I've been thinking about throughing a 20B in my 7 but i don't know what kind of mods i would have to do to put it in there and i don't know if it would be worth the effort. What do you guy's think about it.

 

Bolts right in! go for it!

 

as long as you have the money and are willing to do the work isay go for it, as long as i get
to ride in it when your done,LOL. rx7doctor

 

Bolts right in Max 7???? are you being a smart ***? I dont know about other rotary swaps...so i hope your not playing because i would do that 20B for my 1st gen too......also how hard would it be to install a 13B Cosmo in my first gen?

 

The Cosmo 13B bolts right in to...... provided you have the right conversion mounts and such.
There are VERY few direct bolt in engines. If you want and engine in there that did not come with the car
expect it to be custom. I'm not being a smart ***, just common knowledge

99% of people who ask about a 20B conversion can't afford to do it.
98% of people who ask about a 20B conversion can't perform an engine swap
97% of people who ask about a 20B conversion can't do a search on the forum....

 

you'll get a twisted chassis

 

Worth the effort? Yes... Plenty of mods to do? Yes... Expensive? Yes...

If you can afford to have it done, cool post pics. If you haven't done anything like it before I don't suggest doing it in the backyard hoisting the engine with a tree or anything like that. lol

Not as easy as bolting it in you'll open a whole other can of worms that costs more money.

How would he twist the chassis? Does the 20B have pistons that I'm unaware about?

 

If you have to ask,your not ready.Do a TII or N/A 13B swap first.Get familiar with how other rotaries swap into the FB chassis.Learn rotary EFI,wiring,fuel and exhaust by experience.Jumping straight into a 20B swap for a 2500lb car is like putting a 16 year old kid on a GSX-R1000 to learn how to ride.Im not talking down on you,but again...if you have to ask,your not ready.
The 20B is not only rare,but ridiculously powerful and all the factory tech info is in Japanese,so deciphering the wiring scematics will be tough.

Ill let you know how I do in 6 months.Ill be tackling that task next spring.The S5 13BT is comng out and Ill be dropping in a 20B with stock turbos,ECU and fuel system.Itll make the same HP as the 13BT,but with half the manifold pressure and WAY more torque.

 

the best 20B in a FB i've seen is that yellow one with the intermediate plate from a 12A with a stationary built into it, instead of having that thick plate the 20B has, also has a custom made E shaft... i forget where that guys site is, but i can assure u, he spent a TON on it

 

and the power it makes will generally be more reliable power... ie if u got up to say, 600 hp... 20B sure would do that more reliably than a 13BT with the same hp

 

Infinately more reliable,with lowend torque to boot.The 20B is more like a small V-8 with its power delivery.Im not planning to make much more than 350-400hp.It needs to stay smoggable and not destroy the car.Id rather not have to install a different rearend every 6 months.

 

amen to that... although it might be worth a ford 8 or 9" swap eh?

 

That's not a 20B. As a matter of fact, he even calls the car "NOT20B", his site is this:
http://www.hitman.hm/

Anyway, a 20B won't be a hard thing to install as such, it's all the stuff that comes with a swap like this that make it hard/expensive.
With any none 12A or early 13B engine you'll need to have custom engine mounts. For a TII or REW this can easily be achieved by using a either modified or custom build engine bracket (RB) and a 12A or GSL-SE front cover. This system (well, obviously with an even longer bracket, of course) might work for a 20B aswell, but I'm not sure: it might be in the way of the crossmember or whatever.
The 20B might bolt up to your old gearbox, but since that one can't deal with the power, you'll need a stronger one (TII) and that'll mean more custom work. This then means a one-off driveshaft and so on.
Then you'll need a suitable ECU, a good fuel system, a good exhaust...
This is EXPENSIVE.
I'm just about ready with a TII swap, and have spent major $$$ can't even imagine what a 20B swap would be like.

 

Technically it's not a 20B. It's a custom made triple rotor using 13B housings.

 

I think the twin turbo's have a lot to do with that. Having owned a 20B Cosmo I kinda agree with you on the V8 similarity though. Peak torque comes in around 2000rpm but the difference is it actually keeps pulling up to 7000rpm In the wet it had no traction whatsoever even with 265's in the back.

 

To give you a cost estimate, a basic 20B swap will cost you at least 10 grand. Expect to pay 15 grand or more to do the swap with absolutely everything you would need. A 20B swap is not for a newbie. Like others say, go with an NA 13B or 13B turbo first. Then if for some odd reason the 300 hp that can provide doesn't satisfy you, then go to a 20B.

 

I never thought of the traction issue, was this a problem even at low to moderate throttle?

 

Its never enough once you get used to what you got.I know I could get A LOT more power from my 13BT,but I refuse to strip the block down and Haltech it.Id have to swap everything out at smog time and I just dont want the hassle.Im going for the most powerful swap availible,that can be left mostly stock, for smog and the "leave it the way it is" factor.Not to mention 20Bs are just plain cool.
Thats my plan.Keep the twins for driveability and smoothness.If they can shove a big Cosmo around like they do,my 2500lb 1st gen is gonna move with ease.

 

Plenty of people get over 400 HP from a 13B turbo.

 

True.But 400hp is close to the edge for a street driven 13B unless you start doweling and such. And its not done with the stock ECU or in a smog legal way.....

 

You'll be very happy with a stock 20B in a 1st gen. Just whack a full exhaust on there, a nice from mount and pod filter with a cold air feed and you'll have a seriously quick car.

 

Thats the best part!!!Ive already got all the goodies to go on the 20B(hee,hee)
Yet another advantage to doing a TII or 13B swap first.
Light flywheel
3" mandrel bend exhaust
Spearco front mount
Cool air intake
TII tranny
Heavy duty clutch
Howe radiator
dual oil coolers
AVC-r boost controller
Supra TT intank fuel pump......
All transferable to the 20B

 

Definately worth it. It's a **** load of work though.

In a few years when the rest of my car is up to scratch, I'll be doing a PP 20B N/A. My car is essentially a street registered circuit car, not a comfy fast street car, so a 20BPP sounds like the perfect engine!! (excuse the pun)

You gotta be realistic though and realise that it'll take alot of money, effort, time etc!

Just do it!

 

My god, I think some people are crazy. I've only got a little over 100 horsepower on my 12a, and I don't think it's slow!. If you want more than 400 horsepower on an FB you're just showing off (No problem with that!) But man 400 horsepower would be ENOUGH to suck me into my seat to worry about a 20B.

Which makes me wonder why people even bother shoving small block V8's in these. Why? You can get these light little motors doing just as well many times better.

And I used to own a supercharged vehicle, and a turbocharged vehicle. Those cars were big and heavy. Doesn't take much to make these pancakes fly!

 

It all depends on what your used to.I grew up riding fast motorcycles,on and off road.My stock RX just felt slow 10 years ago when it was stock.A 12A, even modified just didnt feel quick.Yea,it reved freely and was fun to wind out,but it just doesnt have any PULL.The 13B 4 port helped,but I hit a brick wall with carburetion and smog legallity.
The logical choice was a TII swap.Now that its been rebuilt,ported,TO4'ed and all,its very,very fast........but Im still having to wind it up to make REAL hp..... and you can buy LOTS of factory stock cars now that have nearly 300hp right out the box.I like to justify having spent so much time and effort on such an old vehicle.If it doesnt outclass a modern car in performance,I might as well sell it and buy an EVO or 350Z.I could have by now, with the money Ive spent.Plus Im right at the edge of smog legallity again with the 13BT.
A 20B will give driveabilty and lowend torque,in other words,real world power.Power to pull up hills without downshifting.Off the line PULL.The kind of power you can tap into without beating 5000+ rpms out of a 13BT.