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I rebuilt my GSL-SE using cryo seals from Atkins Rotary, used the original irons, and 2 rotor housings I got on Ebay that are in excellent condition. I even replaced the main bearings and rotor bearings. I was meticulous about the build, watching YouTubes of professional shops build theirs and made sure to replicate their work as precisely as possible.
So, I wasn't able to start it when I got the motor back in. I verified spark, fuel injectors, but when I looked at the compression (using a regular compression gauge and removed the meter valve) I noticed I was low on both rotors - no more than about 30psi and even lower on 2 of the rotor faces. That's enough to get discouraged about because it was a good build in my opinion - so why such poor compression?
Anyway, I decided that maybe the seals just have to expand with centrifugal force that you can't get with a regular starter which can only turn the shaft about 250rpm, the rotors even less.
My friend helped me to tow it today, and we pulled it around for a while while in 2nd gear, keeping the rpm's up til I felt like the motor was ready, and then I turned the ignition key on while we were in motion and it started! I was able to keep it running for a minute as long as I kept it no less than 2500rpm. Lots of smoke at first, but after a couple minutes the smoke cleared and I just had a little coming out of the tailpipe.
Great. but thing is, only a few secs after it started running, the Add Coolant light came on along with a LOUD constant buzzer sound. I ignored it at first because I know the cooling system is full of coolant, all the cooling hoses, thermostat, water pump, radiator and other components are brand new. But after a couple minutes of running the radiator cap started to blow steam and water, so I shut it off. I can't start it up again normally and it will require a push again to get it going.
I also for some reason don't have any working gauges on the dash, except for oil pressure, which looked good, all others not working.
Only other thing I should point out is I deleted the rats nest when I put it back together. Hopefully everyone knows what that means.
Any advice would be great. I think this thing is almost there! I attached a couple pics of the rebuild when it was in progress.
Pull a plug and see if it's wet with water/coolant.
You might try getting a pressure tester. Hook it up to the rad cap opening, pump it up to 20 psi and see if you get any water in the plugs.
Atkins and Pineapple Racing both sell a little block off plate that goes where the water pump housing sits to pressure test engine before adding water/coolant and putting everything back into the car. I know it's a little late for that now but it's cheap insurance before going through all the work of putting the engine in the car.
Thanks for the advice. Very discouraging if there's a bad seal between irons and housing allowing coolant leak. The engine went together great, and I even second guessed myself and took the sandwich apart again just to double check something before putting it back together again.
I'll check it out and get back to the thread.
You pinched one of your seals when you sandwiched the motor back together. That coolant seal is allowing compression from one of the rotors into your coolant track, which is pressurizing the radiator and overpowering the radiator cap. As stated above, pulling plugs on each rotor housing will tell you front or rear. Now that you know its a bad coolant seal, you also know its letting coolant into your housings when you shut it down, which will quickly cause rust and corrosion on your new housings, rotor seals and wherever the coolant can pool inside where its not supposed to be.
You need to get that engine apart again and cleaned out quickly. Rust never sleeps.
Additionally, that non-stop buzzer you heard was the Add Coolant warning as controlled by the Oscillator. It's function is to warn the driver when coolant level drops (*in your case, pressurized air was forced into the system, forcing the coolant out into your overflow), or the oil level drops so that the driver won't continue to run the engine in conditions that will quickly lead to overheating. You probably didn't damage it due to overheat, but without working gauges, how would you know? Get those gauges working before you try this again.
Pull the engine soon and get it apart. You won't know what seals you need to replace until its in pieces and cleaned up again. Good luck,
I love this site. Thanks for the advice. We've been on vacation for 2 weeks since getting it started the first time, so just getting back to it.
Your assessment makes sense. I agree it's still a possibility.
So, I just completed a pressure test. There was a weak spot - a 3/8"cooling hose that goes from the side of the thermostat housing to the intake, then back into the motor via the rear iron. I replaced it. I performed another test and the pressure holds steady at 15lbs and doesn't bleed off. The plugs and chambers remain dry.
I understand the idea that I may have pinched a seal, but it's what led me to assemble the block twice; during the rebuild I was afraid of a faulty seal, so to be sure I took it back apart and put it together again. I was wearing reading glasses and a headlamp, and carefully watching as I lowered each section on to the next until I couldn't see anymore. I'm sure the block went together well.
Upon first startup, it did run longer than I recalled, and at a stand still. The initial timing was way off for Trailing (I just corrected it), and I can't yet verify good circulation - could the old heater core that's sat for many years be blocking? Also, though I did use brand new parts for the cooling system, including radiator, I'm embarrassed to admit I used the original radiator cap which goes back to 1985. They just didn't have one in stock at my local parts warehouse so I figured this one was good enough to use for first start.
As for gauges, I had used an ECU from the junk yard a while back when I was troubleshooting spark and injector issues. I just put the original ECU back today and gauges work now.
In any case, I still think your guess is a possibility and I'm gonna work to prove it. Hopefully I can't and it's something else. It would obviously be great if at least the core was good, but a cracked iron is also possible I suppose.
I included a short .mov of the engine running the first time, for whatever it's worth. The smoke had cleared and it was running smooth, but wouldn't keep running if it fell below 2K. I haven't tried a second startup until I finish some more diagnostics.
I'll update this thread when there's more to report.
07-18-21, 08:29 PM
