needles are old and not supple anymore. They are sealing about as good as rough-cut nails!
Varnish accumulation from the years of sitting is enough to make you need to rebuild that carb anyway.


1) With the key on, there is no fuel from the supply line. I know I should check the fuel filter. Is the filter at the tank?
***There is a pump relay that comes on when ignition is registered. Check fuses, ect.

2) Is the fuel pump manual or electric?
***'Lectric. You might find that it's old and tired. It may be only up to 90% of what it used to be- And what it used to be was marginal at best.
mar3 recommends a good Carter pump.

3) Where is the pump located?
***Behind the drivers side rear wheel, along w/ the filter.
Change that filter!

4) I have put several gallons of gas in the tank but the gas guage does not move. What should I check?
***All fuses should be checked anyway - Especially in a car that sat for years. The elecrtrical couplers crumble to bits in neglected cars that sit in direct sunlight. Don't know if that's yer deal, but you can imagine the havoc a few exposed wires grounding on the chassis can have! (As peejay says, "Ask me how I know!")
I think I've read here that the resistance range that the fuel gauge operates on is different on later models. Just something to keep in mind if it comes to replacing it. Don't know if it's even true.
I'm inclined to believe that sludge, varnish, or rust is stopping the float travel on the sender unit. I would worry about it last, as it might just work itself out when the gas has sloshed around in there enough. (???)

5) I assume the carb needs reworking. I used to work at Holley carb in the 70 and I've never seen so many lines and connections to a carb. Dumb question of the day.. how does the carb come off the engine? Wow, lots of stuff!
***You'll find it. I don't have a picture to post. The nuts are reall knuckle-busters.
Obviously you need to disconnect the sub-zero cable, choke cable, and throttle cable. But don't forget to disconnect the oil lines and the oil metering pump (OMP) linkage rod.

You wanna really nip another future problem in the bud right now?...The car's been sitting, and all rubber parts are dry-rotted at least to a point. I'll put a dollar on the fact that your car will start putting out just a bit of white smoke in the mornings. There are whole threads on this alone, but quickly - In between the manifold (intake) and engine is the gasket, along with two silver dollar sized rubber "O" rings. There is coolant circulating through the manifold around the primary runners to keep the mixture temp consistant. These "O" rings rot and coolant gets into the intake.

I mention this to you now because the gasket set costs less than $10 or 12$ (I think) to be shipped to your house from MazdaTrix, AND it's easier to take off the carby along with the manifold as a whole unit.
You'll have to drain the radiator at least down to that level.
To keep the "O" rings in place during reassembly, you may need to use a tiny dab if vaseline.




The reason I stopped driving the 7 was due to a stumble in the carb on take off. It was like the accelerator pump was not working (if this were a holley double pumper).
***Lots of good carb guys here. We can get that sorted out with you after you get it running.

If I can get fuel flowing and the carb rebuilt, all she needs is a fresh coat of white paint to replace the oxy paint on her now.

I hope you all tolerate noobs. I wish I could contribute but know zip about rotarys.

DT98 in Nashville, TN ... anyone know any good RX7 wrenches in Nashville?
Thanks...