79 SA Idler arm
Fonzi of Happy Days during high school play dress rehearsal: "What he said". 
I second Jeff20B's answer. MOOG is the way to go. You'll prolly find the best prices on Rock Auto, although a google search may find something a buck or two cheaper. Rock Auto usually is hard to beat though.

I second Jeff20B's answer. MOOG is the way to go. You'll prolly find the best prices on Rock Auto, although a google search may find something a buck or two cheaper. Rock Auto usually is hard to beat though.
Agreed that the Moog unit is an excellent upgrade from the original exposed bushing unit.
Replacing the idler arm will give you the opportunity to inspect the ball joints, tie rod ends, sway bar bushings, tension rod bushings, sway bar end links, struts, springs, and pitman arm. Feel free to inspect all steering and suspension components while you're in there. Be careful though, once you start replacing components you will find that you will be wanting to replace everything, lol.
Replacing the idler arm will give you the opportunity to inspect the ball joints, tie rod ends, sway bar bushings, tension rod bushings, sway bar end links, struts, springs, and pitman arm. Feel free to inspect all steering and suspension components while you're in there. Be careful though, once you start replacing components you will find that you will be wanting to replace everything, lol.
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RB LCAs, and new tierods (inner and outer).
Mine has 200 miles of some straight and mostly turning driving now. It's fully broken in because it feels more like a stocker again, but still tighter than stock. It also gives plenty of room for a turbo!
Look around, some of those parts are made by the same manufacturer. I replaced the pitman arm on my 80 and the O'Reiley's part number was the same as the Moog and was almost half the price
If you run a header on your SA like I have been doing for the last 33 years, you may find that radiant heat from the header will cook the plastic in an idler arm assembly with sustained hard running. It is not much of an issue on a street driver RX.
I fabricated a small heat shield from thin sheet aluminum so that it would stand off and leave about a 1/2" air gap from the idler arm, and mounted it using the two big idler arm bolts. This stopped heat issues on the idler arm.
I fabricated a small heat shield from thin sheet aluminum so that it would stand off and leave about a 1/2" air gap from the idler arm, and mounted it using the two big idler arm bolts. This stopped heat issues on the idler arm.
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