Gsl-se no spark
05-02-15, 10:23 PM
#1
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Gsl-se no spark
Ok so my gsl-se was running back in November when i decided to go and mess it up. I tried to swap in gm hei ignitors and aftermarket coils and i have not gotten any TRAILING spark since. Ok so i have checked the wiring and im getting power to the ignitors and coils. I have about 12 ignitors swapped them all and nothing. I have tried about 6 coils also and still nothing. The distributor and the cap and rotor and the plugs and wires were all working fine when the car was driven into the garage. I have tried all new plug wires also. Any Ideas? Hopefully i can get this figured out asap.
Thanks,
Thanks,
05-04-15, 11:10 PM
#4
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
Is it safe to say you've installed the factory ignition system as it should be?
The factory ignition is good enough for street driving and modifications you made to get power to the coil on plug may not have helped things. If you've not done so already, revert to the standard layout and then go from there.
If you have, reply back and we'll try to help you troubleshoot,
The factory ignition is good enough for street driving and modifications you made to get power to the coil on plug may not have helped things. If you've not done so already, revert to the standard layout and then go from there.
If you have, reply back and we'll try to help you troubleshoot,
05-07-15, 09:40 PM
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Thanks for the help everyone!
Is it safe to say you've installed the factory ignition system as it should be?
The factory ignition is good enough for street driving and modifications you made to get power to the coil on plug may not have helped things. If you've not done so already, revert to the standard layout and then go from there.
If you have, reply back and we'll try to help you troubleshoot,
The factory ignition is good enough for street driving and modifications you made to get power to the coil on plug may not have helped things. If you've not done so already, revert to the standard layout and then go from there.
If you have, reply back and we'll try to help you troubleshoot,
05-08-15, 02:06 AM
#6
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
I've never seen a coil fail. If you've tried 3-4 and none of them work, there's something wrong with your wiring setup. The ignitors can go bad, but if they worked before they're probably just fine.
When you switched over to the GM HEI, you probably changed the wires around when you swapped it back. First things first - go back to your original components that worked fine when you drove it into the garage. I always label the parts on my car with a magic marker, or sometimes with a white-out pen - #1 for the original part, #2 for the replacement, etc. - so I can tell when I swap things out to troubleshoot. If you can, go back to #1 on everything that was on it when it ran.
Now, with the ignitors that DID work, and the coils that DID work - everything is basically there. The only thing you need to change is the wiring setup, i.e., where each of the spade connectors goes. Alright, I'm going downstairs and out to the garage at midnight just to take a picture for you so hang on a minute or two...
Okay, I'm back - have a look at this:
What you're seeing here is the stock -SE setup:
1) The two connectors with the rubber boots are your POSITIVE leads from the battery (that's why they're covered). They go on the "+" side of the coils, which are to the left in this picture.
2) The two connectors with the plastic spade terminals both have a yellow wire with green stripe and red trace - these go to the ignitors and are on the right, or negative "-" side of each coil. The White connector is for Leading (on the Left), and the Blue connector is for Trailing (on the right, and closer to the front of the car) - yeah, this seems backwards, but that's how Mazda did it.
3) The other wire with the blue crimp terminal you see here (I crimped it on there) is the Injector trigger to the ECU, and attaches to the Trailing, Negative terminal. It's conveniently located on the spade on the top.
Disregard the rest of the wiring you see there, and all the dirt and grime, and the extra fuse holders for my driving lights, and the Oscillator relay which doesn't work. But that's essentially it. The ignitors can't be done wrong, as they both have rubber boots over their connectors and can only be installed one way - unless you cut the wiring off...
So, go make yours look like this and then reply back.
When you switched over to the GM HEI, you probably changed the wires around when you swapped it back. First things first - go back to your original components that worked fine when you drove it into the garage. I always label the parts on my car with a magic marker, or sometimes with a white-out pen - #1 for the original part, #2 for the replacement, etc. - so I can tell when I swap things out to troubleshoot. If you can, go back to #1 on everything that was on it when it ran.
Now, with the ignitors that DID work, and the coils that DID work - everything is basically there. The only thing you need to change is the wiring setup, i.e., where each of the spade connectors goes. Alright, I'm going downstairs and out to the garage at midnight just to take a picture for you so hang on a minute or two...
Okay, I'm back - have a look at this:
What you're seeing here is the stock -SE setup:
1) The two connectors with the rubber boots are your POSITIVE leads from the battery (that's why they're covered). They go on the "+" side of the coils, which are to the left in this picture.
2) The two connectors with the plastic spade terminals both have a yellow wire with green stripe and red trace - these go to the ignitors and are on the right, or negative "-" side of each coil. The White connector is for Leading (on the Left), and the Blue connector is for Trailing (on the right, and closer to the front of the car) - yeah, this seems backwards, but that's how Mazda did it.
3) The other wire with the blue crimp terminal you see here (I crimped it on there) is the Injector trigger to the ECU, and attaches to the Trailing, Negative terminal. It's conveniently located on the spade on the top.
Disregard the rest of the wiring you see there, and all the dirt and grime, and the extra fuse holders for my driving lights, and the Oscillator relay which doesn't work. But that's essentially it. The ignitors can't be done wrong, as they both have rubber boots over their connectors and can only be installed one way - unless you cut the wiring off...
So, go make yours look like this and then reply back.
05-25-15, 11:52 AM
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Ok thanks for the help. I went through the wiring and made sure it looked exactly like your pic and i still have nothing. Not sure what to do next.
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05-26-15, 02:01 AM
#8
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
Welcome back. Need more information to help out;
1) Does it crank at all - just not fire? The cranking will allow air in and provide an injector pulse to the ECU, along with firing order for spark.
2) Does it even try to start? Does it stumble, or rev high, or not even attempt to fire?
3) Checked fuel pump working? Under the AFM is a green plug which, when you short the 2 leads together, it will turn on the fuel pump with ignition key 'on' (not 'start'). This is used to test fuel injector rail integrity, but would also tell whether your fuel pump is pumping.
4) Checked Air Flow Meter is working? If you remove the air filter box and filter, you can stick a pencil or chopstick down into the opening and move the AFM door back and forth - it's spring-loaded to close automatically. If it moves freely and returns to closed properly, it may be just fine. Without the fuel door opening, there will be no fuel from the pump - as the pump is enabled by the AFM door opening.
5) Battery in good shape? Cranking fast enough to get good compression on the engine will require a solid battery. Too slow and not enough compression to start, especially with an older, tired engine.
6) Cap & Rotor replaced recently? After the spring thaw, a lot of people report problems with poor idle, no start, etc. and is easily cured with a new cap and rotor because theirs got too cold and cracked at some point. Cheap insurance and worth a try.
7) Move any ground wires? Grounding should be at the driver's shock tower (front) to the back of the engine block via a transmission mounting bolt, which also holds the trans wiring harness in place. You need good grounds for everything to work, including your alternator connections and the ground attached to the RE-EGI box - it's only a mount to the aluminum manifold, but grounds the alternator.
Start with those and we'll see where we go from here.
1) Does it crank at all - just not fire? The cranking will allow air in and provide an injector pulse to the ECU, along with firing order for spark.
2) Does it even try to start? Does it stumble, or rev high, or not even attempt to fire?
3) Checked fuel pump working? Under the AFM is a green plug which, when you short the 2 leads together, it will turn on the fuel pump with ignition key 'on' (not 'start'). This is used to test fuel injector rail integrity, but would also tell whether your fuel pump is pumping.
4) Checked Air Flow Meter is working? If you remove the air filter box and filter, you can stick a pencil or chopstick down into the opening and move the AFM door back and forth - it's spring-loaded to close automatically. If it moves freely and returns to closed properly, it may be just fine. Without the fuel door opening, there will be no fuel from the pump - as the pump is enabled by the AFM door opening.
5) Battery in good shape? Cranking fast enough to get good compression on the engine will require a solid battery. Too slow and not enough compression to start, especially with an older, tired engine.
6) Cap & Rotor replaced recently? After the spring thaw, a lot of people report problems with poor idle, no start, etc. and is easily cured with a new cap and rotor because theirs got too cold and cracked at some point. Cheap insurance and worth a try.
7) Move any ground wires? Grounding should be at the driver's shock tower (front) to the back of the engine block via a transmission mounting bolt, which also holds the trans wiring harness in place. You need good grounds for everything to work, including your alternator connections and the ground attached to the RE-EGI box - it's only a mount to the aluminum manifold, but grounds the alternator.
Start with those and we'll see where we go from here.