4bbl Carb help.. 1985 12A
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4bbl Carb help.. 1985 12A
Hey, I've still been having trouble starting. I checked all fuel lines and nothing is clogged. I poured about 1/4 cup fuel into the carb to see if it would start. Boy it wanted too, but unfortunately didn't. The fuel is blocked someplace in the carb.
Can any one give me some pointers as to what else I could check before completely removing the carb?
1985 Mazda RX-7 GSL 12A 1.1L (5-Speed) 100% Stock except whats posted in my sig...
Thanks
The first picture is the top of the carb, the second is where I checked to see if the carb was getting fuel.
Can any one give me some pointers as to what else I could check before completely removing the carb?
1985 Mazda RX-7 GSL 12A 1.1L (5-Speed) 100% Stock except whats posted in my sig...
Thanks
The first picture is the top of the carb, the second is where I checked to see if the carb was getting fuel.
#2
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Are the float bowls empty? Take a look and let us know. If they do have fuel in them, try tapping on the top of the carb with a plastic hammer or something of that nature. Sometimes the float needles will get stuck.
When is the last time that it ran right?
When is the last time that it ran right?
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I got the car in its current condition, I am assuming it has been a year or so since it started.
As for the float bowl, don't know what that is. if you have a picture of a carb showing the float bowl it would be great. I'm not much of a mechanic but I'm willint to try!
Or if you could copy my picture and open it in an image editor and circle it, then repost here it would be very helpful..
Sorry for being a bone head....
As for the float bowl, don't know what that is. if you have a picture of a carb showing the float bowl it would be great. I'm not much of a mechanic but I'm willint to try!
Or if you could copy my picture and open it in an image editor and circle it, then repost here it would be very helpful..
Sorry for being a bone head....
#4
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Here are some pictures.
http://intertron.com/ron/carb.html
The float bowls have a small square glass cover. One is visible in the center of the picture of the front of the carb. It is just above and to the right of the throttle position sensor. The rear one is barely visible behind the dashpot.
http://intertron.com/ron/carb.html
The float bowls have a small square glass cover. One is visible in the center of the picture of the front of the carb. It is just above and to the right of the throttle position sensor. The rear one is barely visible behind the dashpot.
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And the fuel had been drained and changed frequently, the previous owner drained it about 6 months ago to change the fuel pump. Then I drained it to put the factory pump back in, it was perfectly fine. (He said he was driving around and pulled in to fuel at a gas-station and the car started to die from there, probably water in the fuel, he got it home and it hasn't started since...)
I haven't purged the fuel from the lines yet, only the tank. I want to put all stainles lines in during the summer.
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Well I don't realy like banging on things with hammers to get them to work, but this time i did it and the whole carb came off.
Kidding, I noticed after I tapped it a few times that fuel is now coming out of only one jet, very slow, just a couple of drops at a time when the throttle is pressed. I have no idea as to how much is supposed to flow out and this could be normal, or not. I had the battery disconected since it's recharging as I type.
Thanks for the tip! I'll try turning it over a few times to see if the pressure will dislodge something else. If not I'll get a bigger hammer!
Kidding, I noticed after I tapped it a few times that fuel is now coming out of only one jet, very slow, just a couple of drops at a time when the throttle is pressed. I have no idea as to how much is supposed to flow out and this could be normal, or not. I had the battery disconected since it's recharging as I type.
Thanks for the tip! I'll try turning it over a few times to see if the pressure will dislodge something else. If not I'll get a bigger hammer!
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Well, I think the jets are cleaned out and unstuck now!
Thanks 74RX4 an Kentetsu. I heard for the first time My RX-7, I need to fluch the coolent and replace it, and oil too before I run it for any longer, You are GODS!
Awesome!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks 74RX4 an Kentetsu. I heard for the first time My RX-7, I need to fluch the coolent and replace it, and oil too before I run it for any longer, You are GODS!
Awesome!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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With the key on and nothing else, the float bowls should fill with fuel. They're basically just reservoirs that maintain a set level. As they fill, the floats start to ride up higher, and they're connected to a needle valve that cuts off the flow once they're full. When the floats are full you should be able to see the level in the sightglass.
The main fuel circuit sits just above the float bowl level, so that as the engine cranks and vacuum builds, it's quickly able to slowly sip some fuel out of the bowl. The key is to get the fuel to the appropriate level so that it doesn't flood (doesn't sit so high that the fuel will overflow into the carb primaries) but also isn't so low that the vacuum will have a hard time sipping the appropriate rate of fuel.
If your level is right and you're not trickling fuel into the carb with only the key turned, then you've made it to your starting point. Realize too that if the fuel pressure's too high (not likely, as you're still all stock) it could overpower the needle valve and never get cut off by the floats.
You should also see squirts of fuel when you quickly press the throttle, but that's being delivered by the accelerator pump and has nothing to do with your float setting or internal passages.
Keep in mind, too, that the float settings don't just move on their own. If you've got a little bit of fuel trickling in when the key's on but the engine's not turning, it's probably some trash that's keeping the needle valve from seating perfectly, as it's a metal-on-metal interface that's trying to stop the fuel flow. If it's jammed, the fuel will always slowly trickle into the bowls, even when the floats are riding high and trying to close the valve.
I'd recommend leaving the air cleaner off, switching on the car, and carefully watching to see what happens. Once you've got a better idea of what you're facing, let us know.
The main fuel circuit sits just above the float bowl level, so that as the engine cranks and vacuum builds, it's quickly able to slowly sip some fuel out of the bowl. The key is to get the fuel to the appropriate level so that it doesn't flood (doesn't sit so high that the fuel will overflow into the carb primaries) but also isn't so low that the vacuum will have a hard time sipping the appropriate rate of fuel.
If your level is right and you're not trickling fuel into the carb with only the key turned, then you've made it to your starting point. Realize too that if the fuel pressure's too high (not likely, as you're still all stock) it could overpower the needle valve and never get cut off by the floats.
You should also see squirts of fuel when you quickly press the throttle, but that's being delivered by the accelerator pump and has nothing to do with your float setting or internal passages.
Keep in mind, too, that the float settings don't just move on their own. If you've got a little bit of fuel trickling in when the key's on but the engine's not turning, it's probably some trash that's keeping the needle valve from seating perfectly, as it's a metal-on-metal interface that's trying to stop the fuel flow. If it's jammed, the fuel will always slowly trickle into the bowls, even when the floats are riding high and trying to close the valve.
I'd recommend leaving the air cleaner off, switching on the car, and carefully watching to see what happens. Once you've got a better idea of what you're facing, let us know.
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