1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

220 miles per tank?

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Old 05-13-06, 04:44 PM
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Mostly country driving, good tune, 2GCDFIS, 10,000 miles averages 25 mpg, or 300+ to a tank, and I drive her everday......**** eating grin....
Old 05-13-06, 05:25 PM
  #27  
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I shift at 2k-2500, start off in 2nd gear most of the time... Of course my intake setup and ignition timing have been tweaked so there's no reason to go way up to 3500. Driving a completely stock car is such a shock, they're so *gutless*

City fuel economy will always suck. The engines seem like they use just as much fuel idling as they do cruising at 65mph, so fuel economy is directly related to how fast you're going, instead of inversely related as you might think. The only engine I ever had that I drove enough in city to get a mostly-city tank was my old streetport and it'd do 9mpg, but still 25+ on highway.
Old 05-13-06, 05:36 PM
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The 1/2bp on the widebody can get as low a 8.5 in the city and as high as 24 mpg at 75mph. Due to the large amount of overlap, I'm in 2nd gear in the 30 mph zones, 3rd in the 40mph ones.

In that same 40 mph zone, I can comfortably drive in 5th, and 4th in the 30 zone in my 2nd gen and get 25 mpg at 80 on the highway.
Old 05-13-06, 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by trochoid
The 1/2bp on the widebody can get as low a 8.5 in the city and as high as 24 mpg at 75mph. Due to the large amount of overlap, I'm in 2nd gear in the 30 mph zones, 3rd in the 40mph ones.
Neat. I couldn't get the PP to run smoothly at all at 40mph or even 50mph. At 30mph I could load it down enough in 5th gear to cruise smoothly, at at 60mph it was *just* loaded enough to cruise smoothly in 5th, but any lower gear at any speed and it wasn't loaded enough and buckbuckbuckbuck.

It ruled I have no idea what fuel economy was because most of the time was spent *not* driving it, just kinda blitzing around the block or sitting idling in the parking lot...

Maybe I'll try a half bridge. I *do* need to take my stockport apart for new coolant seals, maybe I'll bridge some end housings and pop 'em in for a little while.


If I put the engine back together (big If) I might use an FC trans and 3.91 gears to I can load the sucker down enough to run smooth, assuming that EFI doesn't help it enough.
Old 05-13-06, 05:56 PM
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Under 3k rpm, it's a herky jerky pita to drive. At 4k, I can watch the vacuum gauge smooth out and the power starts. Stomping the accelerator at 5k is fun.
Old 05-13-06, 06:15 PM
  #31  
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Nice.

My boss had mine up to 7k in the parking lot peering down the carb, and it was still stuttering Still was on the idle circuit too!

Yeah, maybe half bridge would be better for the street Now I *gotta* try it! It's not for lack of side housings. I'll go off to search your posts now to find out your intake setup...
Old 05-13-06, 07:10 PM
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Mikuni 44 PHH. It's supposed to be too smal for a 1/2 bridge, still haven't done much playing with the carb or taken it to the track for testing, but the wideband shows it's fat enough.
Old 05-13-06, 08:29 PM
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I have read that the oxygen sensor makes a huge difference in gas mileage. I just changed mine today and will wait and see what happens. Historically though I have gotten shitty gas mileage.
Old 05-14-06, 12:01 PM
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Question

What the heck?!?
Fuel filter helping mileage?

Originally Posted by willie j spec
You'd be amazed at how a $3 gas filter will help. It wont give you an extra hundred miles, but you will notice the change.
Old 05-14-06, 02:27 PM
  #35  
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Wankel = Glug Glug Glug
Old 05-14-06, 02:48 PM
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I typically get 15-17 MPG pure city mileage. That's with mech secondaries. On the highway I recently got 25-26 MPG crusing at 75 MPH. Before I had mech secondaries that was closer to 29 MPG.
Old 05-14-06, 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by jezek301
I have read that the oxygen sensor makes a huge difference in gas mileage. I just changed mine today and will wait and see what happens. Historically though I have gotten shitty gas mileage.
On newer cars with wideband O2 sensors yes, on the rotarys with a single wire sensor, it makes little difference as it only comes into play during steady state cruise.
Old 05-14-06, 03:37 PM
  #38  
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You guys need to listen to Dire Straits


I want my, I want my MPG
I want my, I want my MPG
.
.
.
.
Mileage for nothin' and ....
.
Old 07-06-06, 06:27 PM
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Old 07-06-06, 06:41 PM
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Look man, my dodge dakota, 4 cylinder, out on the highway (country roads) only got 200 miles to the tank. which is very sad. my rotary engine gets my then that engine, it was a 1996 fuel injectd dodge dakota. so very very sad.
Old 07-06-06, 07:41 PM
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I'm averaging about 12mpg combined on a tank.

I'm going to play around with my jetting a little some time in the near future to try and help that.
Old 07-06-06, 08:32 PM
  #42  
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OK, here's my chance to gloat.

A couple of weeks ago I shattered my miles per tank record of 359 by putting 391 miles on a tank of gas in my 84 GSL. That's about 26 mpg for you math kids, and a nice feeling for anyone trying to get miles out of a 7, which I am. (23-24 is not bad, but how high can it go?) How'd I do it?

Well mostly I try to excede the speedlimit by only 10 mph, which means keep it between 80 and 85 here in GA. Then I tune that all stock baby up like the Mazda engineers imagined, sans cat. Then I drive the car 110 miles a day and watch the price of gas go up. Friggin Republicans.

Happy Motoring!

Ray
Old 07-06-06, 11:36 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by 84RX7'nSTi
Stock '1984 GS 12A 5-spd. 14.6 gallon tank.

I see 290-300 all highway, driving at 80mph.

I see 220-240 all city, stop light to stop light, aggravation to frustration.

I normally see 260-280 mixed suburban driving.

Mike
Ok you rookies. Quit looking at the imperial specs on fuel. We are in the USA.
Sa's are 14.5 US gals. 81-85 no matter what the model is 16.6 US gals.`
Old 07-06-06, 11:42 PM
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Originally Posted by peejay
I shift at 2k-2500, start off in 2nd gear most of the time... Of course my intake setup and ignition timing have been tweaked so there's no reason to go way up to 3500. Driving a completely stock car is such a shock, they're so *gutless*

City fuel economy will always suck. The engines seem like they use just as much fuel idling as they do cruising at 65mph, so fuel economy is directly related to how fast you're going, instead of inversely related as you might think. The only engine I ever had that I drove enough in city to get a mostly-city tank was my old streetport and it'd do 9mpg, but still 25+ on highway.
Your bogging you motor down. These motors are not designed to be shifted at that low of RPM. These are high rpm making hp engines. Shifting that low is going to shorten, no lenghten the life of the motor. When you make the motor work harder by low rpm shifting your fuel economy will suffer. Remember the more an motor struggles the more it takes to make it move. The normal range of shifting for rotaries is 3-4k minimum.

Remember less is not always better
Old 07-06-06, 11:47 PM
  #45  
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Lightbulb

Originally Posted by jezek301
I have read that the oxygen sensor makes a huge difference in gas mileage. I just changed mine today and will wait and see what happens. Historically though I have gotten shitty gas mileage.
That would mean that you have a Gsl-Se. The o'2 only comes on in 5th gear.
Old 07-06-06, 11:49 PM
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Originally Posted by ray green
OK, here's my chance to gloat.

A couple of weeks ago I shattered my miles per tank record of 359 by putting 391 miles on a tank of gas in my 84 GSL. That's about 26 mpg for you math kids, and a nice feeling for anyone trying to get miles out of a 7, which I am. (23-24 is not bad, but how high can it go?) How'd I do it?

Well mostly I try to excede the speedlimit by only 10 mph, which means keep it between 80 and 85 here in GA. Then I tune that all stock baby up like the Mazda engineers imagined, sans cat. Then I drive the car 110 miles a day and watch the price of gas go up. Friggin Republicans.

Happy Motoring!

Ray
Yes, i am in a educating mode tonight. The price of fuel has gone up because China is buying all of the offshore oil including the non-refined oil.
Old 07-06-06, 11:55 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by clean85owner
I'm averaging about 12mpg combined on a tank.

I'm going to play around with my jetting a little some time in the near future to try and help that.
Depends on how big strret port you have. Before Rotaryfest i tuned cowboyfuns 12A streetport. He has the racing beat street port exhaust. 45oer carb which i tuned before the run. I installed a lightened steel flywheel, GSl-Se diff and Se trans. At runs to the fest in excess of triple digits and an average of 90mph with no slo acceleration runs. He got 18mpg.
The worse he has gotten in town was 17mpg and averages 22mpg. You guys need to do some serious tuning
Old 07-06-06, 11:58 PM
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Thumbs up

Originally Posted by trochoid
Mikuni 44 PHH. It's supposed to be too smal for a 1/2 bridge, still haven't done much playing with the carb or taken it to the track for testing, but the wideband shows it's fat enough.
Talk to the guys at Rebello Racing in Pacheo, ca. I believe they have a website also.
Old 07-07-06, 12:01 AM
  #49  
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Lightbulb

Originally Posted by phatphill
What the heck?!?
Fuel filter helping mileage?
Rookie

If a engine is starving for fuel then it is struggling to make HP. If it struggles to make Hp then it's harder to move the vehicle down the road. Then it would use more fuel
Old 07-07-06, 12:22 AM
  #50  
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Talking

Now that i've straightended most of you rookies up


I can focus back on the thread. Seems our originator of the thread has gone into a Coma because i do not see any of the questions our fellow rotorheads answered that were directed at him.

Remember when it comes to fuel economy there are many factors involved. Some are basic.
Tire pressures. Tire alignment. Driving habits such as rabbit starts instead of smooth shifting
thru the rpm ranges till about 3-4k so the motor is not bogging down.
Regular maintenance services. That means changing your plugs and using good quality ones such as NGK. Cap and rotor changes no more than 30k between. High quality ignition wires such as NGK or better.
Air filter changes. For you guys with Kn filters they actually work better when they are alittle dirty.
You guys with A/C, it's better to run the A/c when it is hot out. That is because the windows are up and you do not have all that air pushing thru the interior of the car. Remember cars are tested for aerodynamcis with windows up, not down.
Fuel filter changes for you carb'd guys to keep the motor from struggling when it is starving for fuel.
Fi guys, run a good fuel injection cleaner thru every 30k. The best on the market is Bg's 44k which is sold at dealerships or better repair facilities. If you can't get that then look for
redlines products.
Put good quality fuel in, not meaning high octane unless your are turbo'd but good brand.
Regular oil changes. If you want a energy conserving oil then use 10w30.
Also for you carb's guys use a good cleaner for the fuel. Bg also makes a cleaner called MI3000.
The only fuel i know of that causes or has caused a major factor in the loss of MPG is in Ca. It has been changed i believe.
An example is once i took a trip in my 93 eclipse DOHC A/T with overdrive to Oregon. On that trip in Ca i averaged 32 mpg. When i hit oregon and filled up i tracked the mileage and averaged 37mpg with no change in driving habits.
If you are running webers with streetports then you are just SOL. Mikuni 44phh's on non-street ported 12A's, i got 22-25 MPG on the highway, averaged 17-19 in town.
13b motors that are carb'd suffer in the MPG game even with light driving.
My 85 Se with a racing beat header, presilencer and fabricated CAI, and also changed the gearing to the GSl 3.90 gears. On the run to rotaryfest in speeds of average of 90mph got 22mpg. Also just had the injectors cleaned and tested.
Well, looks like i'm done posting in this section. Happy motoring and remember tune,tune,tune


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