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Hoping I can get some help on this one. I spent some time searching and couldn't find anything.
I've had my RX7 GSL SE for about 10 years. No electrical issues during that time. I have put up with a non-working radio and finally decided to replace the bone stock radio stack with another bone stock radio stack sold as working.
I took off the vent cover thing, removed the old radio, and installed the replacement. Looked pretty idiot proof. I removed bone stock and installed bone stock. All connectors were re-attached with no problem. Verified the radio worked after installation. Right side is weak and there is "popping" as I adjust volume, but that's another issue for another day.
All seemed good, but later that night I decided to go for a run and noticed my dash lights are not coming on. As well, I don't seem to have lights to heat dial, fan strength dial, and ash try (light wasn't there before, though, so don't know if it was working before). Everything else appears fine. Turn sign lights are good, radio stack lights are on, front lights, interior map light, etc. It runs and sounds great.
When I was connecting the radio I noticed one connector was disconnected. This one is located by the stick shift:
I did re-attach the one prong connector assuming it should have been attached in the first place. The other multi-prong connector doesn't seem to have any corresponding connector, so it was left alone.
After discovering my dash lights out, I've done the following:
- removed radio
- checked all fuses under the steering wheel with multi-meter to verify continuity and re-seated
- disconnected the one prong connector above
Started it up and dash lights are still out.
I've looked around the radio and I don't see any connectors I could have messed with.
I'm not sure where to go from here. Is there a connector I could try reseating? I don't think I pulled a wire, but certainly a possibility when taking the radio out.
The male/female bullet connector you found by shifter that was disconnected should remain so. It would have been used to illuminate auto trans shifter. Mazda put same harness in all Rx7 models of your year. Lots of people make same mistake,you're definitely not the first to do so. This usually blows the associated fuse for dash lights,have had them look/test good and not be. Replace with another- after you disconnect bullet connector by shifter. If lights still not working,sometimes the short that blows the fuse damages the dimmer. Reach up behind dash and release cable clamp from harness,depress 2 tabs and push dimmer out of dash. Pull connector thru and with your multimeter check for voltage going in and out of dimmer at connector. If dimmer is damaged it can be jumped to get lights working,they will be full bright. May be able to purchase a used dimmer from another member here. Post back what you find,may help someone else later on that reads your thread.
The male/female bullet connector you found by shifter that was disconnected should remain so. It would have been used to illuminate auto trans shifter. Mazda put same harness in all Rx7 models of your year. Lots of people make same mistake,you're definitely not the first to do so. This usually blows the associated fuse for dash lights,have had them look/test good and not be. Replace with another- after you disconnect bullet connector by shifter. If lights still not working,sometimes the short that blows the fuse damages the dimmer. Reach up behind dash and release cable clamp from harness,depress 2 tabs and push dimmer out of dash. Pull connector thru and with your multimeter check for voltage going in and out of dimmer at connector. If dimmer is damaged it can be jumped to get lights working,they will be full bright. May be able to purchase a used dimmer from another member here. Post back what you find,may help someone else later on that reads your thread.
Damn! Didn't think I would do damage by plugging those in. Lesson learned. Thanks.
You don't happen to know which fuse controls the dash? I looked and it wasn't obvious to me. I did check all the fuses, but I would replace it if I know which one it is.
If that fails, I'll definitely look at the dimmer.
When I checked the fuses (after causing the problem), I noticed one was over fused. I'm betting it's the one and the dimmer is damaged. I did go out and buy the correct fuse. Should have checked those years ago.
In that bullet connector,one side is power from dash light circuit,the other is ground. Plugging them together creates a dead short.
Position# 2 in fusebox and 10 amp fuse is what is specified in answer to your question.
In that bullet connector,one side is power from dash light circuit,the other is ground. Plugging them together creates a dead short.
Position# 2 in fusebox and 10 amp fuse is what is specified in answer to your question.
Thanks. I'll check that today. I recall one was over fused and I'm betting that's the one. Wish I had checked the fuses before. Hopefully I haven't screwed anything else up...other than dimmer.
In that bullet connector,one side is power from dash light circuit,the other is ground. Plugging them together creates a dead short.
Position# 2 in fusebox and 10 amp fuse is what is specified in answer to your question.
Question 1: I took a picture of my fusebox. Do you mean the fuse identified as "Cigar"?
That one was properly fused. "Tail Illumin." was over fused. I've corrected that now.
Originally Posted by GSLSEforme
Reach up behind dash and release cable clamp from harness,depress 2 tabs and push dimmer out of dash.
I tried and tried to reach behind the dash, but it's impossible for me. I don't have meaty hands, but that space is too tight.
I did some further searching on the forum and someone mentioned gently prying it out and then pull the wire out. I was able to gently pry the dimmer out, but the connector is far in the back.
I figured I could remove the lower dash and get access behind then disconnect it. After removing most of the screws for the lower left dash, it wasn't moving. I looked under neath and saw there are two screws attached to the dash in front of the fuse box. The fuse box makes it impossible to take them out.
Question 2 :Any ideas on how to remove the fuse box?
So this is where I am stuck:
I have the dimmer out, but that's as far as I could take it. I did decide to take it apart and look at the components. If fried, I would expect to see something burned. All looked good.
I'd still like to remove it and verify I'm getting power to it.
Appreciate your help.
Last edited by TwilightZone; Aug 1, 2017 at 08:03 PM.
Sorry about fuse designation,been some time since i was into a fusebox on one of these. 10amp fuse is tail/illum marked. If you have running lights front and rear and sidemarker lamps lit,this fuse is good. Also means circuit from combination switch is good.
Shouldn't need to remove fusebox to get to retention clip for dimmer switch. I know there's not a lot of room up under the dash,hard to get your head up in there,especially wearing glasses like me. When installed the back of the dimmer switch resides over top of fusebox bracket. With it out like you have it,should be able to peek up in there with a penlight and see backside of dimmer and its harness,clip that holds it and connector. Once you relieve harness from clip there is enough to pull it and connector thru mounting hole in dash.
Sorry about fuse designation,been some time since i was into a fusebox on one of these. 10amp fuse is tail/illum marked. If you have running lights front and rear and sidemarker lamps lit,this fuse is good. Also means circuit from combination switch is good.
Shouldn't need to remove fusebox to get to retention clip for dimmer switch. I know there's not a lot of room up under the dash,hard to get your head up in there,especially wearing glasses like me. When installed the back of the dimmer switch resides over top of fusebox bracket. With it out like you have it,should be able to peek up in there with a penlight and see backside of dimmer and its harness,clip that holds it and connector. Once you relieve harness from clip there is enough to pull it and connector thru mounting hole in dash.
Thanks again and no need to apologize. Really appreciate your help
I couldn't figure out how to disconnect the dimmer, so went a different route. I took the dimmer apart.
I can confirm I'm getting power and using a multi-meter confirmed the transistor on the dimmer is shorted. I'm looking for a replacement transistor now. Once that's installed, I should be good to go.
In the meantime, I'd like to by pass the dimmer. This, I think, would mean connecting two wires. I cut the wires at the dimmer (very close to the pcb, so will be able to fix later). There are three wires: Red Green, Red Blue, and Black. Which wires do I connect to bypass the dimmer?
I'll report back once I replace the transistor. If that is the only thing blown, might be useful info for someone in the future. Rather than trying to find a used dimmer switch, might be easier to simply fix it.