84 gsl-se knocking
#1
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84 gsl-se knocking
what causes the gsl-se to make a knocking sound like if it was comming from the intake under acceleration with or without load it does this i also get a bug down around 2k leaving making the car idle around to 2k ?
what could this be??? any help would be greatly apreatiated
what could this be??? any help would be greatly apreatiated
#6
Rotary Enthusiast
u didn't put any high octane gas in there, right?
If not, i would check the AFM buy removing the airbox and checking to see if the gate opens up freely
If not, i would check the AFM buy removing the airbox and checking to see if the gate opens up freely
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: no the gas we put in it is just regular gas pump the cheapest one i kow rotaries like cheap gas hehe i know my second gen did this a while back but i cant remeber what it was sinse just after i figured it out the engine went kaput hhehe but it seriusly sound like like precombustion hapening on the intake
the guys that had the car before us had the plug wires wrong and the car will idle very ruff so we put the new plugs and corected the lug wires but now we get the knocking sound from the intake
the guys that had the car before us had the plug wires wrong and the car will idle very ruff so we put the new plugs and corected the lug wires but now we get the knocking sound from the intake
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#8
Rotary Enthusiast
so you are sure you have the plug wires right?
Intake system has only couple of moving parts: 1. AFM, 2. Butterflies in the TB. and then you have the actuators for 5th and 6th port, but since you have problem at 2000RPM, it's not the actuators.
Have you checked your timing?
Intake system has only couple of moving parts: 1. AFM, 2. Butterflies in the TB. and then you have the actuators for 5th and 6th port, but since you have problem at 2000RPM, it's not the actuators.
Have you checked your timing?
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that is what we are going to check tommorow we are going to pull the ignition all the way out and confirm on the 2 marks the check with timing light as well
like i said the wires were crossed meaning t1 was in t2 spot and and L1 was in l2 spot like i said crossed
i sure dont know how the previous owner got it to come close to idle at all i am sure thats why the car has all the huff and puff on the idle
like i said the wires were crossed meaning t1 was in t2 spot and and L1 was in l2 spot like i said crossed
i sure dont know how the previous owner got it to come close to idle at all i am sure thats why the car has all the huff and puff on the idle
#10
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Just for reference, the plug wires should be (As you face the plug side of the engine):
Top Left - Trailing 1
Bottom Left - Leading 1
Top Right - Trailing 2
Bottom Right - Leading 2
And the coils should be:
Closest to radiator/front of car - Trailing
Furthest from radiator - Leading
Isint that the way it should be guys?
~T.J.
PS - Thanks to whoever the engine in the pic belongs to .
Top Left - Trailing 1
Bottom Left - Leading 1
Top Right - Trailing 2
Bottom Right - Leading 2
And the coils should be:
Closest to radiator/front of car - Trailing
Furthest from radiator - Leading
Isint that the way it should be guys?
~T.J.
PS - Thanks to whoever the engine in the pic belongs to .
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i know how they go like i said the previus owner had the backwards i changed the to the correct position
but it wont idle right and it had that thumping sound comming from the intake
but it wont idle right and it had that thumping sound comming from the intake
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NickNac113
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