So the promble is this,.... When I turn the key into on position before turning the car on. You know when you get your lights on the dash that turn on like the brake, sit-bell, exhaust etc... You also get your battery gauge on, and fuel gauge also. Well, I would assume that the oil one will not move until I actually turn the car on but, it go from 0-100 with out turning the car on. Weird huh?

So today I just unplug the Oil Pressure gauge connector & Oil level guage connector from the side of the engine. Try to clean them and try to see if my gauge would go up if I turn the key to on possition. It dose and it go from 0-100 which is weird so, I clean them and plug them back up.

Now the other problem is this, when I am driving and stop at a stop light when having my headlights on, I press the brake to wait at the light and the RPM niddle start to bounce up and down and it feels like power is being drain away from the engine. Any idea?

Any advice would be great. Thanks In Advance!

-Angel

 

Idle bounce sounds like a vacuum leak in the brake system. Could be a simple as a bad rubber hose in the brake vac system, or the brake booster is leaking internally.

Either the condensor for the op gauge isn't hooked up, the wire to the gauge is grounding some where, the guage or sender is bad.

 

Hmm.... I c,... So, how would the Idle be affected by a vacuum leak in the brake system? Also I am not losing brake fluid so far that I have notices.

What is a condensor?

So, in what area should I check to see where this oil gauge wire isn't hooked up?

You meantion that the guage or the sender could be bad. Where is the sender located?

 

If the tach bounces at idle with the lights on, but the engine is not surging, you simply have a weak charging system. Could be the alt not putting out enough, or it could be a loose connection in the wiring.
I had this issue, and even swapping to an S4 alt didn't help. Turned out, the main power wire on the positive battery cable was not making a good connection.
OP gauge issue sounds like the sender is bad, or the wire is grounding somewhere. The sender is just a variable grounding unit. The higher the pressure, the more it grounds the gauge.

 

OHHH! Interesting.... Any tips on what I should do for the tach bounces problem? and any advice on OP gauge issue?

 

Yeah. For the tach issue, check your connections, and tighten any found to be loose or corroded.
The OP gauge issue, try unhooking the wire, and turn on the ignition. If it still goes all the way over to 100, start tracing the wire, till you find where it is grounding. Between the engine and trans is always a good place to look. You'd be surprised now many times a wire can get pinched in there during an engine or trans install.

 

Cool, now the OP gauge wire at the engine. Are you talking about one of the two wires neat the oil line buttom left side of the engine? Or is this the one under the oil filter on a little grenade looking sensor thingy?

 

That would be the one.

 

Oh ok, well I did disconnected that wire and when I turn the ignition into on position it did go from 0 to pass 100 on the oil gauge. So then I guess I have a bad ground somewhere.
Could the bad ground be from a different wire or would it be from the same wire?

Also could the sensor be tested using some kind of after market mechanical oil guage?

 

Hey Angel,

Sounds like the wire for the sending unit is being grounded somewhere. Check to see if the wire is being pinched between the engine and transmission as Rogue Wolf said. If you have a multimeter, you can measure the resistance between the wire and ground. If the wire is being grounded somewhere (pinched or a short on the circuit board), the resistance will read 0.

Kent

 

Cool, thanks Kent!, I will look into it soon once this damn rain stop pouring here in Seattle.

 

Weir, today started driving the car and when I got to my destination and turn off the car. I then got back to leave and my oil guage was now showing 0 instead of being at 110 like it normaly dose. I drove about 15 to 20mins on the freeway and the car drove fine. However the meter is now reading 0. Any idea?