1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

1985 RX7, 1st gen. GS - Clutch frozen

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Old Jul 10, 2016 | 12:23 AM
  #1  
karabear's Avatar
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From: Portland, Oregon
1985 RX7, 1st gen. GS - Clutch frozen

I had my car towed and now the clutch will not depress, hard as a rock. Clutch was fine before that. The tow truck was not a flatbed but it had an attachment that the front wheels rested on with the rear of the car up in the air. I don't think the wheels made contact with the ground while being transported but we did push it forward after it was taken off the tow truck. What could have happened? I had a new clutch slave and master less than 300 miles ago. What can I try? Need to sell it but people want to drive it before buying it.
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Old Jul 10, 2016 | 09:42 AM
  #2  
GSLSEforme's Avatar
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From: Maryland
Originally Posted by karabear
I had my car towed and now the clutch will not depress, hard as a rock. Clutch was fine before that. The tow truck was not a flatbed but it had an attachment that the front wheels rested on with the rear of the car up in the air. I don't think the wheels made contact with the ground while being transported but we did push it forward after it was taken off the tow truck. What could have happened? I had a new clutch slave and master less than 300 miles ago. What can I try? Need to sell it but people want to drive it before buying it.
Look at fluid level/color in clutch master cylinder reservoir. Have someone try to depress clutch pedal while you observe release arm on bellhousing for movement. If no movement,unbolt slave cylinder from bellhousing and have assistant press clutch pedal SLOWLY & just enough to see if pedal moves and slave cylinder piston also moves. Do NOT push clutch pedal any more than this as you risk pushing piston from slave cylinder. You are trying to separate the clutch hydraulics from the mechanical release mechanism(release arm/throwout bearing) to determine cause of problem. If the pedal/slave cylinder moves easily,the problem is in the release arm,throwout bearing/pressure plate and will require transmission removal to diagnose/repair. Is the clutch original,has the car sat for a long time since clutch master/slave cylinders were replaced? Do you know for certain DOT 3 or 4 fluid were used when new parts were installed? If was some other type brake fluid,or some other fluid used,possible incompatibility of fluid could have caused seals to swell while car was not being driven causing components to seize in their bores & give you the rock hard pedal yo describe. Towing the car should not have caused this. Speaking of towing,does the car run? Is it possible it sat(somewhere damp) long enough that flywheel/clutch disc/pressure plate are rusted together? Seen this often with vehicles that were stored/didn't run for a long time.
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Old Jul 10, 2016 | 05:59 PM
  #3  
karabear's Avatar
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From: Portland, Oregon
Clutch works!

Well, now I feel stupid, my husband went out and pushed the clutch in. It was stiff but he was able to push it in, we drove the car and it shifts fine!! So relieved! But thank you for all your suggestions! Now there is another problem though. The buzzer that usually sounds when you turn the key to accessory remains on while the engine is running. We couldn't get it to turn off. Is that a warning buzzer that something in the engine isn't okay. Popped the top on the radiator and the water was circulating while engine running because the water level dropped. But the temperature gauge remained at cold even after engine running for 10 minutes. Does the car have a warning buzzer when engine overheats?? Any other cause or reason for alarm/buzzer sound???

Thanks!!
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