inuissus_cendi

ok I'm in the process of doing the standard 2GCDFIS withOUT the transistor trick and I had a thought. Since I dont need the 2nd Gen ignitor, and I'm still running A/C on my car and dont have alot of space to mount it, could I mount the coil without the big metal ignitor housing? Without the ignitor all that is really in there is the balast resistor...

If anyone else knows more about this I'd appreciate it. It just seems pointless to add a big chunk of metal under my hood if I dont need to.

inuissus_cendi

ok well i was impatient and just mounted it up normally, but now I've got a problem. The stock first gen spark plug wires dont fit on the 2nd Gen coil. I remember reading somewhere that it COULD be done, and so now i ask "how?!"

please help

woodonastick

iTrader: (1)

extend the cable to reach the bottom of the coil. basiclly move the rubber 'cup' if u will. thats wat i did. i zipped tied the coil to the driver side strut tower.

inuissus_cendi

AHHHHHHHHH! ok well out of frustration i just cut the cups off and pluged the straight in, so i know that theres a connection. AND... it still doesnt work. excuse my language but ****! ahhh, that feels better. ok so basically I thought I did everything right, but evidently I'm more incompotent than I thought. it starts up fine, idles ok, but past idle (particularly at 2000 rpm) it sputters and coughs and shakes and PISSES ME OFF!

so I'm guessing theres a bad connection somewhere and the leading coil just isn't firing at all. anyone please help, or at least help me vent my anger.

therotaryrocket

yea mine didn't work either. i did it according to the write-up in the archives. i was kinda confused about the exact instructions though. im pretty sure i removed the ignitor correctly and connected the bottom of the ballast resistor with the wires that were previously connected together on the ignitor which leaves it as the black wire sticking out the top of the coil and connected that to the negative of the stock coil's negative wire. the positive connects to the post where it says - and is connected to the top of the ballast resistor. idk wtf i did wrong. it ran off of trailing only. i don't get it. what tells the coil when to fire? the positive and negative that connects to the factory coil?.

K-Tune

iTrader: (26)

your factory negative goes to a wire which goes to the ballast resistor, then to the negative side of the FC coil

your positive wire goes to the fc coil as it should.

inuissus_cendi

yup, did that... while we're at this whats the reason behind moving the trailing wires to the leading spots on the distributor?

K-Tune

iTrader: (26)

dual leading...

i guess it makes them fire at the same time

therotaryrocket

i finally got it right, well kinda, i don't have the ballast resistor hooked up but am doing so tomorow morning. i hooked negative straight to negative and positive straight to positive. you say the ballast resistor goes inline with the negatives. can't it cause some type of damage if it doesn't have the resistor hooked up? and can't it wear down the spark plugs faster? i think i'll get some 2nd gen leading plugs. but definantly more power for me, and when accelerating softly i don't have to press the gas pedal as hard for the rate of accelaration. stronger idle about 80 rpms higher and more responsive throttle. thanks, zach

smnc

Look in the dizzy cap.

Using the trailing locations, the spark has to jump from the cap to the rotor, and then back to the cap

The leading goes straight from the rotor to the cap.

Less jumps mean stronger spark at the plug...

Unsupa

iTrader: (2)

my car wouldn't crank with the resister in line so i also wired it up without the resister.. 10k miles later I'm doing just fine.

Kentetsu

Yeah, I've hear of quite a few people running without the resistor without issues. Glad to hear you got it running.