ebodyboy

GEEZ - - I am trying to Edit but cannot change the title. This is a CLUTCH master cylinder. Sorry I did not proof read.
I am seeking tips on easiest way to remove the faulty part - specifically the two nuts under the dash. I've experienced cramped work areas before but this looks horrible. I do plan to remove the seats as the carpet likely has fluid under it. Best tools? Sockets etc.?

j_tso

iTrader: (2)

Definitely need a stubby rachet and a deep socket, I might have also used a wobble joint but I don't remember.

ATC529R

I used a ratchet, socket, extension and swivel. it's pretty easy. just two nuts once you zero in on it.

but the cramped OMG!!! I have a bigger slave cylinder and mounted a little to the left of OEM (right up against the drivers side) and a linkage to the clutch pedal. The linkage has done me dirty 2 times now, and I now have as hard metal as you can in there because adjust that is a REAL PITA!

just hope this holds or I'm gonna need to break out the welder.

midnight mechanic

Remove the driver's seat. 4 bolts, makes it much easier to do the master clutch cylinder.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

the bottom nut is really easy, so do this last. the top nut is a PITA. i don't recall what i used last time, but 1/4" drive ratchet is your friend with these cars

Banzai

iTrader: (13)

The studs included with new clutch masters are kind of notorious for having too much unthreaded portion in the middle. Upon re assembly, after getting the nuts started and run up you find they bottom out up against that unthreaded portion before fully securing the housing to the fire wall. You may want to compare them to the ones in the master you are replacing. You can re-use the old ones or throw a couple washers on the studs before installing the nuts. Your welcome.....

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

^^^^^ That advice is spot on!! I typically try and use my original studs but when I put a new clutch master cylinder on my 80 last fall, the threads were different from the current one I was replacing. I used a couple of washers and it worked perfectly. Few things worse than getting wedged under the dash only to find that the studs are too long and back out you go for a solution.

rsv1rx7

Agreed, top nut is a tough job. Made mine easy with one of these. Didn't remove anything just protected the carpet. Good luck.

ebodyboy

All good advice - - but what size specific and where purchased?

rsv1rx7

If the wrench, 10mm and most any hardware store or Harbor Freight.

82transam

iTrader: (18)

The nuts are 12mm - I usually (always) remove the rod that goes from the pedal to the master cylinder. It's just a small e-clip and off it comes - much easier to access the top nut using normal tools.

Also - Banzai makes a great point about the studs - Too much unthreaded section and you can't tighten it down. I re-use the old studs as well.

Also - I changed the title for you.

ebodyboy

Almost four months later and repair still not done. Combination of hot weather, sore back and no panic as car need not be moved for at least five more weeks. Still looks like a horror show to gain access. I did remove seat and lift carpet section so three months of airing it out pretty much dried up any brake fluid.

p.s. And I still haven't located a decent roof panel - - at a decent price,

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

you can do it like a British car, sit on the ground next to the car, and you're kind of right there

Toruki

I just did this and a clutch slave cylinder replacement. I had no deep sockets for the master so I used an offset box wrench and made many tiny, oh so tiny, 15° arc turns and then my fingers.