has somebody has done a nd gen or 3rd gen rear suspention swap on a 1st gen. and how hard it is

 

Probably not. And very hard.

 

but i seen 1st gen with tII wheels and 3rd gen wheels. how they do that.

 

Late first gen GSL-SE's used the same 5bolt pattern that the fc & fd use

 

Wrong... The GSL-SE still has a 4bolt pattern. (4x4.5") A different pattern from the rest of the 1st gens, but still 4 bolt. It is the same pattern that was used on Mustangs of the era, so its not hard to find wheels for it. That same pattern was used on the 2nd gen base models for the first couple of years, but then they all went to the 5 bolt.

For a 1st gen to use 5 bolts wheels (3rd gen or TII) would require quite a bit of work, and $$$ as well...

 

First explain WHY you want a 2nd or 3rd gen suspension, and then we can go from there. there is a bit of info on this subject.

 

well, theres a lot of suspention parts for 2 and 3 gen and i would like to see a 1st gen with 3rd gen wheels.

 

Sure, but 1st gens have a bigger aftermarket (how many people actually race FCs or FDs? Versus... how many different classes or specs are there for the 1st-gen?) plus the suspensions are superior. Sure it's unsophisticated but solid axles have many advantages over independent rear...

 

How the hell is recirculating ball and a solid rear superior to A arms, rack and pinion, and IRS???

 

i didn't understand your question, felix

 

Well, as for recirculating ball, I'd almost rather have one in the first-gen over a R&P. Mazda didn't put any swivels or rubber bushings between the box and the steering wheel, the steering wheel pretty much bolts on to the input shaft (worm shaft? forgot tech. term). You couldn't do that with a rack, you'd have to have multiple U-joints and that adds up to flex. I have zero slop in my '80's steering box even after 142kmi (just rolled over tonight). A beefy Pitman arm will have less flex than some U-joints or even a (gasp) rag joint. Steering feel is EXCELLENT, and this is coming from someone who drools over Subarus (with incredible steering feel) and Saturns. Saturns? Yep, those are the only cars to my recollection that bolt the rack directly to the subframe without bushings. And the subframe bolts to the body without bushings, too. (That's why Saturns don't work well with low-profile tires... too much of a good thing)

I'd prefer a solid rear, properly located, over an IRS, because an IRS will never have the amount of anti-squat that a solid can have. Anti-squat is GOOD when you're trying to accelerate out of a corner, or launch at the strip. Note that I said properly located... my next 1st-gen is going to have a Panhard rod and a torque arm (aka a "tri-link") instead of the messy and bind-prone stock 4-link and Watts. Nothing against 4-links, properly done they work great. Watts linkages tend to put the roll center a bit high, because the roll center is defined as the center pivot of the link arm. Difficult to get that very low unless you put it sideways under the differential (similar to how the new Crown Vics put the Watts arm sideways on top) but then the linkage gets even messier. Plus a Panhard is simple. Simple = Good.

 

yeah but is to much to do, i not gona do it. i'll stay with the live axle. anyway thanks for all your opinions

 

hey man aint there toooooo much snow at ft drum to be drivin a rex now anyway? just teasin u man

 

well is not snowing right now but my rex is happy were it is. anyway i beying fixing it for next year. thanks