dbragg

iTrader: (7)

I agree. Waffles > X's, but to each their own. I like the LE waffles, or painted stock waffles, with a gold center and silver lip. I made a gold set years ago for my GSL, but never ran them, and now all of my RX7s are 5x114.3 or 4x114.3....oh well.

WankelSP

Do you guys know of the rotor shaped rim? What year did those go on?

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

There have been pictures around once in a while.

I believe they were an aftermarket option, as they do not appear on any of the official parts lists as far as I'm aware.

WankelSP

This thread converted to a rim thead, lol

Redliner223

iTrader: (6)

The "rotor rim" only came on a special edition series 1 Rx7 and are very rare to find. If you're going to hunt down a set, I wish you luck.

WankelSP

I have a friend that owns "the rotor rim", but im not particular fond of it. But it is an interesting rim design.

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

Also be warned as we have also seen photos of knock-off versions of these on the forum.

Rotary-MG

iTrader: (1)

I have 205 Sumitomos on the same stock rims. But unless I have the air pressure topped off, I experience what feels like a "rolling in" of the sidewalls. These stock wheels were only ment to take up to 185's, am I correct? The sidewalls of the 205's seems to bulge out to me. I can't image how 215's would feel like in the corners if you have this same issue.

I have the RB suspension package all around, and still have the watts link. I keep thinking it's the sidewall of the tires, but maybe a panhard bar will help? It's a squishing not so nice feeling around hard cornering.

I never encountered this issue back with the 185 tires.

I have a mostly stock '85 GS with GSL rear.

Rotary-MG

iTrader: (1)

oh btw, with the GSL rear. Since you're adding disc brakes to a system that is balanced for a drum rear, you may encounter the rears locking up before the fronts. ASK ME HOW I KNOW...

Changing the proportioning valve may also require changing the brake master and lines if the fittings don't match up between the models. I haven't confirmed this. It is still on my list of to do's.

WankelSP

I've experienced that "rolling" feel also. Why is that?

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

The 205's do belly out just a bit... but then, so did the stock size radials in 70-series.

Tread's still narrower than the rim gap, when seen in cross-section.

Rotary-MG

iTrader: (1)

My theory is that we're stuffing too much tire in too little wheel.
It's time to admit that we need a wider wheel to better support the wider tread.

WankelSP

That sounds like it. So if you want performance, get a bigger/wider rim. If you want style, suck it up with "roll" effect. Lol

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

Soft side walls. A real performance tire in that size will have much stiffer side walls.
The Sumo's were never really a performance tire. They just came in the 205 size we
liked and were dirt cheap and performed adequately, even at autocross. So
everyone used them.

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

Same is true with the Futura/Cooper (same maker, different nameplates) tires; they don't even have a high-speed rating. But they were the only RWL 60-series tires in 13-inch that I could find anywhere.

They've proven to be acceptable dry-performance "spirited driving" tires if driven within their envelope. They are softer in the sidewall by far compared to the tires I run on the Z... but they also cost about 1/4 as much, too.

Sadly, no longer available.

Not strictly true; depends in part on what kind of performance you are looking for, & there are limits.

Past a certain point defined by the suspension design, wider rims & tires reduce handling performance unless you're ready to make extensive modifications to the suspension geometry and steering. You also pay for the larger contact patch in higher rolling resistance and thus required horsepower.

Not to mention the body fitment issues.

dream36realms

iTrader: (4)

well I guess I can add insite here. I also have an early S model 79. but mine came with a 5 speed and the ultra rare almex wheels (which were the best looking stock ones available).

When you switch to the rear disks you WILL need to replace the master cylinder and you can't find prop valves either. so you will most likely be getting an adjustible unit like I did. try your best to save the lines though even though they have the wrong fittings because a $2 fitting is a hell of alot easier than replacing all the lines like I did. you will need new lines from master to prop and a new rear axle line as well.

hope that helps.

Kentetsu

I ran about 38 psi for street driving, and up to 50 psi for Autocrossing. Lower pressures will definitely result in rolling of the sidewalls.

Also, good swaybars help a lot with that squishy rolling feeling.



.

Kentetsu

I swapped a GSL rear into my '85 GS, but didn't replace the master cylinder or the proportioning valve. Seems very well balanced. Might be different with different model years though...

Rotary-MG

iTrader: (1)

If I'm still alive after the sevenstock track event at the end of the month, I'll let you know how she does. Mines an '85 GS with GSL rear as well.

WankelSP

I also have the GSL rear end. The whole assembly. Im looking forward to putting it on but also concerned cause I do have the 4 sp manual tranny. Im looking now in getting the 5sp now.

WankelSP

You run 38psi? And whats the size of tires again?