i want to have all the parts i need before i start the swap. my perents might loan me money so its not a big issue. add to my list if im missing something:

full engine long block

stand alone EMS

(are the sensors already on the engine?)

keeping the top mount

ignition either TII or four bosch ignition coils

hmmm

 

-se oil pan, -se or 12a front cover.

 

ive got those. is that it?

 

bump

 

okay new list:

long block
FMIC
fuel pump
pressure regulator
boshe ignition coils
microtech ltx8
turbo cone air filter
i was going to drill and tap the TII front cover and remove all the emissions
anything else?

 

Drill and tap the TII front cover for what,the 1st gen motormount bar?No material to do it,and the SE oilpan wont mate to an FC front cover anyways.
Youll need a GSL-SE front cover to bolt up to the mount and SE oilpan.If your gonna run a TII engine,you have to use the SE front cover so the 2nd gen 4 line oil metering pump will bolt up.Then drill/tap below the 4 line OMP pad, for the turbo oil drain.The SE cover has an ideal little dimple in it for the drain.
The 12A front cover wont accept the 2nd gen OMP so its only sutible for carb'd or other type turbo engines that use 2 OMP lines.

 

will the SE oil pan bolt up to the TII block? have you done it? im going to use premix. i know i need to drill and tap a hole in the front cover if i use a SE. are there any other things i need to buy to do this swap?

 

The SE oilpan will bolt to the TII block,but you MUST use a 1st gen front cover.The 2nd gen front cover has a different shape at the bottom where the pan mounts.If your running premix,then any 1st gen front cover will work(12A or SE),just put a blockoff plate where the OMP goes,and drill/tap a turbo drain below it.

 

and do i need to add more to that list?

 

Youll need a downpipe,
hopefully the standalone comes with all the sensors,
youll need a decent clutch,
hope your tranny is healthy
you need to replace the small fuel return line with a stock feedline(its bigger)
make sure you can cool it (water and oil)
S5 turbo has a way better manifold and wastegate,but youll need a boost controller to get more than 5psi.The S4 turbo can hit 8psi but youll be creeping and the manifold design sucks.

 

Full exhaust, I would use AN lines and fittings and do it right, upgrade that radiator and a electric fan, use the stock IC in a frontmount position(way better),

 

AN lines are nice and professional,but excessive if your not running monster numbers.I do just fine with stock hardlines(bigger return from stock),EFI clamps and EFI rubber hose.Simple,inexpensive,and mimicks factory design on the TII.

If your gonna run the pipe for a FMIC,then spend a few extra bucks on a decent IC.The stocker has no mass and little surface area,it will heat soak quickly even in a front mount position.You can score a MUCH better IC for little cash....used NPR(150-300),new Spearco from Boostcoolers(350-450),or various other used applications(0-200)......

 

what are AN lines
and will the stock steel lines hold all the pressure?

 

EFI only runs 35-50psi.The steel lines are nothing to worry about,the rubber lines need to be changed to EFI rubber hose and smooth EFI hose clamps.Easy,cheap...hit Pepboys for it.

AN lines are the fancy red/blue anodized, thread on end fittings with steel braided lines,ect,ect.
Its nice,very professional and it will rarely ever fail.Great for ***** out, CANT AFFORD TO HAVE A PROBLEM,EVER....usage like race vehicles,airplanes,serious usage stuff.
Rubber lines and clamps work fine for 100K+ miles on 99.9% of cars on the road.

 

my mechanic suggested to get the steel braded lines. i am also going to be streetporting it, with racebearings, and run a lot of boost

 

If your running more than 14psi,then hardened stationaries and S4 rotors should be employed.Oil pressure and water jacket mods should also be only your list.They dont cost much and will help with survivability.

Nothing wrong with braided fuel lines,its just not critical.Most steel braided lines are rated for pressures in the thousands.Fuel and oil lines on cars rarely ever exceed 100psi working pressure.I work on tractors for a living,most steel braid reinforced lines on hydraulic equipement are rated for 4000psi WP.Bursting pressure is like 6000psi.Way overkill...........

 

Race bearings are for HIGH reving NA engines. You will not need with a turbo staying below 7k rpm. Are you having a mechanic do this?

 

How do I contact boostcoolers, I may want a spearco?

 

They usually have products for sale on Ebay.I got my bar and plate IC for $400 NEW!!!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...y/DSC01407.jpg

 

thanks, looks good!