impulsive-rx7

iTrader: (2)

I have a '82 GS with a beat up Mariah Mode 1 widebody with the following mods: 600cfm Edelbrock performer series carb (not tuned yet)
Racing Beat intake manifold
Monza? header
no emissions, no AC.

The 12A is stock with 98,040 miles.
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-general-discussion-207/my-new-project-car-82-mariah-mode-one-710620/

It needs suspension and some body work/paintjob.

I have $3000 to spend. It will never be a show car, so performance has the priority. On the other hand, I don't race save for the occasional autocross, however I do tend to break parts on Deal's Gap if you know what I mean. Eventually I would like to have 220 horsepower naturally aspirated. I realize I won't get that this go around, but would like to have a solid starting point.

Discuss.

djessence

220 HP is gonna be pretty hard to get out of a 12A as an NA engine. Unless maybe you basically j-port it and sacrifice drivability

anyhow. I dont know what you mean with the deals gap thing but suspension, the RB setup with illuminas is a good set up and will run 500 ish depending on where you buy the shocks.

Do you just have a header? cuz if you get full performance exhaust and muffler it will increase HP a bit.

Lightweight flywheel with racier clutch... all increase in performance.

are you trying to keep it stock looking. roll cage will stiffen chassis a bit.

pinoyremix

^ im with him on that...go with the full rb exhaust, suspension rb set up with blues or illuminas...could also go with a blow threw turbo, another carb..or you could try and buy a 13b turbo and try to swap that in..for more power..

DwArF

I wish that was stock

djessence

wish a roll cage was stock or a stiff chassis?

impulsive-rx7

iTrader: (2)

I don't really plan to keep the 12a for that power level, but I'll do with what I have for now.

There is a catalytic converter that is probably clogged and 2.5 in pipe to a ricer muffler. I plan on using a couple magnaflows instead.

I may do a 4-point roll bar eventually.

The real question here is tokicos and RB springs or respeed coilovers...

PercentSevenC

220 from an NA 12A requires a (half-)bridge or peripheral port. Both of these will make the car relatively unstreetable. You need a good free-flowing exhaust system set up to take advantage of the porting.

For stock or streetports, 2.5" exhaust is overkill for a 12A.

I'd go with the coilovers if you don't mind a little extra harshness.

impulsive-rx7

iTrader: (2)

For those of you who don't know me, I've been into RX-7's for a little while now. So lets skip the basics, I know I'll need a bridgeport and a free flowing exhaust. besides, I would like a bridgeport, I have two other vehicles for daily driving anyway.

Let's look at the whole car for this discussion please.

pinoyremix

rb springs are good for the price..but if you wanna spend the extra money..and have a lil more control of the height...go with coilovers..

DwArF

that what his car looks like was stock

djessence

oh gotcha,

if you have the cash (which u do) def go with the coil overs from respeed. might consider the rack and pinion steering conversion and maybe big brake kit to.

Thisll give a sweet platform for if you do a high horspower engine. Sorry to cover the basics off the bat but it often needs to be said lol.

Will the magnaflo's last with the heat from a rotary (honest quetion)

justint5387

iTrader: (1)

For suspensionL
Get the Respeed or ground control coilover and camber plates, 300lbs springs for the front and 150lbs springs in the rear, Tokico illumina shocks, turn-in spacers, new tie rods, new bushings, upgrade to FC 4-piston brakes, GSL-SE rear end with GSL diff.

For engine:
Aluminum flywheel, clutch, Weber 48IDA, fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, RB streetport exhaust.

djessence

but if hes planning on swapping engines i wouldnt worry too much about the 12A specific engine components... work more on the platform.

but i agree with above posts about suspension, brakes and rear end/diff

orion84gsl

iTrader: (5)

You want your car to handle, than your first $1000 should go to RE-Speed for the Rack and Pinion kit. Next up, the suspension, (springs, dampers [or coilovers, your choice] bushings all around, and at the very least a decent set of tires. Do NOT skimp on tires. It's your cars only connection with the ground, so it's gotta be up to par. I find it strange that I'm the first to mention that. A good set of brakes to pull that thing down from speed. Remember, it's already capable of going fairly quick in stock form, so next to tires, your brakes are most important.

Then if you have some dough left, get the exhaust taken care of, as that's the biggest power restriction your facing, and it will allow you to use that edelbrock to it's fullest potential. Of course you could always sell it and get a Sterling carb. You'll get better response from a carb more properly sized for the engine. The 12A can only flow about 60% of what your current carb can flow, so you could do better with a proper carb. Also with any carb the proper pump and regulator are neccesary.

And just a side note, your not allowed to race on deals gap, so you might as well throw the BP idea out the window, it won't do you any favours on that type of road when theres cops around. Get a healthy streetport and enjoy some civility in your RX-7. From the pics it looks like someone had their way with the body. I would say to protect the metal on the cheap, just grab a bunch of cans of flat black Krylon(or whatever) and do the old spray bomb. It'll give you a stealthy understated look that will go well with your body kit. Just take your time with it and it will turn out better than the idea sounds. Good luck man.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

If you want to stay NA and have 220 hp, with some driving manners, go with at least Judge Ito's streetport, or a 1/2 large streetport with 1/2 bridgeport secondaries and RE's old dual DCD carb set up Skip the 12A and go directly to a 13B.

impulsive-rx7

iTrader: (2)

Alrighty... I just ordered the Respeed coilover kits with springs and Tokico illuminas. Also going to order new tie rods and spark plug wires today.
That's $1200 down.

I'm planning on a lightweight flywheel $400. Probably some performance clutch too $200-300. A couple Magnaflow mufflers $150. Calibration kit to tune my carb $50.

What do you think about the Respeed tubular sway bar?

I'm gonna hold off on the rack and pinion conversion for now.

How much does a GSL rearend go for??

mikewoodkozar

If it were me and i had $3K burning a hole in my pocket it would be bodywork, rust repair and paint, just my 2 cents

impulsive-rx7

iTrader: (2)

You make a good point Mike. But first I have to address the suspension and other issues just to make this car road worthy. Once I get the suspension installed and the car off of jackstands, I'll be able to drive it to the glass shop for a new windshield and to the body shop for an estimate.

mikewoodkozar

yeah, a windshield would be good

Tanjo

GSL rear end would be the first thing on my list. Suspension would be next, including full urethane bushings. You might be suprised at how much new bushings will improve the feel of the car. Then Id either get a nice set of wheels and tires, or, if what you have is somewhat decent, I would bank the rest and save up for a TII swap.

impulsive-rx7

iTrader: (2)

Weeeee

Kerebrus

iTrader: (30)

that looks sexy

1983GSP

http://www.jdmtigerjapanese.com/prod...roducts_id=139

if i had 3000 dollars this would be it!!!

1983GSP

http://www.jdmtigerjapanese.com/prod...roducts_id=143 or this!

aussiesmg

iTrader: (1)

Nice start....

220 out of a 12a is not that difficult, Chuck (SS124a) gets that out of a street port. A flywheel is good but not important right now, won't give any more power just responsiveness.

1. GSL rear end or GSL-SE all around (better brakes and lug pattern)
2. Exhaust
3. 2GDFIS
4. Carb ie: weber 48 IDA

Then worry about a built engine and accessories IMHO