2nd gen subframe swap Q'S
#1
lightened fb
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2nd gen subframe swap Q'S
ok well i got an 86 front subframe from the wrecker and have already begun to install it, but i had some quick questions for all you who have done it, I got a rack with power steering, and i dont have a pump on my car, i did this on purpose, because i wanted the ratio of the ps rack, now i was just wondering how do i disable the p/s aspect of the rack without causeing air to get backpressure in the lines, and have the least friction on the unit as a whole, ??
2nd q's i read in the swap link that people wanted the rack to be an inch further back, is this true?? i already drilled one hole an inch further back, and have the piece test fitted, looks about centered?
3rd q'n about the one pot brakes, can i get largercalipers in the future from lets say a turbo2 and will they bolt right on or will i need to get bigger disks aswell and drill them out for the 4 bolt pattern??
thanks paul
2nd q's i read in the swap link that people wanted the rack to be an inch further back, is this true?? i already drilled one hole an inch further back, and have the piece test fitted, looks about centered?
3rd q'n about the one pot brakes, can i get largercalipers in the future from lets say a turbo2 and will they bolt right on or will i need to get bigger disks aswell and drill them out for the 4 bolt pattern??
thanks paul
#3
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A few people have done the swap and posted results. Try searching out those threads in this section and contacting those guys directly Might be quicker than hoping they see this thread.
#4
FB+FC=F-ME
TII or GXL 4 pot brake upgrade is an easy bolt on.
For the power steering,just connect the left and right tubes together to seal them up and so they trade fluid/air with each other when you turn the wheel.
For the power steering,just connect the left and right tubes together to seal them up and so they trade fluid/air with each other when you turn the wheel.
#5
Rotary Enthusiast
1. You need to have fluid in the lines if u want to stay with power or it will destroy it, just connect the inlet and outlet together and fill it up with power steering fluid, make sure u change the fluid once a year or so.
2. Well i installed mine in front. I believe grandmac installed his an inch further back since he didn't want as much caster. Make sure u check it pretty precise. just looking centre won't do it. If it's even off a little bit, it will go down the road at an angle and u will never be able to get a proper alignmen on it.
3. You can always put the 4piston calipers. The brackets might be different though, so you are better of to just install the 4piston to start with.
2. Well i installed mine in front. I believe grandmac installed his an inch further back since he didn't want as much caster. Make sure u check it pretty precise. just looking centre won't do it. If it's even off a little bit, it will go down the road at an angle and u will never be able to get a proper alignmen on it.
3. You can always put the 4piston calipers. The brackets might be different though, so you are better of to just install the 4piston to start with.
#6
lightened fb
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thanks for all the help guys, i knew someone out there could help, yaa i tried searching, nobody really says whether they put the subframe further back or not, i guess thats what ill do, thanks again guys.
#7
Senior Member
My subframe is mounted using the stock front holes. The caster is extreme but I am liking the handling enough to not even think of changing it. Mine went in a little different in that it required a spacer for rear mounts of the subframe, because it was about 1" lower than the frame rails. This mod has definately removed a lot of the tendency of a 1st gen the understeer into a corner, I can also catch oversteer much faster. I can't speak for the brake except to say that with new pads and rotors they should be decent, I'm doing that this weekend.
Grant
Grant
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#10
Rotary Enthusiast
thanks Grant to chiming in.
For all of you who are thinking about doing this, as grantmac found out it's not an easy thing to do. It requires fabrication and quite a few weekends. On top of that the swap how-to is just a guide, not a step by step exact information.
Cheers,
Omid
For all of you who are thinking about doing this, as grantmac found out it's not an easy thing to do. It requires fabrication and quite a few weekends. On top of that the swap how-to is just a guide, not a step by step exact information.
Cheers,
Omid
#11
Senior Member
Always glad to link to your write-up, it saves a lot of typing. I really should get around to writing you a short section on how the car performs on the road and the little difficulties I've had, maybe after the AutoX season; although then I'll be busy with the NEXT project hopefully.
Grant
Grant
#12
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Originally Posted by grantmac
Read all of my posts on it first, you'll probably change your mind.
Grant
Grant
from what i understand is that the steering column needs custom points welded up to hold it in, and the FB shaft slides into the FC shaft which retains the steering column in the inside (wipers and such) , do i have it backwards or all wrong? either way i got a steering quickner into a 323 GTX rally car (what a bitch) i think i may be able to figure it out, and it also sounds like the actual mounting of the subframe is pretty straight forward with some minor fabing
was also thinking about taking the caster back a bit about 1"
im also going to try to do it in less then 2 weeks
you all say NAY! i will at least give it a shot.
12 hours a day i can do
ahh screw it ill do it after i drive the car 2,000 miles and have another car to drive
but ill half to pay for shop use
Anyone got a shop in AZ?
Last edited by shadylurker; 06-08-05 at 10:56 PM.
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