220 miles per tank?
#27
Old [Sch|F]ool
I shift at 2k-2500, start off in 2nd gear most of the time... Of course my intake setup and ignition timing have been tweaked so there's no reason to go way up to 3500. Driving a completely stock car is such a shock, they're so *gutless*
City fuel economy will always suck. The engines seem like they use just as much fuel idling as they do cruising at 65mph, so fuel economy is directly related to how fast you're going, instead of inversely related as you might think. The only engine I ever had that I drove enough in city to get a mostly-city tank was my old streetport and it'd do 9mpg, but still 25+ on highway.
City fuel economy will always suck. The engines seem like they use just as much fuel idling as they do cruising at 65mph, so fuel economy is directly related to how fast you're going, instead of inversely related as you might think. The only engine I ever had that I drove enough in city to get a mostly-city tank was my old streetport and it'd do 9mpg, but still 25+ on highway.
#28
Old Fart Young at Heart
iTrader: (6)
The 1/2bp on the widebody can get as low a 8.5 in the city and as high as 24 mpg at 75mph. Due to the large amount of overlap, I'm in 2nd gear in the 30 mph zones, 3rd in the 40mph ones.
In that same 40 mph zone, I can comfortably drive in 5th, and 4th in the 30 zone in my 2nd gen and get 25 mpg at 80 on the highway.
In that same 40 mph zone, I can comfortably drive in 5th, and 4th in the 30 zone in my 2nd gen and get 25 mpg at 80 on the highway.
#29
Old [Sch|F]ool
Originally Posted by trochoid
The 1/2bp on the widebody can get as low a 8.5 in the city and as high as 24 mpg at 75mph. Due to the large amount of overlap, I'm in 2nd gear in the 30 mph zones, 3rd in the 40mph ones.
It ruled I have no idea what fuel economy was because most of the time was spent *not* driving it, just kinda blitzing around the block or sitting idling in the parking lot...
Maybe I'll try a half bridge. I *do* need to take my stockport apart for new coolant seals, maybe I'll bridge some end housings and pop 'em in for a little while.
If I put the engine back together (big If) I might use an FC trans and 3.91 gears to I can load the sucker down enough to run smooth, assuming that EFI doesn't help it enough.
#31
Old [Sch|F]ool
Nice.
My boss had mine up to 7k in the parking lot peering down the carb, and it was still stuttering Still was on the idle circuit too!
Yeah, maybe half bridge would be better for the street Now I *gotta* try it! It's not for lack of side housings. I'll go off to search your posts now to find out your intake setup...
My boss had mine up to 7k in the parking lot peering down the carb, and it was still stuttering Still was on the idle circuit too!
Yeah, maybe half bridge would be better for the street Now I *gotta* try it! It's not for lack of side housings. I'll go off to search your posts now to find out your intake setup...
#33
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I have read that the oxygen sensor makes a huge difference in gas mileage. I just changed mine today and will wait and see what happens. Historically though I have gotten shitty gas mileage.
#34
wankel wankel
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What the heck?!?
Fuel filter helping mileage?
Fuel filter helping mileage?
Originally Posted by willie j spec
You'd be amazed at how a $3 gas filter will help. It wont give you an extra hundred miles, but you will notice the change.
#36
My wife bought me 2 RX-7s
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I typically get 15-17 MPG pure city mileage. That's with mech secondaries. On the highway I recently got 25-26 MPG crusing at 75 MPH. Before I had mech secondaries that was closer to 29 MPG.
#37
Old Fart Young at Heart
iTrader: (6)
Originally Posted by jezek301
I have read that the oxygen sensor makes a huge difference in gas mileage. I just changed mine today and will wait and see what happens. Historically though I have gotten shitty gas mileage.
#41
Nigga stole my bike!
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I'm averaging about 12mpg combined on a tank.
I'm going to play around with my jetting a little some time in the near future to try and help that.
I'm going to play around with my jetting a little some time in the near future to try and help that.
#42
Censored
iTrader: (14)
OK, here's my chance to gloat.
A couple of weeks ago I shattered my miles per tank record of 359 by putting 391 miles on a tank of gas in my 84 GSL. That's about 26 mpg for you math kids, and a nice feeling for anyone trying to get miles out of a 7, which I am. (23-24 is not bad, but how high can it go?) How'd I do it?
Well mostly I try to excede the speedlimit by only 10 mph, which means keep it between 80 and 85 here in GA. Then I tune that all stock baby up like the Mazda engineers imagined, sans cat. Then I drive the car 110 miles a day and watch the price of gas go up. Friggin Republicans.
Happy Motoring!
Ray
A couple of weeks ago I shattered my miles per tank record of 359 by putting 391 miles on a tank of gas in my 84 GSL. That's about 26 mpg for you math kids, and a nice feeling for anyone trying to get miles out of a 7, which I am. (23-24 is not bad, but how high can it go?) How'd I do it?
Well mostly I try to excede the speedlimit by only 10 mph, which means keep it between 80 and 85 here in GA. Then I tune that all stock baby up like the Mazda engineers imagined, sans cat. Then I drive the car 110 miles a day and watch the price of gas go up. Friggin Republicans.
Happy Motoring!
Ray
#43
Lives on the Forum
iTrader: (13)
Originally Posted by 84RX7'nSTi
Stock '1984 GS 12A 5-spd. 14.6 gallon tank.
I see 290-300 all highway, driving at 80mph.
I see 220-240 all city, stop light to stop light, aggravation to frustration.
I normally see 260-280 mixed suburban driving.
Mike
I see 290-300 all highway, driving at 80mph.
I see 220-240 all city, stop light to stop light, aggravation to frustration.
I normally see 260-280 mixed suburban driving.
Mike
Sa's are 14.5 US gals. 81-85 no matter what the model is 16.6 US gals.`
#44
Lives on the Forum
iTrader: (13)
Originally Posted by peejay
I shift at 2k-2500, start off in 2nd gear most of the time... Of course my intake setup and ignition timing have been tweaked so there's no reason to go way up to 3500. Driving a completely stock car is such a shock, they're so *gutless*
City fuel economy will always suck. The engines seem like they use just as much fuel idling as they do cruising at 65mph, so fuel economy is directly related to how fast you're going, instead of inversely related as you might think. The only engine I ever had that I drove enough in city to get a mostly-city tank was my old streetport and it'd do 9mpg, but still 25+ on highway.
City fuel economy will always suck. The engines seem like they use just as much fuel idling as they do cruising at 65mph, so fuel economy is directly related to how fast you're going, instead of inversely related as you might think. The only engine I ever had that I drove enough in city to get a mostly-city tank was my old streetport and it'd do 9mpg, but still 25+ on highway.
Remember less is not always better
#45
Lives on the Forum
iTrader: (13)
Originally Posted by jezek301
I have read that the oxygen sensor makes a huge difference in gas mileage. I just changed mine today and will wait and see what happens. Historically though I have gotten shitty gas mileage.
#46
Lives on the Forum
iTrader: (13)
Originally Posted by ray green
OK, here's my chance to gloat.
A couple of weeks ago I shattered my miles per tank record of 359 by putting 391 miles on a tank of gas in my 84 GSL. That's about 26 mpg for you math kids, and a nice feeling for anyone trying to get miles out of a 7, which I am. (23-24 is not bad, but how high can it go?) How'd I do it?
Well mostly I try to excede the speedlimit by only 10 mph, which means keep it between 80 and 85 here in GA. Then I tune that all stock baby up like the Mazda engineers imagined, sans cat. Then I drive the car 110 miles a day and watch the price of gas go up. Friggin Republicans.
Happy Motoring!
Ray
A couple of weeks ago I shattered my miles per tank record of 359 by putting 391 miles on a tank of gas in my 84 GSL. That's about 26 mpg for you math kids, and a nice feeling for anyone trying to get miles out of a 7, which I am. (23-24 is not bad, but how high can it go?) How'd I do it?
Well mostly I try to excede the speedlimit by only 10 mph, which means keep it between 80 and 85 here in GA. Then I tune that all stock baby up like the Mazda engineers imagined, sans cat. Then I drive the car 110 miles a day and watch the price of gas go up. Friggin Republicans.
Happy Motoring!
Ray
#47
Lives on the Forum
iTrader: (13)
Originally Posted by clean85owner
I'm averaging about 12mpg combined on a tank.
I'm going to play around with my jetting a little some time in the near future to try and help that.
I'm going to play around with my jetting a little some time in the near future to try and help that.
The worse he has gotten in town was 17mpg and averages 22mpg. You guys need to do some serious tuning
#48
Lives on the Forum
iTrader: (13)
Originally Posted by trochoid
Mikuni 44 PHH. It's supposed to be too smal for a 1/2 bridge, still haven't done much playing with the carb or taken it to the track for testing, but the wideband shows it's fat enough.
#50
Lives on the Forum
iTrader: (13)
Now that i've straightended most of you rookies up
I can focus back on the thread. Seems our originator of the thread has gone into a Coma because i do not see any of the questions our fellow rotorheads answered that were directed at him.
Remember when it comes to fuel economy there are many factors involved. Some are basic.
Tire pressures. Tire alignment. Driving habits such as rabbit starts instead of smooth shifting
thru the rpm ranges till about 3-4k so the motor is not bogging down.
Regular maintenance services. That means changing your plugs and using good quality ones such as NGK. Cap and rotor changes no more than 30k between. High quality ignition wires such as NGK or better.
Air filter changes. For you guys with Kn filters they actually work better when they are alittle dirty.
You guys with A/C, it's better to run the A/c when it is hot out. That is because the windows are up and you do not have all that air pushing thru the interior of the car. Remember cars are tested for aerodynamcis with windows up, not down.
Fuel filter changes for you carb'd guys to keep the motor from struggling when it is starving for fuel.
Fi guys, run a good fuel injection cleaner thru every 30k. The best on the market is Bg's 44k which is sold at dealerships or better repair facilities. If you can't get that then look for
redlines products.
Put good quality fuel in, not meaning high octane unless your are turbo'd but good brand.
Regular oil changes. If you want a energy conserving oil then use 10w30.
Also for you carb's guys use a good cleaner for the fuel. Bg also makes a cleaner called MI3000.
The only fuel i know of that causes or has caused a major factor in the loss of MPG is in Ca. It has been changed i believe.
An example is once i took a trip in my 93 eclipse DOHC A/T with overdrive to Oregon. On that trip in Ca i averaged 32 mpg. When i hit oregon and filled up i tracked the mileage and averaged 37mpg with no change in driving habits.
If you are running webers with streetports then you are just SOL. Mikuni 44phh's on non-street ported 12A's, i got 22-25 MPG on the highway, averaged 17-19 in town.
13b motors that are carb'd suffer in the MPG game even with light driving.
My 85 Se with a racing beat header, presilencer and fabricated CAI, and also changed the gearing to the GSl 3.90 gears. On the run to rotaryfest in speeds of average of 90mph got 22mpg. Also just had the injectors cleaned and tested.
Well, looks like i'm done posting in this section. Happy motoring and remember tune,tune,tune
I can focus back on the thread. Seems our originator of the thread has gone into a Coma because i do not see any of the questions our fellow rotorheads answered that were directed at him.
Remember when it comes to fuel economy there are many factors involved. Some are basic.
Tire pressures. Tire alignment. Driving habits such as rabbit starts instead of smooth shifting
thru the rpm ranges till about 3-4k so the motor is not bogging down.
Regular maintenance services. That means changing your plugs and using good quality ones such as NGK. Cap and rotor changes no more than 30k between. High quality ignition wires such as NGK or better.
Air filter changes. For you guys with Kn filters they actually work better when they are alittle dirty.
You guys with A/C, it's better to run the A/c when it is hot out. That is because the windows are up and you do not have all that air pushing thru the interior of the car. Remember cars are tested for aerodynamcis with windows up, not down.
Fuel filter changes for you carb'd guys to keep the motor from struggling when it is starving for fuel.
Fi guys, run a good fuel injection cleaner thru every 30k. The best on the market is Bg's 44k which is sold at dealerships or better repair facilities. If you can't get that then look for
redlines products.
Put good quality fuel in, not meaning high octane unless your are turbo'd but good brand.
Regular oil changes. If you want a energy conserving oil then use 10w30.
Also for you carb's guys use a good cleaner for the fuel. Bg also makes a cleaner called MI3000.
The only fuel i know of that causes or has caused a major factor in the loss of MPG is in Ca. It has been changed i believe.
An example is once i took a trip in my 93 eclipse DOHC A/T with overdrive to Oregon. On that trip in Ca i averaged 32 mpg. When i hit oregon and filled up i tracked the mileage and averaged 37mpg with no change in driving habits.
If you are running webers with streetports then you are just SOL. Mikuni 44phh's on non-street ported 12A's, i got 22-25 MPG on the highway, averaged 17-19 in town.
13b motors that are carb'd suffer in the MPG game even with light driving.
My 85 Se with a racing beat header, presilencer and fabricated CAI, and also changed the gearing to the GSl 3.90 gears. On the run to rotaryfest in speeds of average of 90mph got 22mpg. Also just had the injectors cleaned and tested.
Well, looks like i'm done posting in this section. Happy motoring and remember tune,tune,tune