Hello, I am about to swap my entire drivetrain with newer parts because one, my engine is blown, and two I am doing an A/T to M/T swap. I currently have an 82 gsl and the engine and transmission I am using are from an 83. The 83 engine going in my car has the "beehive" style oil cooler. (Oil Cooler right where the oil filter is) The engine in the car now does not have that, so to my understanding, the oil cooler on my car right now is located somewhere else? I am assuming near the front by the radiator. Anyways my question is when swapping the engine do I just get rid of the external oil cooler and the lines that lead it to the engine? Do I have to source new lines to support the beehive-style oil cooler? Thanks, any help is appreciated.

 

the easier route might be to just run the '83 engine as is. if i recall, there was a heater hose that needed to be replaced/modified, but that was it. however, the choice is yours though. you have everything needed to convert the engine to run the cooler on the car - just maybe get some new crush washers for the lines.

oh, and yes, the cooler is under the radiator.

 

I would keep the front mount oil cooler. Use the oil pedestal from the 1982 and cap the coolant T port on the rear iron of the 1983.

 

Front Mount Oil Cooler (FMOC) is far more efficient at heat transfer away from the engine, and is why Mazda chose to move away from the Beehive in later generations, for better cooling on the 13b. The best decision would be to take advantage of the FMOC, get some stainless braided lines and -AN adapters from Racing Beat and take advantage of the best setup for engine longevity. You won't regret it,

 

Okay, before I go on I want to apologize for my ignorance but I am not experienced with running lines or -AN fittings or what I would need to connect to make this work. I would take a line from the FMOC and run it to the engine? Where exactly would it connect? Also what is the oil pedastal?

 

The 1983 currently in the car has a non-beehive oil pedestal. It's what the oil filter screws into.

As for the An lines, for now just use the current lines or purchase them from here: https://www.racingbeat.com/RX7-1975-...tem/11907.html

You can also make your own -10AN lines. This is what I do. Cost me about $80 in parts.

 

How do you go about making those lines yourself? I would be okay with buying those from racing beat but I am also about to go to college so I am on a budget.

 

Just use your old ones right now.

There are all kinds of resources on the internet that tell how to make these. I like nylon braded v.s. stainless steal.

First lesson for college, researching a subject is a must have skill.

https://www.google.com/search?q=How+...zRtAac8ImADA22

 

Can't really go wrong, either way. The Beehive continues to get a bad rap. It was introduced in 83 for emissions reasons on the carbureted 12A engines only. The 13B was already fuel injected and the extra cost for the Beehive was unnecessary. Beehives are fairly bulletproof, and work well.