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Hi everyone! First post here. Back to the RX-7 world after a long break. I just got an 84 GSLSE with 106k miles on it. It was running fine when I got it, but the battery seemed weak. So, I put a new one in, and it started right up, but I noticed some arcing between the one of the coil wires and the coil. So, I bought new coils, cap, rotor, wires, and NGK plugs. Installed them all, and no start. I've since swapped back to the old cap/rotor/coils (I tossed the old plugs and wires) and still no start. It cranks fine, and I know I'm getting fuel, but I'm not getting any spark. Any ideas?
Where was it arcing to the coils? What coils did you use to replace the OEM? Do you still have the OEM coils you could install and test?
Aftermarket coils have to allow mounting horizontally or they will short out internally due to oil seepage and not work. The Mitsubishi OEM coils are hard to beat, designed for this system, and last to this day. MSD Blaster Coils can be retrofit if needed, but must be the horizontal mount rating. I've been running MSD Blaster Coils for 15-20 years now. My OEM still worked fine when I replaced them way back when.
Show us a pic of the engine bay. Maybe there's something else going on.
1. check for spark at the lead plugs.
2. check to see if you flooded it. (if it was not warm when you noticed the arcing and you shut it off, then maybe .... especially if you were previously driving on a weak battery)
1. check for spark at the lead plugs.
2. check to see if you flooded it. (if it was not warm when you noticed the arcing and you shut it off, then maybe .... especially if you were previously driving on a weak battery)
What's the best way to check spark these days? When I was younger, we used a paper clip in the lead and turned the engine over. Not sure how smart that was...
Where was it arcing to the coils? What coils did you use to replace the OEM? Do you still have the OEM coils you could install and test?
Aftermarket coils have to allow mounting horizontally or they will short out internally due to oil seepage and not work. The Mitsubishi OEM coils are hard to beat, designed for this system, and last to this day. MSD Blaster Coils can be retrofit if needed, but must be the horizontal mount rating. I've been running MSD Blaster Coils for 15-20 years now. My OEM still worked fine when I replaced them way back when.
Show us a pic of the engine bay. Maybe there's something else going on.
I put the old coils/cap/rotor back on and it still not working. Arcing marked in pics. Let me know what you think. Thanks!
What's the best way to check spark these days? When I was younger, we used a paper clip in the lead and turned the engine over. Not sure how smart that was...
i can't say what is best, but ... i usually remove the plug, then put it back in the wire. i then ground the plug to the strut tower, near one of the studs and crank the engine.
when you saw it arcing, was the wire completely connected? another thought is maybe you can swap the coil wires and see if the arcing moves with the wire.
From the factory, the coil located nearest the FRONT of the car is the TRAILING coil. Without tracing your high tension lead hookups visually from across the internet - take another look and make sure the coil leads go where they're supposed to on the Distributor Cap. Also, without going out in the garage and looking (*because it's 110F out there...), make sure your EGI Trigger spade connector is on the TRAILING coil, or you won't ever fire the Fuel Injectors, which could explain your inability to start.
My $$$ is on you switching some leads when you replaced the coil wires , or when replacing the coils. Intuitively, one would expect opposite of how they're mounted from the factory...
What has 2 thumbs and for the first time in 30 years put a distributor cap on 180 degrees off? THIS GUY! Thanks for the responses guys. Its running better now than before, but its struggling to hold idle when I pull up to lights etc. Hoping an idle or TPS adjustment will solve that. Now that I have that going, here's a pic for you guys.
Erratic idle is typically either vacuum leaks, a TPS that needs to be adjusted, or the Bypass Air Control Valve needs to be cleaned. Good luck, and thanks for reporting back on the cause!
Erratic idle is typically either vacuum leaks, a TPS that needs to be adjusted, or the Bypass Air Control Valve needs to be cleaned. Good luck, and thanks for reporting back on the cause!
Figured TPS might be a possibility. It's not erratic per se, it just drops a bit low on coasts to a stop. Sometimes it stalls, sometimes it doesn't. If I get it TO idle, it stays there just fine. Any thoughts on that condition?
Nice car. I usually only see those chrome side panels on the early cars. Was it there since new or did you add them?
I'm not sure, but as far as I know, the car is just the way it came. It's had 2 owners since new, both in the same neighborhood and long time friends. It's, as far as I can tell, a true survivor and driver. It needs a few things to bring it back to 100%, but its in really good shape overall. I'm going to rebuild the suspension, make sure all the maintenance is done, and then just go have fun with it.
