akman360

I've been trying to start my 1980 rx7 12A, and it won't start. Gas is getting to the carb, as you crank a haze of gas fumes can be seen from the carb. I've un-flooded the engine a few times by removing the spark plugs and cranking. I'm thinking that the problem lies in the distributor. I've taken it apart, cleaned the points, and checked the wires for good continuity. The timing seems off because the engine sputters when cranking, but won't continue running/ firing. I've all ready checked for good compression, and the apex seals are fine. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Aaron
1980 Mazda RX7

djessence

When was the last time it was running. Have you done anything to the car since then?

Do you have strong spark to all 4 plugs?

if you havent messed with your timing or related stuff then dont assume its off.

bliffle

This is one time when it's nice to have the old mechanical points distributor system because it means you can "static time" the engine while it is not running. Before electronic ignition we did this all the time and you can get the timing right on simply and quickly. I wish I knew a way to do it on electronic ignitions.

Here's the post I made a couple months ago for a guy with a 79SA:

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...me#post7971195

I should add that when you're done check to make sure the dist rotor is pointing at the "L1" plug wire.

Also, mechanical points require different plugs from electronic ignition, namely, about .025-.030" gap instead of the .050-.060" that is pre-gapped on typical BR9EQ14s. Since modern plugs are factory pre-gapped find the correct plug with the proper gap. I don't remember what it is, but I found them , probably at sparkplugs.com for my 74 REPU which has the same setup.

akman360

I checked the leading and trailing timing and it was set correctly. I also checked for spark at all 4 plugs and the plugs have good spark. I just the bought the car and I think it has been sitting for at least 10+ years do to the sales receipts that came with it. The current odometer reading is 103,430. I think the last time that It was driven was in 1995 but i'm not sure. Is it possible that the engine would not start due to a bad seal somewhere? The engine has good compression, but there is always a possibility. Bad gas has also been ruled out, I've disconnected the fuel lines and have tried a mixture of good gas and starting fluid.
Thanks

7aull

iTrader: (2)

My 80 wouldn't start this spring after winter storage. period. Spark at plugs "looked" good, too. New cap, rotor and plugs and it started fine....
Otherwise, if incorrectly stored, maybe carb gummed up and needs a rebuild??
'Luck
Stu Aull
80GS
(Fairbanks) Alaska

wecycle

It might be worth trying a tow start.
Are you familiar with how the RX7 choke works?
Have you tried starting with jumper cables from another vehicle at fast idle?

Kentetsu

Dump a couple of ounces of Seafoam down the carb and try again...

©ØÐËߣüË

iTrader: (1)

are you sure the gas is good

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

it will flood it more dont you think???

orion84gsl

iTrader: (5)

True but it may help loosen any sludge or carbon that may be stuck in there. He did say the car had been sitting for a very long time.

Kentetsu

No, it won't. My old motor had a hard time with flooding, due to the low compression of the worn out apex seals. As a result, I've become a bit of an expert on getting a flooded 12a running again. And since I am so lazy, of course I came up with the fastest and simplest way of getting it done.

The Seafoam works so well, I've given up all other methods of deflooding. The **** actually cleans your spark plugs for you while you deflood it! Let's see some ATF do that!

akman360

Well, after much consideration, I've began the replacement of the engine. I didn't think that the apex seals were worn at first, but after a closer examination, I've found that they were completely shot. The engine had been previously seized (carbon locked?) and I guess the seals were ruined in the process of un-seizing the engine. I've hooked a PSI meter to the engine to measure the compression, and it came up at a whopping 0 PSI. Today I removed the original engine for the car, and am going to replace it with a 12A out of a 1982 RX7, which came with the car for free when I bought it. I have currently moved the intake manifold, the carburetor, exhaust manifold, and almost everything else from the 1980 12A to the 1982 12A. Tomorrow I'm going to try to get the "new" engine installed in the 80 RX7. As for pull starting it, I can't as it's an automatic , unlike my other 80 RX7, which is a manual. I will post videos of the whole ordeal after I get it running.
Aaron

7aull

iTrader: (2)

Aaron-
just pulled my 12a for a rebuild out of one of my 80s yesterday! What are the odds up here in Pick-Up Land (aka Alaska)?? Good luck to us both-
Stu Aull
80GSs
Alaska (Fairbanks)

akman360

After a few annoying hours of trying to mount a new engine, I'm stuck. Does anybody know of an easy way to get the engine and the transmission to fit together in a reasonable way? On mine, the exhaust pipe, the transmission, and the motor mounts all want to go to a different place. I'll keep trying though.

akman360

Here's a video of trying to get it started before we switched out the engine. We couldn't get the engine to mount to the transmission, because the pilot bearing was still in the engine from the old car which had a standard transmission. This is now out, and the engine should go back together fine.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O270KcdXxRs

Kentetsu

Watched your video, very nice looking car dude! Get rid of that WD-40 and pick up some PB Blaster instead. You'll never go back...

By the way the engine sounded, it seems that you had a timing issue along with bad flooding. You could not hear even one chamber that sounded like it had compression, and the chances of all of the apex seals being bad are astronomical. I still say you should have tried the Seafoam before pulling that motor out, but hoepfully the new motor will work out for you.

When you get the old one out, pull off the exhaust manifold and look at the apex seals while you rotate the engine. Good luck with the new ride.

akman360

Ok. I've got the new engine in, but have disconvered that coolant is leaking into the engine itself and mixing with the oil. I'm thinking of trying the method on this site: http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/1s..._seal_fix.html
Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

Scott1982

Your engine is ~25 years old - maybe tear her apart, inspect and put in new soft seals? She will treat you kindly (and doesn't need money to go to the mall)

Kentetsu

I posted some info in your other thread, describing how I dealt with this issue. The method I used is much, much easier than that listed on rotaryresurrection. Hope this helps...

akman360

Ok, so I figured out what was the leaky "coolant". I think that my engine had a bunch of crap in it from being sitting, as the engine that I swapped was sitting for 5+ years in Alaska (extreme temperature changes) and now, since I've run it for a bit, the engine does not smoke. The smoke that I was seeing was only crap burning from the engine. Now that I have it running fine, I have discovered that the engine won't idle. Could this be caused by a vacuum leak, or is the timing a more likely suspect? I've also put a link to the video of my RX7 not idling.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r_WgBXHydsc