83 rx7 make it through an ohio winter?
#1
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83 rx7 make it through an ohio winter?
My dad wants to buy this 83 rx7 with 36k miles on it for a really good price.
He'd buy this for me for a daily driver, aka winter
Think it would make it in the winter if i put some sandbags in the back and smacked some blizzaks on there?
He'd buy this for me for a daily driver, aka winter
Think it would make it in the winter if i put some sandbags in the back and smacked some blizzaks on there?
#2
damn hippies
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salt isnt good for them-yours is one wheel drive...not very good tracktion,a light car with a decent size ground clearence+wind=sliding..i drove mine threw a new york winter and its something i would never do again+ i had all seasons on it
#3
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I was wondering, what's a good tire for an IL winter? (Northern IL) We get some pretty nasty winters here sometimes, that is, nasty for around here.
Any suggestions?
Any suggestions?
#4
Old [Sch|F]ool
Open diff is the only way to go in the winter. The rear end doesn't slide sideways if only one tire is spinning, and the car is easier to park and whatnot. Limited slip diffs in the back are "tricky" to drive in the snow, hell even in the rain.
I never once got my open diffed RX-7 stuck in the three winters that I had it. Never once spun off the road, never once looped it.
Do NOT put sandbags in the car. That is the opposite of what you want. Adding mass means you are stressing the contact patches more which means the car slides easier.
But all that aside, only 36k on an '83? The car might have a lot of problems from sitting. Greatest problem of which is that rotaries don't like not being driven.
Also, if it is a rust free southern car, expect it to last three or four winters before the bodyshell pretty much disintegrates.
I never once got my open diffed RX-7 stuck in the three winters that I had it. Never once spun off the road, never once looped it.
Do NOT put sandbags in the car. That is the opposite of what you want. Adding mass means you are stressing the contact patches more which means the car slides easier.
But all that aside, only 36k on an '83? The car might have a lot of problems from sitting. Greatest problem of which is that rotaries don't like not being driven.
Also, if it is a rust free southern car, expect it to last three or four winters before the bodyshell pretty much disintegrates.
#5
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I've been driving my '83 RX-7 during the winter for years here in montana. I've been through HUGE blizzards, climbed steep, slick mountain passes and passed many a four wheel drive that was stuck in the ditch. I've never bit the ditch for seven winters now. Driving is tricky but fun.
For tires I used Cooper all seasons. They worked great. As far as rust is concerned, my car has not a bit. Not even under the storage bins. They key is to wash often.
For tires I used Cooper all seasons. They worked great. As far as rust is concerned, my car has not a bit. Not even under the storage bins. They key is to wash often.
#6
Old [Sch|F]ool
Yep, I was washing twice a week, fat lot of good it did.
I forgot to mention tires... every autumn I would buy four new all-seasons. 13" tires are cheap - I really recommend Goodyear Clubs for all-season tires - and that way you have new, soft rubber in the winter, then you have newish, soft rubber in the spring, then you have half worn, soft rubber in the summer, then you have 2/3rds worn, losing compliance rubber in the autumn rains to remind you that you need to buy new tires before winter.
I forgot to mention tires... every autumn I would buy four new all-seasons. 13" tires are cheap - I really recommend Goodyear Clubs for all-season tires - and that way you have new, soft rubber in the winter, then you have newish, soft rubber in the spring, then you have half worn, soft rubber in the summer, then you have 2/3rds worn, losing compliance rubber in the autumn rains to remind you that you need to buy new tires before winter.
#7
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I drove my first RX7 (still got it) in the winter. It worked better than my wife's front wheel drive Tercel. I put mud/snow tires with a lowered pressure on the back and two sand bags over the rear to help mash the tread into the snow and slush. Whenever I started to spin a little on take off, I would start in 2nd gear with great results. Before the snow flies, get the car oiled underneath and in the key rust prone areas.
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#8
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Im debating wheather to sell my honda, I.e. the car i would be driving instead of my 7 ( wich i havent even driven yet) through the winter, if i decide to drive the Seven through the winter here in SW MO, what should I get done to it befor it snows, or I blow all my money on a carb or something like that. im talkin like anti-rust stuff, i dont want my new toy to go away, just cause i wanted to drive it.
#10
Old [Sch|F]ool
The problem is, if the car is from an area where cars don't generally rust out, the paint gets scratches on the undercarriage from rocks and whatnot. Also on the front of the hood and the lower sides of the car.
Then you come up here where they put down so much salt the roads turn white when they're dry and the underground power grid suffers from random shorts. Instantly attacks the many scratches, washing doesn't help unless you can wash the car as you are driving it. Result: Car rusts away in a "surprisingly short" amount of time.
So, if you have a cherry car from the South or from the SW, don't bring it up here and drive it in the winter. It *will* crumble unless you strip down the car and paint it on a rotisserie.
Then you come up here where they put down so much salt the roads turn white when they're dry and the underground power grid suffers from random shorts. Instantly attacks the many scratches, washing doesn't help unless you can wash the car as you are driving it. Result: Car rusts away in a "surprisingly short" amount of time.
So, if you have a cherry car from the South or from the SW, don't bring it up here and drive it in the winter. It *will* crumble unless you strip down the car and paint it on a rotisserie.
#11
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the car im looking at is a GSL 36k miles, ohio car. its basically considered a southern car, bcuase its never been driven in the winters. Its a real cheap price and my dad likes the styling. He wants to buy it for me and I have no problem with it. I already have a winter car (93 accord) but my mom would rather drive that than her car.
My dads also in the process of buying a completly built and fully restored 56 chevrolet. Hes on a buying spree :O
My dads also in the process of buying a completly built and fully restored 56 chevrolet. Hes on a buying spree :O
#12
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my first winter in Minnestoa I drove a GSL the whole winter. It was a mild winter that year. I had to take road trips of over 200 miles sometimes. Around town it wasn't to bad. Out on the interstate in Bum-**** North Dakota was terrible. Just wait till the plows go through and chill. If you are late for work just show everyone the car you drive.
#13
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forgot me mention. I use the truck bedliner in a can stuff to line my wheel wells. those sucker will rust through if you are carefull. The bedliner stuff is like 2.99 a can and 2 or 3 cans will get you a good covering.
#15
Old [Sch|F]ool
expl0d, you drive that car in the winter, it will crumble in 3-4 years. i can guarantee it.
plus it's a GSL so it should have a limited slip diff. Have fun driving it!
plus it's a GSL so it should have a limited slip diff. Have fun driving it!
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