1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

45 DCOE experience?

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Old Sep 6, 2019 | 08:43 AM
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45 DCOE experience?

Hey lads, I have a 12A 1983 GSL, and im looking into new carburetors. What's your experience with the Weber 45DCOE, or any other relatively simple alternatives that wont exactly break the bank would be nice.
-Louie
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Old Sep 6, 2019 | 10:20 AM
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Thats an ok solution but you might be better suited to look at the Weber downdraft carbs from RacingBeat. Why replace the Nikki? Its the best carb for the 12A and can be modified to really work as well or better than any aftermarket carb.
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Old Sep 6, 2019 | 02:53 PM
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Having two GS RX7 with difference carbs. Here is my 2 cents. I run a "fat" Nikki (modded stock carb) on one, runs really well and really performs great; advantage is that you do not have to change out intake manifold (you can mod this also, mine is stock). I always think the first step is to go "fat" Nikki route first and its cheaper, just need a slightly strong fuel pump; I use a cheap Carter with no issues. My other RX7 (recently purchased with Weber set-up) has the old Rotary Engineering twin Weber DCD36s system, this was an expensive upgrade back in the day and would be now if you could find one. It runs twin fuel pumps and no return. It runs really well and starts up easy but this car performs differently, it feels like less low end power but runs stronger mid/high end and butt dyno would give the zero to 60 to the "fat Nikki" car. Now the Webers from mid-high range are very strong and sound awesome. But going to Weber IDA or DCOE mean having to upgrade the fuel pump, new intake manifold. Much more expensive than "fat" Nikki option. Also make sure that Weber are jetted and rotary ready, justs making tuning easier.
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Old Sep 6, 2019 | 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by racerx01
Having two GS RX7 with difference carbs. Here is my 2 cents. I run a "fat" Nikki (modded stock carb) on one, runs really well and really performs great; advantage is that you do not have to change out intake manifold (you can mod this also, mine is stock). I always think the first step is to go "fat" Nikki route first and its cheaper, just need a slightly strong fuel pump; I use a cheap Carter with no issues. My other RX7 (recently purchased with Weber set-up) has the old Rotary Engineering twin Weber DCD36s system, this was an expensive upgrade back in the day and would be now if you could find one. It runs twin fuel pumps and no return. It runs really well and starts up easy but this car performs differently, it feels like less low end power but runs stronger mid/high end and butt dyno would give the zero to 60 to the "fat Nikki" car. Now the Webers from mid-high range are very strong and sound awesome. But going to Weber IDA or DCOE mean having to upgrade the fuel pump, new intake manifold. Much more expensive than "fat" Nikki option. Also make sure that Weber are jetted and rotary ready, justs making tuning easier.
Ok thank you very much. I think I will look into your “fat Nikki” option, I’m working on a bit of a budget, I’m 15 lol. How did you build it? Partlinks/ places I should look would be very helpful
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Old Sep 9, 2019 | 11:13 AM
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I had Jeff20B build me a "fat" Nikki, I did not strip or do rebuild on my Nikki. But I did do the emission delete, rat nest delete, replace all vac/fuel lines and reseal the intake system before installing the "fat" Nikki. The rebuilt Nikki I got was stripped down also; so no automatic choke and emission system in place. With choke the car still start very well; normally pump gas twice then turn key and once running just feather gas pedal until warmed up a little. So like a lot (I am not good at working on cars)but really pretty easy. Plus once the carb is stripped down it much easier to reach the four carb mounting nuts.

As far as info; you can go to FAQ 1st Gen section. I have a PDF of rat nest removal procedure (just send me a PM with your email address) I can forward to you. Also you can find a lot on stripping a Nikki and building a "fat" Nikki on this site by searching.

Outside of that the only thing is to add a little bigger fuel pump, not a fancy one; Nikki only needs 2.5/3.0 psi.
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Old Sep 12, 2019 | 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by racerx01
I had Jeff20B build me a "fat" Nikki, I did not strip or do rebuild on my Nikki. But I did do the emission delete, rat nest delete, replace all vac/fuel lines and reseal the intake system before installing the "fat" Nikki. The rebuilt Nikki I got was stripped down also; so no automatic choke and emission system in place. With choke the car still start very well; normally pump gas twice then turn key and once running just feather gas pedal until warmed up a little. So like a lot (I am not good at working on cars)but really pretty easy. Plus once the carb is stripped down it much easier to reach the four carb mounting nuts.

As far as info; you can go to FAQ 1st Gen section. I have a PDF of rat nest removal procedure (just send me a PM with your email address) I can forward to you. Also you can find a lot on stripping a Nikki and building a "fat" Nikki on this site by searching.

Outside of that, the only thing is to add a little bigger fuel pump, not a fancy one; Nikki only needs 2.5/3.0 psi.
Ok, thank you very much. I'm lucky enough to not have a rats nest, but I am a little worried about passing emissions. I live in Indiana, but how hard was it to pass yours? Also, if you want to pm me the cost of the fat Nikki that would be appreciated, im working on a bit of a budget.
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Old Sep 12, 2019 | 11:36 AM
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I live in southern Indiana, they do not do anything with emissions. Both of my RX7 have headers and no emissions. As far as cost of fat Nikki, probably best to reach out to the people on here that rebuild them. Price should not be more than (new or used) Holley or Weber. Your cost is reduced further due to the fact that you would not have to buy a different intake manifold, and upgrade your fuel system as much (just run the Carter LP fuel pump and regulator).
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