ok, ive heard of wiring them open, removing them or replacing them with pineapple sleeves, which mod will give the most power? what are the pros/cons?

 

oh and the air pump opperated ports...

 

Ive been thinking the same. Ive read good and bad about the pinapple sleeves (maybe the next time I take off my manifold). Wired open is a waste IMO, so I'm left with the airpump mod, I think its less intrussive and more reliable than the others. Which way have you been leaning?

 

i really have no idea...

 

If i were you, id buy the Pineapple sleeves, have them install them for you. Then hook them up to your cat/presilencer. When they are working properly they are best. Wiring open gives better top end, but less low, leaving shut gives more low end, less high end. Working properly gives u good high, and low end.

 

hook up to cat/presilencer?

 

thats hwo they are supposed to hook up. a pipe come soff the cat or presilencer and u hook that to 2 hoses that go into your lower intake. When u get enoguh backpressure they open

 

really? i dont think i have those...i have one pipe coming from the cat from the air pump, maybe that why it seems to bog sometimes...are you sure? its an 85 13B efi

 

i also only have one cat

 

The best mod is to remove them completely.

 

wont this kill lowend?

 

bump!

 

Ok man, I'm in this mess too, so I'll tell what what I plan on doing. First DO NOT remove the sleeves. Its the worst thing you could do. It helps nothing.

I'd give the pineapple sleeves a try. As far as getting them open, I have a problem with the air pump method.... you have to use the air pump. I'd rather get it out of there all together with the ACV. I've allready done that.

In the stock GSL-SE, what you have is the air injection line that goes to the cat. On that line is a one way check valve. Slightly past the check valve is a T. The T goes to the line to give pressure to the 6 port acutators.

When the car is normally running, air is being injected into the cat. However when the car is or close to WOT, the ACV, does not pump air into the cat. As a result exhaust back pressure builds up, and creeps into the T I talked about earlier. When this pressure reaches about 2 PSI, the AUX ports open.

Now with the ACV removed, and just a presilencer, you still have the air injecton line hooked up. It doesnt do anything, but when 2 psi builds up in the exhaust, the 6 ports open up.

I dont know if you had a GSL-SE to start with, but the air injecton line MUST be from a GSL-SE. Just grab one out of a junkyard, or get one from a mazda dealer.

 

anyone have pics of what im looking at?

 

bump

 

Removing the sleevs will let more air flow through. It will give you 5-10hp extra in the top end, but it will take away some low end power. Keith Weiss(scca racer in ohio) has this done on his race car and has proved that it does add top end power.

 

For street use, leave them working. For race use pull them out. You don't need the low end anyways. The sleeves do take up some space of their own in relation to runner area but the few max hp gain on top is not worth the loss of low end and gas mileage if this is your daily driver.

I don't know where people come up with bs that says wiring them open gives better top end. Then what, having them open naturally and doing the same thing? By wiring them open you have gained nothing and only lost low end. That is the worst advice anyone could possibly give. The only way to get a gain is to get an airflow increase which is what completely removing the sleeves does. Wiring them open doesn't. While I used to be in favor of them, I am now convinced that Pineapple sleeves only make you faster because your wallet is lighter. I was stubborn to accept it but the intake port is too small and improperly shaped to flow well so any gain is minimal at best. A radius isn't going to help it anyways since most of the airflow is on the shortline radius (the inside corner). Leave your car alone in this area. Look at other mods such as a good exhaust or better yet, replace the ecu and tune it good.

 

ok, thanks

 

Don't forget, you are driving a rotary-powered RX-7..

Quite Frankly who gives a **** about low end..

Remove the actuators and sleeves, and throw them in the woods, along with your cat, air pump, air control valve, pils of solenoids, rear sway bar etc etc.

 

I give a ****! The faster off the line the sooner I hit 3500 rpm when my 5&6 ports are supposed to open (not WOT) at 6psi (not 2) while my Air Pump is pumping air all ranges of throttle above 1100 RPM. I dont think that dude in the Honda next to me wanting to run will let me spool up to 4000 rpm before we start racing, so my sleeves will stay in and Pinapple can keep a set with my name on them (dont hold your breath). I just make sure my **** is lubed, may do the air pump mod (keeping it too, need it to pass emmisions) to better control the operation instead of waiting on back pressure.

 

Come on guys this 5&6 port stuff has been beat to death. If your looking for horse power remove them as well as the air pump. I hate to break it to you but theres a big secret about rotarys they dont have squat for low end. Ive not seen a race car with them yet If your looking for a 100 Pt. concours ride keep them clean and use the stock set up.
Wheew! glad to get that out. Happy Motoring.

 

I agree, Steve you need to settle down..
moreover learn to launch your rotary..

I've never launched one under 3500 RPM, so theoretically your 5th and 6 ports would already be open.


Also, if you engine doesn't rev freely, and quickly then it is time to invest in a lightweight flywheel.. then if you still launch your way, the honda guy wouldn't have to wait long for the engine to "spool"

 

OK OK, guess my point was taken well, and yes I can launch my rotary and theoretically no the ports wont be open, needs a load to create enough pressure. I was exagerating others posts that were ill stated. Thanks for the concern though. All good Opinions are just that.

 

i think the rotary needs all the low end it can get...

 

Rotaries don't like to be lugged (driven under load at low RPM (anything <2500 RPM)

keep the revs higher! Drive a gear high, or switch the rear diff ratio if needed...