1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

1985 rx7 keeps flooding!

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Old Oct 15, 2015 | 07:24 PM
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1985 rx7 keeps flooding!

Hello i am working on an 85 rx7. had running issues, I went through the carb (Nikki) and cleaned it all out, got new needle valves and seats, all new gaskets. Got it all back together, wouldnt start so I pulled out the spark plugs, top left spark plug was SOAKED in fuel. this made me think the needle valve was sticking allowing fuel to constantly flow in. I messed with it some more, tried putting some vaseline on them to help it seat. put it all back together, still floodings. I took the fuel line off the carb to see how much fuel it was putting out and its ALOT. it constantly is non stop pumping a ton of fuel. i didnt know if that was normal on these cars or what. idk if my fuel pump is bad or the regulator. please help i dont know much about these cars!
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Old Oct 16, 2015 | 02:06 AM
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Your in trouble . Jeff is going to yell at you . You were suppose to leave the original needles and seats in . Aftermarket needles and seats = trash . If you still have the originals put them back in.
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Old Oct 16, 2015 | 05:00 AM
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If you did not adjust the floats to factory specs then they could be way out of adjustment and not shutting off fuel flow to the carb. Check the front sight glass and see how much fuel is and where the level is in the float bowl. Should be half way to 3/4 up.

There will be a lot of fuel flow to the carb but the pump should only run when the engine is being turned over by the starter and when the engine is running. If its still pumping in gas with the key in the on position, you have an issue that could be related to the fuel pump relay.
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Old Oct 16, 2015 | 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by heynoman
Your in trouble . Jeff is going to yell at you . You were suppose to leave the original needles and seats in . Aftermarket needles and seats = trash . If you still have the originals put them back in.
I knew I kept the original needles and seat for a reason! I still got them. I'll try putting them back in thanks!
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Old Oct 16, 2015 | 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by mazdaverx713b
If you did not adjust the floats to factory specs then they could be way out of adjustment and not shutting off fuel flow to the carb. Check the front sight glass and see how much fuel is and where the level is in the float bowl. Should be half way to 3/4 up.

There will be a lot of fuel flow to the carb but the pump should only run when the engine is being turned over by the starter and when the engine is running. If its still pumping in gas with the key in the on position, you have an issue that could be related to the fuel pump relay.
I haven't messed with the float level at all but the fuel level is right at the bottom of the glass. How should I go about adjusting the float
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Old Oct 16, 2015 | 09:09 AM
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If the floats were fine before the rebuild do not adjust them. There should be no reason to adjust them unless you already messed with them. Can you visually see fuel flowing out of the the carb . You say the fuel bowls are near empty which leads me to believe you fuel flooding issue is not from the fuel bowls .

Last edited by heynoman; Oct 16, 2015 at 09:14 AM.
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Old Oct 17, 2015 | 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by heynoman
Your in trouble . Jeff is going to yell at you . You were suppose to leave the original needles and seats in . Aftermarket needles and seats = trash . If you still have the originals put them back in.
Put the original needle and seats in the carb and it ran like a champ and stopped flooding! Thanks!
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Old Oct 18, 2015 | 04:43 AM
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There is a procedure in the FSM that describes how to adjust the floats. The adjustment is done with the gasket on the air horn and the air horn inverted and then again with the air horn as it would sit on the carb. The measurement is taken from the air horn gasket to the bottom of the float. If the fuel level is at the bottom of the float bowl, the float is out of adjustment. It needs to be at the half way mark or slightly higher. You ALWAYS check the float level when doing a carb rebuild. I rebuild several per year and find that the floats need just a shade of adjustment each time to be perfect.
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