1980 rx7 in LKQ Yard
07-13-23, 05:17 PM
#27
Senior Newbie Member
For 84/85 they do. 79-80 it is NLA . The bungs are also glued together by mazda so using aftermarket AN fittings requires you to burn the glue off .
Kansas's method is by far the cheapest if you want new gear. I really don't see the issue with old oil coolers , you can always weld the bungs to make it stronger , I used a lot if JB weld on mine around the base of the neck just to prevent any stress marks from growing there.
Also I'm not defending it because I want to sell my Oil cooler , I have decided NOT too sell it. All I'm saying is I have never heard any one say their oil cooler blew up or started leaking from age. It is a non wear part as far as I aware . As long as the bungs are not broken ( avoided by using crush washers) then you should be fine . Aftermarket oil coolers are also safe but they just require fab work . I guess It's safe to tell a man not to risk buying a product that may not work and to avoid any conflicts on the forums. The only reason I pulled this one was because this one was Bone dry. The one at the last yard was drenched in oil and I left it because It probably was busted but it turned out to be just fine .
I'm a big promoter of re using and recycling old parts , i just don't want people to shy away from doing so because the part might fail.
We have all bought NEW parts that have failed right out of the box , During covid my master cylinder started leaking and I paid over 100$ for a new one on rock auto , It leaked right out of the box . I ended up fixing my old one by using O rings to push the seals higher which worked ( and people tell you not to mess with that but hey It's been three years ).
It's good to have options at the end of the day , and it's good to inspect parts new or old for failure and a healthy dose of paranoia can save you from costly repairs .
That is Important without a doubt are your oil lines. Replace them and read the post on here of how to install them safety without breaking anything .
Kansas's method is by far the cheapest if you want new gear. I really don't see the issue with old oil coolers , you can always weld the bungs to make it stronger , I used a lot if JB weld on mine around the base of the neck just to prevent any stress marks from growing there.
Also I'm not defending it because I want to sell my Oil cooler , I have decided NOT too sell it. All I'm saying is I have never heard any one say their oil cooler blew up or started leaking from age. It is a non wear part as far as I aware . As long as the bungs are not broken ( avoided by using crush washers) then you should be fine . Aftermarket oil coolers are also safe but they just require fab work . I guess It's safe to tell a man not to risk buying a product that may not work and to avoid any conflicts on the forums. The only reason I pulled this one was because this one was Bone dry. The one at the last yard was drenched in oil and I left it because It probably was busted but it turned out to be just fine .
I'm a big promoter of re using and recycling old parts , i just don't want people to shy away from doing so because the part might fail.
We have all bought NEW parts that have failed right out of the box , During covid my master cylinder started leaking and I paid over 100$ for a new one on rock auto , It leaked right out of the box . I ended up fixing my old one by using O rings to push the seals higher which worked ( and people tell you not to mess with that but hey It's been three years ).
It's good to have options at the end of the day , and it's good to inspect parts new or old for failure and a healthy dose of paranoia can save you from costly repairs .
That is Important without a doubt are your oil lines. Replace them and read the post on here of how to install them safety without breaking anything .
Last edited by Frogman; 07-13-23 at 05:34 PM.
07-14-23, 09:20 AM
#28
I actually have two that I am willing to sell. One has AN fittings on it and came off my racecar when I changed mounting locations. I know for sure there are no leaks. The other one has the stock bungs that look good. I can pressure test if you are interested. I am thinking $80 for the stock bunged cooler and $100 for the one with AN fittings. That does not include shipping. I shipped the one that Jose (Frogman) mentioned above, but can't remember how much the shipping was. Let me know if you (or anyone else) is interested and I can get you further info.
Carl
Carl
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