350xfire

iTrader: (1)

Was wondering, can all of the electrical connections to a 1980 Nikki be run disconnected? I am working on simplifying and would like to remove all the connections and leave the solenoids in. The wire on the solenoid with the single wire fell off as well.

Also, I have a Mallory pump with a Holley pressure reg. I have set it to 4.5 psi. Is that good?
Thanks

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

The float bowl vent solenoid can be defeated. Just remove the three screws, pull the solenoid out and remove the steel core/rod with nylon (plastic looking) plunger on the end. The install solenoid.

The other solenoid on the other side of the carb can be left disconnected but don't remove its needle valve.

2.5psi is what all Nikkis prefer. If you read something that said otherwise, throw it in the trash and set your fpr to 2.5psi.

350xfire

iTrader: (1)

Cool thanks. I have it set for 4.5 right now, will drop to 2.5. Got the engine to start momentarily (about 2-3 seconds) then it died and could hear it trying to start but couldn't get it to. After letting it sit for about 10-15 minutes, tried again and it really tried but didn't run for any significant time.

Are there any adjustments I should be playing with?

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

At 4.5 psi its probably flooded. Do the de-flood procedure and get the FPR set down to
2.5. Then retry starting it up.

Did you just get the car and trying to get it running or was it running before and now
it doesn't? Whats the history here.

project7s

iTrader: (5)

Yeah with that high of fuel psi look down the barrels of the carb and you'll probably see gas dripping down the barrels flooding it like mentioned above.
After you lower the psi turn the fuel pump on and look down the carb and make sure there's no drips of gas before even trying to start the car.

350xfire

iTrader: (1)

Carb just rebuilt on a car that sat 4 years. I don't even know if it runs at this point but it did try to start... I'll lower the psi and see what happens tonight.

If I was doing it over again, I would have had the fuel tank fixed, then try to start, then start rebuilding stuff... I just got too excited and went crazy repairing and rebuilding stuff before checking to see if it started first.

Thanks

350xfire

iTrader: (1)

So I lowered the pressure to 2.5, tried to starts and it's not even trying. I am however getting a bit of smoke and some popping as if it is igniting... Any help would be appreciated. Is there any adjustment I need to try?
Thanks

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Sounds flooded. Spark plugs are wet.

350xfire

iTrader: (1)

Took spark plugs off and cleaned last night. I also realized my crank case ventilation was connected wrong based on the rat's nest removal procedure.

Will try again tonight...

350xfire

iTrader: (1)

Tried again without success... Guess I'll check compression and spark...

350xfire

iTrader: (1)

So just did compression test and it's a bummer. 70 psi front and almost 0 on back.

7aull

iTrader: (2)

Throw some SEAFOAM in thru the carb (and thus into the block) and dry (!!no ignition) crank it a few times to spread it out in there and let the seafoam sit a day or 2 in there. This stuff loves to eat carbon, and can free up sticky apex seals that may just be stuck/compressed from storage, resulting in poor compression. Worth a shot. Sorry for the bad news!

Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

350xfire

iTrader: (1)

Gonna take the opportunity to drop the engine out and rebuild... Now I can port it! Hopefully all the internals are reusable. I would hate to spend a bunch of money on this.
Thanks